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Boosting the Amper and altering the frequency
- Thread starter Maxouishere
- Start date
It is also stated:
If you want to be on the safe side, add a zener diode (4.7 V) between the battery and Vin of the Arduino (Arduino only, not the external voltage regulator!).
You use only 1 pin, so I see no issue here.
If you want to be on the safe side, add a zener diode (4.7 V) between the battery and Vin of the Arduino (Arduino only, not the external voltage regulator!).
Thanks. I was planning to use some sensors to determine swarming, temperature, humidity, etc. Then I better use a zener diode as you said. Does it have to be 4.7V?
I found a 5.6V zener diode that looks like a regular diode: https://www.robotistan.com/56-v-zener-diyot-paketi-10-adet
And this one is 4.7V like you said but looks very different: BZX84C4V7 SMD Zener Diyot (SOT23)
https://www.robotistan.com/bzx84c4v7
Datasheet for 4.7V zener diode: https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/831598/DIOTEC/BZX84C4V7/218/1/BZX84C4V7.html
A 5.6 V zener diode may be a bit to much when the battery runs low. But you can give it a try. Note that a zener diode is used "backwards"! (cathode to battery, anode to Arduino).
There are many different types of diode cases. The looks are not important. All you need to know is where anode and cathode are. The cathode is usually marked by a ring , band or line.
The zener diode you linked is not suitable, it allows only 300 mW power dissipation You can expect the Arduino to require ~ 30 mA. Plus the current for sensors and for driving the BD135. Let us assume 100 mA in total. Across a 4.7 V zener diode this results in a power dissipation of P = 4.7 V × 0.1 A = 470 mW. You will require at least a 500 mW zener diode.
Alternatively you can use a few standard diodes (1N4001 or similar) in series. Each diode drops ~ 0,7 V, A string of 6 or 7 diodes in series will work as well (although it will look awkward compared to a single zener diode). Power dissipation is then no issue as each diode will dissipate only P = 0.7 V × 0.1 A = 70 mW. These diodes are uses in forward direction (anode to positive supply of battery, cathode to Arduino).
Thanks. I think this one is perfect for my project (1N4732A ~ 4.7V - 1W): https://www.robotsepeti.com/47v-zener-diyot
Datasheet: https://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/562541/VISHAY/1N4732A/216/1/1N4732A.html
Do you think the battery that you have approved will be sufficient enough to feed 25x of the glass-wood-resistance wire system just like the image below? (5x in each hive)
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The number of systems is not relevant as long as the current doesn't exceed the driving power of the Transistor.
In a series connection, as you show, the voltage (24 V) from the regulator will be divided among the elements. As shown with 5 elements in series each element will "see" only 25 V / 5 = 4.8 V. The current will fall to 1/5 of the current with a single element. If that is enough, the go ahead.
If, however, you need the 24 V, you need to put the elements in parallel. Now each element "sees" 24 V, but the current will rise to 5 times the current of a single element.
May I suggest that you start experimenting with the comparatively simple setup using only 1 element as discussed above before you start exploring alternatives and different setups? Make yourself acquainted with the functions of the different parts of the circuit. In my opinion it is also a good idea to buy a multimeter ( a cheap one in the $ 10 / € 10 range is sufficient). Thus you will be able to measure voltages and currents and get a better feeling what's going on. Obviously you lack the theoretical background so some measurements will help you get along better.
In a series connection, as you show, the voltage (24 V) from the regulator will be divided among the elements. As shown with 5 elements in series each element will "see" only 25 V / 5 = 4.8 V. The current will fall to 1/5 of the current with a single element. If that is enough, the go ahead.
If, however, you need the 24 V, you need to put the elements in parallel. Now each element "sees" 24 V, but the current will rise to 5 times the current of a single element.
May I suggest that you start experimenting with the comparatively simple setup using only 1 element as discussed above before you start exploring alternatives and different setups? Make yourself acquainted with the functions of the different parts of the circuit. In my opinion it is also a good idea to buy a multimeter ( a cheap one in the $ 10 / € 10 range is sufficient). Thus you will be able to measure voltages and currents and get a better feeling what's going on. Obviously you lack the theoretical background so some measurements will help you get along better.
Thank you so much for your help so far. I ordered the battery today. I will start experimenting once It arrives. (probably in 2days). Also I have a multimeter too. I bought one when I decided to make my project come alive.
Yes, unfortunately I am. But I'm reading papers related to electronics to get familiar. I am planning to read these two books:
1. Matthew Sadiku - Fundamentals of Electric Circuits
2. Stan Gibilisco - Beginner's Guide to Reading Schematics
I will post the results of the experiment. Have a good day!
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I have one more question about this battery that we talked about today: https://www.hepsiburada.com/ttec-12-volt-4-5-amper-bakimsiz-kuru-aku-p-OTKLT927336S
It is SLA battery. I read somewhere that I should put fuse in a circuit in case of SLA battery usage.
For how long It would last with full charge. I am planning to apply the voltage at least 24-36sec in 1minute. For instance, 2 sec on and 3 sec off. If It worked for 1.5 - 2 hours, It would be great.
It is SLA battery. I read somewhere that I should put fuse in a circuit in case of SLA battery usage.
For how long It would last with full charge. I am planning to apply the voltage at least 24-36sec in 1minute. For instance, 2 sec on and 3 sec off. If It worked for 1.5 - 2 hours, It would be great.
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There has been another discussion here about this very subject
The drive seems to be 1KHz AC, making the DC boost circuit unhelpful.
The drive seems to be 1KHz AC, making the DC boost circuit unhelpful.
@Maxouishere
I gather you wanted the potentiometer model for LTspice.
Please find the files attached. Edit the file names to delete the .txt bit.
I gather you wanted the potentiometer model for LTspice.
Please find the files attached. Edit the file names to delete the .txt bit.
Thank you so much!
@Harald Kapp Hello. My order has arrived yesterday. I connected everything today. 10-15 sec after the boot, voltage regulator exploded and gray smoke came out. I should have double checked. I falsely connected Ground pin to +in slot of the voltage regulator and Vin to -in slot.
I will order a new voltage regulator today.
I can't post the photos. Website says "There was a problem uploading your file.". So I will post the links:
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/929757506266353684/931116754950815804/IMG_1352.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/929757506266353684/931116753658982430/IMG_1354.jpg
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/929757506266353684/931116754099380224/IMG_1356.jpg
Resize to >= 300 kB.
The capacitor in link #1 needs a haircut.
Martin
Martin
@Harald Kapp Hi. I just tried again with the new voltage regulator. Arduino booted, I read the voltage 0 on multimeter. I remove the cables from battery then tried again. Arduino did not boot this time. There were no smoke or anything. It just stopped working. I think zener diode is burnt because I read 0V on the anode side. But no problem at cathode side of the zener diode. Also Arduino boots If I directly connect It to the battery via Vin. I will order zener diodes now.
I connected everything the same as in post #32 except I connected +in and -in of the voltage regulator correctly this time. (I added photos below.) Why do you think it burnt? This might be a side effect of what had happened yesterday (explotion of voltage regulator)?
I will also order TIP120 but I can't find one. I found TIP122. Is it OK?
BTW, zener diode was 4.7V and It was advertised as good up to 1W.
I connected everything the same as in post #32 except I connected +in and -in of the voltage regulator correctly this time. (I added photos below.) Why do you think it burnt? This might be a side effect of what had happened yesterday (explotion of voltage regulator)?
I will also order TIP120 but I can't find one. I found TIP122. Is it OK?
BTW, zener diode was 4.7V and It was advertised as good up to 1W.
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Can you post a schematic drawing of yur circuit? Hard to read from the actual setup (although your photos are good quality, this is not the issue).
1 and 2 are soldered at point 3. (I couldn't draw this. Therefore I indicated it this way.)
@Harald Kapp I think this schematic looks cleaner than above one. What do you think is wrong with it that zener diode burnt?
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