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Help! Repairing water damaged PCB from Massage chair.
- Thread starter Jonawald
- Start date
Well,
It brings us to the absolute conclusion that the Controller IC is partially Bad .
You should contact the manufacture and enquire about replacing it .
There may be 2 options;
1.They send you the file to be burned in a new PIC18F452 IC.
that can potentially be the cheapest way,most firms won't charge a thing for
such a file,you will need to buy an empty IC and burn it.
2.They send you a burned IC(simplest way but more expansive).
We can go on debugging the board,
but I think you should find out if the IC replacement is economical for you.
Actually,
thinking about it it is possible to create a bypass for the non working remote-controller functions...as a last resort.
As for the non-clicking relay 1.
Do like that:
check according to the pic below
1.With the IC out of the socket and no "jumpers" from 5v to activate the relays:
Trs collector to emitter voltage is about 17V.
2.Now use the "jumper" to activate the relay:
Trs Collector to Emitter voltage is less than 0.5V
Trs Base to Emitter voltage is about 0.8V
It brings us to the absolute conclusion that the Controller IC is partially Bad .
You should contact the manufacture and enquire about replacing it .
There may be 2 options;
1.They send you the file to be burned in a new PIC18F452 IC.
that can potentially be the cheapest way,most firms won't charge a thing for
such a file,you will need to buy an empty IC and burn it.
2.They send you a burned IC(simplest way but more expansive).
We can go on debugging the board,
but I think you should find out if the IC replacement is economical for you.
Actually,
thinking about it it is possible to create a bypass for the non working remote-controller functions...as a last resort.
As for the non-clicking relay 1.
Do like that:
check according to the pic below
1.With the IC out of the socket and no "jumpers" from 5v to activate the relays:
Trs collector to emitter voltage is about 17V.
2.Now use the "jumper" to activate the relay:
Trs Collector to Emitter voltage is less than 0.5V
Trs Base to Emitter voltage is about 0.8V
I will try to get a hold of Cozzia by phone soon, but I am waiting for the holidays to be over and people to get back to work before I do. I thought of another option that may work. Is it possible to read the data off this IC? and burn it to a new one? I have a programmer that could work for that if it is possible. Extensive junk drawer. I got a bunch of stuff from a friend who used to build PCBs for farm equipment. I got is programmer and software. I also got some ICs that are exactly the same size and pin count as the one we are working with here. I doubt the ICs will be of any help after doing a quick search for their data sheet though. The programmer though... Not sure. I know that it is possible to read the programs of some of these IC if they have not been locked by the original manufacturer.
It is possible to duplicate the Ic as you say, if:
1. Lock Code Protection isn't used(not very likely)
2. The "burning related" pins function properly.
3. You have the the correct burner/programmer.
Better get the answers from Cozzia first.
Have you tested the relay 1 circuit ,as per reply #162?
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Ok I got that relay clicking with a jumper from 11 to 10 now. It turned out to be a fault transistor. Now I can make all relays click by jumping to their leads from Pin 11 at the IC socket.
.It is Darlington Tr. TP122.
I assume it is getting hot with nothing connected to the vibration socket,is this so?
Check like this(empty white socket!):
1.No power, ohm test between the Yellow markings in the photo.
2.With power, Voltages on the transistor relative to GND as shown(B,C,E)-3 measurements.
What do we get?
what do we get on another(cold )Tr. ?
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There is another issue on the main board.
The wire you have used is too thin wire,should use much thicker.
Actuality,the solder wick braid can be very good for this(if it's width is less of the print trace).
You don't need to patch the all trace just the broken parts.
see in the pic,the yellow patches for example.
The wire you have used is too thin wire,should use much thicker.
Actuality,the solder wick braid can be very good for this(if it's width is less of the print trace).
You don't need to patch the all trace just the broken parts.
see in the pic,the yellow patches for example.
Ok. I fixed those traces with braid. Looks much better. I also checked deeper into the issue I pointed out in post 168. When I compared the pins with diode test I noticed that it was open between ground and emitter and the others were not. So I took out that transistor. I will replace it when I sit down here next.
What about post 150? The circuit that runs the massage head width adjustment and the actual massage head? There seems to be a problem there.
What about post 150? The circuit that runs the massage head width adjustment and the actual massage head? There seems to be a problem there.
About #150.
A word of caution:
The area "beyond" the opto-isolation devices is High voltage and floating in regard to the other circuit GND!
You should be very careful measuring voltages there.
Do them on the DCV(never use the DCmV ).
Measurements are not related to GND .
So, each one as to be very explicit about the 2 measurement points.
0.Connect the mains and control boards
(without the IC controller in the socket)
1.In order for that part to work you need CN6 be plugged in(yellow)
2.Measure the DC voltages on the Mosfets as indicated
(2 measurements red-black).
what do we get?
3.What are the part numbers of the Black(need that for the other parts of the board) and the White opto-devices ?
A word of caution:
The area "beyond" the opto-isolation devices is High voltage and floating in regard to the other circuit GND!
You should be very careful measuring voltages there.
Do them on the DCV(never use the DCmV ).
Measurements are not related to GND .
So, each one as to be very explicit about the 2 measurement points.
0.Connect the mains and control boards
(without the IC controller in the socket)
1.In order for that part to work you need CN6 be plugged in(yellow)
2.Measure the DC voltages on the Mosfets as indicated
(2 measurements red-black).
what do we get?
3.What are the part numbers of the Black(need that for the other parts of the board) and the White opto-devices ?
Regarding #172:
11.8V is fine there is a voltage regulator I missed(yellow in the pic below),
is it a 7812?
The voltage polarity you measured should actually be reverse polarity,is this so(yellow marks)?
To check the TL251 we need to connect the controller board without the IC in the socket.
1.First check the DCV on con115 as shown(2 points).
if you get anything other than 0 volts stop here !
2.Measure the voltages as shown on the TLP251 pins.
What do we get
3.EDIT: Don't do anything here,test #3 canceled !!!
The IC is needed for this test, most probably it used used as a PWM controller.
4. Do a diode test ,no power ,between the TLP251 pins 2 and 3 (2 is anode).
what do we get?
11.8V is fine there is a voltage regulator I missed(yellow in the pic below),
is it a 7812?
The voltage polarity you measured should actually be reverse polarity,is this so(yellow marks)?
To check the TL251 we need to connect the controller board without the IC in the socket.
1.First check the DCV on con115 as shown(2 points).
if you get anything other than 0 volts stop here !
2.Measure the voltages as shown on the TLP251 pins.
What do we get
3.EDIT: Don't do anything here,test #3 canceled !!!
The IC is needed for this test, most probably it used used as a PWM controller.
4. Do a diode test ,no power ,between the TLP251 pins 2 and 3 (2 is anode).
what do we get?
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Yes Edit.... see below. Maybe not.
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I don't know that I was checking earlier or how I got those results. But Red on 3 black on 2 0L on both. The other way around I get 1.5V. Perhaps Bluejets guessed right. I might have had it on ohms. Dumb mistake.
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