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Help! Repairing water damaged PCB from Massage chair.

[QUOTE="dorke, post: 102_0534.JPG

What did you solder that caused the unit to stop working?
Can you show it on the board?

[/QUOTE]
 
I would have still pulled the lot off the board and started a fresh..
Taking components off a board doesn't destroy it if you are careful. replacing one component is no different to ten or twenty..or 500.
Your component leads are rusty, they need replacing..
My only advice is to buy a flux stick. That is quite obvious from your pictures.
EDIT: I agree with dorke about the solder sucker, it can and does lift pads. Sometimes..
Martin
 
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For your inspection and approval. :) The wick BTW would not begin to pick up solder. I had to go back to my trusty sucker. I used .075" fine braid super wick. MG chemicals. It is easier to work with a nice clean board. I guess I should have used solvent on the chair board before I began soldering on it. As I said, I have gotten better over the last few days. Watching the videos helped me chose a proper temperature setting for what I was doing and showed me what tips to use for which job. Also learned the importance of limiting the amount of eat to use.
 

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I would have still pulled the lot off the board and started a fresh..
Taking components off a board doesn't destroy it if you are careful. replacing one component is no different to ten or twenty..or 500.
Your component leads are rusty, they need replacing..
My only advice is to buy a flux stick. That is quite obvious from your pictures.
EDIT: I agree with dorke about the solder sucker, it can and does lift pads. Sometimes..
Martin

The solder I use is solder core ... It works well with clean surfaces.
 
The soldering looks much better.:)
It looks clean and seems shiny.

But still too much solder used.
You should get the "mount Fuji silhouette"

Using liquid soldering flux helps a lot if the PCB isn't clean.

What is the diameter of the solder you use?
How did you clean the soldering?


102_0548.JPG
 
is Rubbing alcohol an ok solvent? I don't have anything else handy. That and an old toothbrush and a dental pick used gently is how I have been cleaning things.
 
I can't seem to get the solder to have the proper profile on the leads. I will have to either try a smaller tip, less heat or thinner solder. I am going to Winnipeg on Monday. I guess I will have to put together a shopping list and get what I need to do a proper job.

It would be helpful if before that I could also determine if there are any components I need to get replacements for before Monday.
 
The Solder is somewhere around 3/16 or 1mm ish. Took it off a larger roll I have in school.

O.K the solder diameter is too large for this job.
This is why you can't get the proper profile and you have too much solder.
you should use smaller diameter 0.6mm would be fine.
Get your solder from a good firm like kester (worth every penny ,no cheap Chinese stuff it is mostly rubbish and the results are not good at all).

What kind of tip and temp. are you using?
show a pic please.

I work like this:
Tip is a slightly pointed chisel one (about 2.5mm).
Temp. , around 330C

On your shopping list
you should have liquid flux or pen(kester again)
And solder wick(braid) 3mm.

point.jpg
 
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[QUOTE="dorke, post: View attachment 23941

What did you solder that caused the unit to stop working?
Can you show it on the board?
[/QUOTE]

What components are on the other side?
Can you show on a pic,and what is written on them.

On this pic below (from post #40) , bottom right you wrote "ALL work".
Is this before or after the above soldering incident?
If it is after ,then most probably the Controller IC is fine...;)

102_0543.JPG
 
O.K the solder diameter is too large for this job.
This is why you can't get the proper profile and you have too much solder.
you should use smaller diameter 0.6mm would be fine.
Get your solder from a good firm like kester (worth every penny ,no cheap Chinese stuff it is mostly rubbish and the results are not good at all).

What kind of tip and temp. are you using?
show a pic please.

I work like this:
Tip is a slightly pointed chisel one (about 2.5mm).
Temp. , around 330C

On your shopping list
you should have liquid flux or pen(kester again)
And solder wick(braid) 3mm.

View attachment 23960

Here is my tip and the solder wick I tried. The tip seems to be the same as the one pictured. If solder wick all works like this stuff does, I am not interested in using it. From what I have seen in the videos it seems to actually pick up solder. This stuff does not .
 

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What components are on the other side?
Can you show on a pic,and what is written on them.

On this pic below (from post #40) , bottom right you wrote "ALL work".
Is this before or after the above soldering incident?
If it is after ,then most probably the Controller IC is fine...;)

View attachment 23961[/QUOTE]

They worked perfectly after. Also the remote works well too. The digital display lights up and it shows what massage is selected with active icons. It also chirps when I push recline or restore. I think the IC is at least partially fine.
 
Here is my tip and the solder wick I tried. The tip seems to be the same as the one pictured. If solder wick all works like this stuff does, I am not interested in using it. From what I have seen in the videos it seems to actually pick up solder. This stuff does not .


MG chemi is making good products(unless it is a Chinese fake).
I guess you didn't use it properly.
The way I do it is wet the iron tip with a little solder and sometimes add flux to the wick if needed.
Look at this (mute ) video for how to.

So, were do we stand with the boards?

You didn't answer this question regarding your post #41:
What components are on the other side?
Can you show on a pic?
What is written on the devices.
 
MG chemi is making good products(unless it is a Chinese fake).
I guess you didn't use it properly.
The way I do it is wet the iron tip with a little solder and sometimes add flux to the wick if needed.
Look at this (mute ) video for how to.

So, were do we stand with the boards?

You didn't answer this question regarding your post #41:
What components are on the other side?
Can you show on a pic?
What is written on the devices.

I did not quite understand what the question meant by the other side. The other side of the board?

Or the components still on the chair? I will take pictures of all the components on the chair the next chance I get. Might not happen till tomorrow afternoon. Christmas evening and all. Big evening and morning with Family.

BTW. I got a response from Cozzia. They want pictures so that they can determine the model. Perhaps we will have a service manual to work with soon.
 
Yes the other side of the board (CS- Component Side).
A service manual will be very helpful.

Have a good one:)
 
The boys got me working yesterday afternoon and today. This half-behinded is finally kicking in enough for us to get out outdoor rink ready. I've been getting some fresh and rubber between the posts. Feels good to be tired after a game.
 
Ok for some pictures of the component side of the chair. Strangely I could not find markings on any of the motors. Hard to say what's going on.


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PC250010.JPGPC250009.JPGPC250011.JPGPC250012.JPG
 

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Here are three additional pictures. 1. Solenoid group that controls airbag massage. 2. Air pump. (No markings visible top side) 3. Heat unit.

There is still a little bit of crud under there from when they were flooded. Water was so low it didn't touch the pump or solenoids. PC250014.JPGPC250015.JPGPC250016.JPG
 
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