Boosting the Amper and altering the frequency

[bertus]

Hello,

I most times use a paint-like ( KolourPaint on linux, http://www.kolourpaint.org/screenshots.html ) program to draw my schematics.
I use the following template and use copy - paste for placing the parts:

Bertus

 

[Maxouishere]

I meant the 5 V from the arduino.
You can also use the 12 V from the battery, but then you need to increase the value for R2 (post #77) by a factor of 12/5 = 2.4 to keep the current the same.

Thanks. Yesterday I have studied series-parallel and shortcut circuits. I have learnt a method by using letters. And I draw this below schematic on a web-based simulation software, but It says 18 bad connections. Does It look OK?

Also, this is the final schematic of the circuit now:

I used circuitlab for the drawings here. I also use LTSPICE from time to time.

I most times use a paint-like ( KolourPaint on linux, http://www.kolourpaint.org/screenshots.html ) program to draw my schematics.
I use the following template and use copy - paste for placing the parts:

Thank you both for the recommendations.

 

[Maxouishere]

@Harald Kapp I think I figured out the problem with the frames. Please let me know If the logic is possible. I will explain it in 2 schematics. In the first one there will be no current flow as you pointed out.

BUT If there are bees on it and they touch the red and black wires at the same time, as in schematic below, wouldn't they get shocked? And I think this might help with the heating, preventing current flow when not touching. + It also looks parallel.
I indicated their touch with green lines on 2nd schematic.

 

[HANKMARS]

Hello,

I most times use a paint-like ( KolourPaint on linux, http://www.kolourpaint.org/screenshots.html ) program to draw my schematics.
I use the following template and use copy - paste for placing the parts:
View attachment 55282
Bertus

I have installed "Tiny Cad" on my computer but have not yet taken the time to weed thru its functions. I'll try to use it to show a recent audio amp I constructed a give a critique. Electronic design CAD is not something I have used before, so if I can learn it readily, I'm sure others can, too.

 

[Harald Kapp]

wouldn't they get shocked?

Possibly. I don't know whether 24 V is enough to shock a bee. Nor would I know how much resistance a bee presents to the circuit. Definitely nota short circuit, so current will be less than you expect.

 

[Maxouishere]

Definitely nota short circuit, so current will be less than you expect.

Can you estimate how low would it be? They basicly will swarm all over the frame once a single drop of venom is dropped. I will try the setup on Tuesday or Wednesday (depending on the weather) and will post the results.

What should be the 138Ω resistance's W value? I have 138Ω ~ 2W.
(5V/138Ω = 0.036A ; P = 0.036^2*138 = 0.18W looks OK, I guess.)

If you see any error on the final schematic please let me know:

 

[Harald Kapp]

Can you estimate how low would it be?

Sorry, no. I have not the slightest idea.

5V/138Ω = 0.036A ; P = 0.036^2*138 = 0.18W looks OK, I guess.

O.K. It will be even less du eto the B-E voltage drops on the transistors.

 

[HANKMARS]

Can you estimate how low would it be? They basicly will swarm all over the frame once a single drop of venom is dropped. I will try the setup on Tuesday or Wednesday (depending on the weather) and will post the results.

What should be the 138Ω resistance's W value? I have 138Ω ~ 2W.
(5V/138Ω = 0.036A ; P = 0.036^2*138 = 0.18W looks OK, I guess.)

If you see any error on the final schematic please let me know:

Is the venom a pheromone drawn from a queen?

 

[Maxouishere]

Is the venom a pheromone drawn from a queen?

From every single one of them except the queen.
They will try to sting the glass because of the electrical shock and drop the venom on it.

@Harald Kapp I have stabled the system in a plastic box and measured the voltage and amps only on 1 resistance wire (0.08A - 28.5V) as in schematic below. Because I haven't build the terminals for connecting the + and - yet and I want to try as in post #83 first.
(Also Frame_1 red wire: 0.17A and 28.5V)

At below schematic it is connected as parallel, where R_eq = 46 Ω. In that case, can I assume the current on the 309Ω wire (i_9) would be around 0.6A and If I want to decrease this current, can I do it with a potentiometer? I feel like this assumption is wrong because i_1 on schematic below would be more than 1A in that case.



Tomorrow I will try as in the first schematic which will require lots of bees to touch + and - at the same time and then later I am planning to try as in 2nd schematic.

 

[Harald Kapp]

can I do it with a potentiometer?

No, potentiometers are niot made for that high current.

 

[Maxouishere]

No, potentiometers are niot made for that high current.

Hello. I have tested it on the hive. I think I need less current. ( I probably need those thick copper resistors.) I want to see the current on each frame before getting a resistor conencted. Can I connect one of these (English schematic is at the middle of the page) on each frame?

Also I want to use pwm on my arduino code and try rectangular, triangular and sin wave signals with adjustable frequency. So the mean voltage on pin_8 of arduino which is connected to bc107 will vary from 2V to 5V, instead of constant 5V when it is on. Would this be a problem for the transistor or for the overall setup?

 

[Maxouishere]

I couldn't make them sting. I tried different voltages hence different currents, It does not work. I will do more research.

 

[Maxouishere]

@Harald Kapp My Arduino UNO is dead, unfortunately. Can I use this same setup on Arduino Mega?

 

[Harald Kapp]

of course you can.

 

[Maxouishere]

of course you can.

Thanks I asked because I thought there might be different pin current.

My BD135 is also dead. (It died before Arduino.) I measured arduino's pin_8's voltage as 6V whereas it should be 5V. This might be the cause of BD135's failure or just a faulty unit?

 

[Harald Kapp]

It is possible that you accidentally applied a voltage > 5 V to the output pin of the Arduino, thus destroying the Arduino. The transistor could be dead due to overcurrent that occurred when you experimented with your setup.
Is the Arduino completely dead or only the output pin you used? If the Arduino per se is still working, you can simply use another output pin.

 

[Maxouishere]

Is the Arduino completely dead or only the output pin you used? If the Arduino per se is still working, you can simply use another output pin.

I revived the Arduino by using another arduino to upload the bootloader.

The transistor could be dead due to overcurrent that occurred when you experimented with your setup.

First day I tried 29V and it didn't work for me. When I get home I measured the voltage accross the grid. It was jumping 0-29-0-29... as I wanted. Then I decreased the voltage by turning the pin on voltage regulator. Measured again, no problem 0-20-0-20... But the very next day on the field, I measured again, It was 12.5-7-12.5-7... My test on the 2nd try wasn't valid because of this. I couldn't replace the transistor just then because I hadn't brought any spare BD135 with me. Should I change R1 value on your solution (post #69) before I change the output voltage by turning the pin on voltage regulator?

If I use 2n2222 or 2n2222a instead of BC107, should I replace it without changing resistors' values? This wasnt the dead transistor. I ask this because I couldn't find spare BC107s on the web.

Tomorrow is the day for the 3rd try. I will connect the grid parallel this time, instead of leaving it open loop.

 

[bertus]

Hello,

The gain of the 2N2222 is a bit less as the BC107.
The collector current of the 2N2222 is much higher as the BC107.
It would likely be no problem to use the 2N2222.
I have attached a zip-file with a transistor table with some basic parameters.

Bertus

 

[Maxouishere]

This time bd135 is dead again (I think it started to melt). I adjusted the voltage regulator to 29V. It run 75min without any issue. I re-run the system on another unit. This time gray smoke came out from BD135 after 5min. I don't understand what would be the problem. (I measure 5.5V on Arduino's output pins without conencting anything.)

 

[Harald Kapp]

You may cretae short circuits (or may have created short circuits) between the "+" and"-" wires in your grid somewhere. place a series resistor between the collector of the BD135 and the grid, e.g. 100 Ω to protect the transistor from overcurrent. Also check your wiring and make sure the "+" and "-" wires do not touch.