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Help! Repairing water damaged PCB from Massage chair.
- Thread starter Jonawald
- Start date
1: 31.78KΩ 2: 94KΩ 3: 3.1MΩ 4: open
O.k.
So basically the same as in the board ,with #4 open(O.L) not 0 ohm.
Don't sure what to make of the differences between the pins ohm measurements now.
please measure IC pin 2-6, ohm test to gnd ,what do you get?
I would do an ohm test at the socket with the IC out ,like that:
Board GND connected to pins 12, 31
Board 5V connected to pins 11, 32
Also clean the socket and IC.
It is bed time for me,can continue tomorrow.
2:12.4MΩ
3: 12.4
4: 11.10
5: 11.7
6: 12.6
I am not 100% sure what you mean with Board GND to pins 12/13 or with 5V connected to pins 11,32 but I will make a guess and post the results. I will probably be available same time tomorrow. 3:00--6:00 PM for me.
GND to 31 is 0.4Ω
GND to 12 is 0.4Ω
11 to 5V .3Ω
32 is same
3: 12.4
4: 11.10
5: 11.7
6: 12.6
I am not 100% sure what you mean with Board GND to pins 12/13 or with 5V connected to pins 11,32 but I will make a guess and post the results. I will probably be available same time tomorrow. 3:00--6:00 PM for me.
GND to 31 is 0.4Ω
GND to 12 is 0.4Ω
11 to 5V .3Ω
32 is same
Cleaning the IC pins should be straightforward but the ic socket almost impossible.
Just a tip....you may (with the help of a second set of hands) be able to replace the pins one by one.
Shown in the pics below I have taken a standard 8 pin socket and with the help of a pin, levered out the pin. This could then be refitted to your socket base.
Showed you this idea as removing a complete socket of this size is near impossible without specialised gear.
I'd be cleaning the ic pins first and then giving the socket a squirt of crc and using an old useless ic (does not have to be anything special ....wouldn't even have to be the same number of pins)
push it in and out of the existing socket to try to get rid of the muck.(just an idea)
Just a tip....you may (with the help of a second set of hands) be able to replace the pins one by one.
Shown in the pics below I have taken a standard 8 pin socket and with the help of a pin, levered out the pin. This could then be refitted to your socket base.
Showed you this idea as removing a complete socket of this size is near impossible without specialised gear.
I'd be cleaning the ic pins first and then giving the socket a squirt of crc and using an old useless ic (does not have to be anything special ....wouldn't even have to be the same number of pins)
push it in and out of the existing socket to try to get rid of the muck.(just an idea)
Attachments
I wouldn't try to change the Socket (all of it or some pins ) yet,
just clean it the best you can.
The main issue is deciding if the IC is Bad or good.
I do think it is Bad, but not yet 100% sure.
You say it is partly working - display is changing when you press something,was this this correct?
If it is Bad ,getting another IC and replacing it isn't very simple (probably not cheap either).
Contact the manufacture and enquire about the IC availability and price,that is of a "burned"/programmed IC (there may be a possibility to get the file to be burned in an "empty" IC).
For that they should be able to identify the model and board exactly...
For now I would do the following:
1. Clean the IC and socket the best you can.
2. Carefully insert the IC back into the socket, and watch out for the correct
pin #1 marking!
3. Connect the boards together and power-up.
4. On the IC Check DCV between pins 11 and 12 ,and between 32 and 31
(do that directly on the IC pins,not at the board)
5. Watch to see if you can change the display
-that is an indication that the IC is working ,at least partially.
6. Measure the voltages directly on the IC pins (again not at the board)
relative to GND.
Pins 5 to 10( a total of 6 pins) while trying "to make the relays click" using
the remote or what ever button there is on the chair for that thing
(i.e. Back and Leg).
note pins 5 and 6 are also part of Back/Leg activation .
Let us know what are the results you find.
Last edited:
I wouldn't try to change the Socket (all of it or some pins ) yet,
just clean it the best you can.
The main issue is deciding if the IC is Bad or good.
I do think it is Bad, but not yet 100% sure.
You say it is partly working - display is changing when you press something,was this this correct?
If it is Bad ,getting another IC and replacing it isn't very simple (probably not cheap either).
Contact the manufacture and enquire about the IC availability and price,that is of a "burned"/programmed IC (there may be a possibility to get the file to be burned in an "empty" IC).
For that they should be able to identify the model and board exactly...
For now I would do the following:
1. Clean the IC and socket the best you can.
2. Carefully insert the IC back into the socket, and watch out for the correct
pin #1 marking!
3. Connect the boards together and power-up.
4. On the IC Check DCV between pins 11 and 12 ,and between 32 and 31
(do that directly on the IC pins,not at the board)
5. Watch to see if you can change the display
-that is an indication that the IC is working ,at least partially.
6. Measure the voltages directly on the IC pins (again not at the board)
relative to GND.
Pins 5 to 10( a total of 6 pins) while trying "to make the relays click" using
the remote or what ever button there is on the chair for that thing
(i.e. Back and Leg).
note
Let us know what are the results you find.
Ok. I will do all these steps, but not sure how much time I will end up having today. Looks like it's shaping up to be more busy than I thought.
In the mean time, I did some tests on the Mains board on the two circuits that I never got going properly. Here are the results. Not sure if my way to test the K1358 is the best way though. But here are the numbers. Please advise. The Volts on the other end are what seems reall
y out to me.
y out to me.o.k,all power pins of the IC are fine.
You haven't completed all the tests on post # 145 ,please do(item 6).
The remote is connected directly to Rx,TX pins of the IC.
(operating in a serial link).
Are there any buttons on the remote that function properly?
Can you please post a clear photo of the remote and show which buttons function.
Also check the voltages on CN31(relative to it's GND, remote plug out)-3 measurements.
As for your post #150.
I wouldn't start a "new front" yet.
Let's try to get a final conclusion on the one we already have.
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Ok. To continue this list of measurements
5. The display changes with the press of the buttons. I will try to take a video of the display in action and what it does.
Pins 9-5 display no change when I activate Back/Leg.
Pin 6 has 5.5 VDC Back/Leg activated or not No cange
Pin 5 has 1 V
Attachments
Correction,
should check voltages on pins 4 and 6 (5 is not connected),
what do we get?
Please check voltages on CN31 as well.
What about
1.Are there any buttons on the remote that function properly(activate something on the unit)?
2.Please check voltages on CN31 (relative to it's GND, remote plug out)-3 measurements.
3.Please connect the remote plug and check voltages on CN31
pins 2 and 3 without pressing and with pressing a button on the remote-like Back/Leg etc.
what do we get?
1.Are there any buttons on the remote that function properly(activate something on the unit)?
2.Please check voltages on CN31 (relative to it's GND, remote plug out)-3 measurements.
3.Please connect the remote plug and check voltages on CN31
pins 2 and 3 without pressing and with pressing a button on the remote-like Back/Leg etc.
what do we get?
I am uploading a video of remote to utube. I will share a link here in a minute or so. By now I am convinced that the remote has it's own IC and program displayed on screen is generated by the remote itself. It is just showing what signal it is sending out.
I just thought of something. I have been saying that the air bag massage works. I just realized that the air bag massage starts as soon as the chair is powered up. Now I will go and plug board back into chair and see if I can get the remote to change any of the airbag or vibrate settings by pushing buttons or if they are just coming on with power to the board.
Ok after bringing the board to the chair and plugging in the solenoids, vibrators and air pump. I know now that I definitely can affect the board with the remote. The air bag massage turns on automatically as soon as the chair is booted up and finished chirping. I think the chirping might be the chair trying to bring the back and legs to neutral position.
I can change the mode of the airbags. I can change what type of massage they give and they will respond accordingly. I can also use the remote to turn off the air bag massage.
At the same time. I also believe that the airbag massage is almost completely controlled by a separate IC on the board. I will circle the area in a picture here.
The vibrate massage didn't work but I now know why. There is a solder link that I took out meaning to fix it ans missed it when I came back to replace the solder. I am sure they work too.
I can change the mode of the airbags. I can change what type of massage they give and they will respond accordingly. I can also use the remote to turn off the air bag massage.
At the same time. I also believe that the airbag massage is almost completely controlled by a separate IC on the board. I will circle the area in a picture here.
The vibrate massage didn't work but I now know why. There is a solder link that I took out meaning to fix it ans missed it when I came back to replace the solder. I am sure they work too.
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The remote is connected only to the controller IC (pins 2,3 of CN31).
We don't know what "HW/SW protocol" is implemented between them.
But everything on the board is control by the controller (with "help" from other devices).
Try this:
1.Remove the Controller IC from the socket(without power).
2.power up(with remote ) and try activating the air bags-you will have no control!
watch if the remote functions with it's beeps etc.
3.In this instance(IC out of socket) we can check the un-clicking relays properly:
Use a solid wire(or a low resistance resistor say up to 100 ohm).
and under power connect one side to 5v (pin11),with the other one at a time, touch each of the IC pins 7,8,9,10 on the IC sockets (count well !)
This should cause the relays to click one at a time.
I'll be out for the next 4 hours,
Good luck and Happy new year
The remote is connected only to the controller IC (pins 2,3 of CN31).
We don't know what "HW/SW protocol" is implemented between them.
But everything on the board is control by the controller (with "help" from other devices).
Try this:
1.Remove the Controller IC from the socket(without power).
2.power up(with remote ) and try activating the air bags-you will have no control!
watch if the remote functions with it's beeps etc.
3.In this instance(IC out of socket) we can check the un-clicking relays properly:
Use a solid wire(or a low resistance resistor say up to 100 ohm).
and under power connect one side to 5v (pin11),with the other one at a time, touch each of the IC pins 7,8,9,10 on the IC sockets (count well !)
This should cause the relays to click one at a time.
I'll be out for the next 4 hours,
Good luck and Happy new year
View attachment 24125[/QUOT
I was able to make relay 2,3,4 click by jumping pin 11 to their respective pins. Not 1.
When I powered up the board without the control IC. The remote completely lit up. All the icons were on and the backlight. But I don't think it was really on. The buttons did nothing and no icons ever went off.
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