the 100W bulb lives on....

[Martin Riddle]

Bill voted down...
<http://politics.blogs.foxnews.com/2011/07/12/house-turns-out-lights-bulb-ban>

Cheers

 

[AnimalMagic]

Bill voted down...
<http://politics.blogs.foxnews.com/2011/07/12/house-turns-out-lights-bulb-ban>

Cheers

The 4 Watt bulb has been burning for over 100 years.

It has a world record for it. Carbon filament.

http://www.centennialbulb.org/

 

[Nobody]

The 4 Watt bulb has been burning for over 100 years.

It has a world record for it. Carbon filament.

http://www.centennialbulb.org/

What is its luminous efficacy? It's not hard to make a bulb last forever
if you run it cold enough. But there's not much point, given that the
increased electricity costs to get the same amount of visible light far
outweigh the savings on the bulb costs. IIRC, even normal "long life"
bulbs are a false economy in that regard (they may, however, be worthwhile
for bulbs which are awkward to change).

 

[Dirk Bruere at NeoPax]

Is there a failure of comprehension here? The measure, H.R. 2417,
Better Use of Light Bulbs Act, which would have repealed those
provisions of the Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007 which
federally ban the manufacture and sale of certain light bulbs,
*failed* to pass in the house. So the 100W bulb is scheduled for
extinction.

Good.
It will speed up LED lighting, and probably save a good few power
stations from needing to be built

 

[hamilton]

I see Home Depot is selling 60 watt LED floodlights that only consume
maybe 10 watts. They had one on display next to an incandescent, and
it was hard to tell the difference except for the heat. Still pricey
though at $47.

-Bill

Bill,

I think that is the point.

How much was the cost of the 60 Watt Flood ?

How many would you have to buy to match the life of the LED flood ?

Plus the cost of 50 Watts for the life time of the LED flood.

Work out those numbers in your area.

hamilton

 

[Rich Grise]

I see Home Depot is selling 60 watt LED floodlights that only consume
maybe 10 watts. They had one on display next to an incandescent, and
it was hard to tell the difference except for the heat. Still pricey
though at $47.

So, as the usual consequence of imperial edicts, the "little" guy who
can't afford to plunk down fifty bucks for one fucking light bulb
gets screwed.

Abolish Government!

Thanks
Rich

 

[John S]

But a decent 100W incandescent is 1620 lumens, not 1185, as I pointed out.

Even believing the CFL specs--which probably apply to the first 100
bulbs the factory sends back over here for QA, and never
thereafter--you'd need 31W of CFL to get there--suddenly the power
saving isn't 6x but 3x. But there's more: CFLs don't have the same
surface brightness as bright incandescents, so a CFL that big won't fit
the harps of most lamps.

I use CFLs too, but I think they stink. My work lamps are all Luxo 22W
cool white circline fluorescent + 100W tungsten.

Waiting around for the CFLs to turn on in the bathroom, or in the front
porch light fixture (where they're about as bright as a Christmas bulb
in cold weather) doesn't excite me at all.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Agree completely. I made measurements and found that the CFLs did rather
poorly compared to the advertised lumens. My data is somewhere in the
newsgroup past.

John

 

[[email protected]]

CFLs are rated in Marketing Lumens (TM), which are rather like Fisherman
Pounds, and for the same reason.

Anyone who thinks that a cheap 'n' nasty 15W CFL is the equivalent of a
normal 1620 lumen, 750 hour, 100W incandescent hasn't looked very hard.

I'm aiming to collect a few hundred 100W bulbs before they go away.

Same here. Almost all of our bulbs (~50 in the house) are visible in their
fixtures, so are clear. Pigs-tail CFLs are *ugly* in these fixtures and I'm
not about to replace all the fixtures in the house (the house is only three
years old). In three years I've gone through three bulbs, so a few hundred
should last me a while.

What a pain in the tuchis.

That's what government does best.

 

[Don Klipstein]

Yes, you are right, but I see 1 watt LEDs on ebay for around $1 each,
so you could make a 10 watt unit (60 watt equivalent) for maybe $10
plus time to do it.

With same or better performance in life expectancy?

At least the same efficiency - after the light goes through whatever
optics are needed?

Same or better color rendering properties, and same color of emitted
light? Warmer color (less than 4100-5000 K) and higher color rendering
index detract from lumens/watt of LEDs.

 

[Don Klipstein]

CFLs are rated in Marketing Lumens (TM), which are rather like Fisherman
Pounds, and for the same reason.

Anyone who thinks that a cheap 'n' nasty 15W CFL is the equivalent of a
normal 1620 lumen, 750 hour, 100W incandescent hasn't looked very hard.

I'm aiming to collect a few hundred 100W bulbs before they go away.
What a pain in the tuchis.

My experience is that a decent 25 or 26 watt CFL is equivalent to a
"standard" 100W CFL. 15-watters are marketed as replacing 60W
incandescents.

 

[[email protected]]

Then you know something UL doesn't....go ahead and put the
incandescent in a cellulose packed ceiling and see what happens-
that's one way to test the fire retardence.

CFL circuit boards *are* known to burn, no kindling needed.

 

[[email protected]]

every "100W equivalent" CFL I've seen consumes around 23W.
A "75W equivalent" CFL is around 18W.

BTW,if you buy 130V "contractor" bulbs,they last even longer.
Or put them on a dimmer,slightly dimmed,and they last longer.

They already last years. What's a little more?

 

[Don Klipstein]

But a decent 100W incandescent is 1620 lumens, not 1185, as I pointed out.

The comparable incandescents here are PAR, R and BR floods. Note the
CFL here is a PAR30 longbeck. I just looked up a 90W PAR incandescent -
1280 lumens, and that's a halogen one.

Even believing the CFL specs--which probably apply to the first 100
bulbs the factory sends back over here for QA, and never thereafter--

CFLs do degrade with use, something like 15% at 6,000 hours nowadays.

you'd need 31W of CFL to get there--suddenly the power saving isn't 6x
but 3x.

Except for comparing between an A19 and a flood with much greater
optical losses.

But there's more: CFLs don't have the same surface brightness as bright
incandescents, so a CFL that big won't fit the harps of most lamps.

My experience is that in lamps with harps, non-reflector lamps are used,
and plenty of CFLs rated 1750 lumens or more (26-30 watts) fit.

I use CFLs too, but I think they stink. My work lamps are all Luxo 22W
cool white circline fluorescent + 100W tungsten.

Waiting around for the CFLs to turn on in the bathroom, or in the front
porch light fixture (where they're about as bright as a Christmas bulb
in cold weather) doesn't excite me at all.

I use CFLs in my bathroom, and I like them. They are bright enough when
they first come on. (Hint: Use bare spirals instead of CFLs with
outer bulbs for brighter starts and shorter warmups.)

As for front porch - the way I usually see those used is turned on and
off once a day, or operated continuously - what's the issue with warmup?
And, I see plenty of outdoor rated ones doing fairly well in cold after
taking a few minutes to warm up.

 

[Don Klipstein]

every "100W equivalent" CFL I've seen consumes around 23W.

A "75W equivalent" CFL is around 18W.

BTW,if you buy 130V "contractor" bulbs,they last even longer.

What is the design life expectancy of these at 130V?

(A 100W 130V incandescent operated at 120V consumes 88-89 watts)

750 hours? (1670 lumens at 130V, 1275 lumens 1800 hours at 120V)
2500 hours? (1500 lumens at 120V, 1150 lumens 6000 hours at 130V)

3500 hours with vibration-resistant filament?
(1200 lumens at 130V, 925 lumens 8000 hours at 120V)

- Don Klipstein ([email protected])

 

[Don Klipstein]

Wal-Mart & Dollar Tree have a good price on 4-packs.

The 100W incandescents I see at Dollar Tree only claim to produce
1100 lumens - less than the 1190-1210 lumen light output of "standard" 75W
incandescents.

 

[Don Klipstein]

CFL circuit boards *are* known to burn, no kindling needed.

I have heard of a small number of fires and seen some nasty spectacular
failures of dollar store CFLs, usually with no claim of UL listing at all,
let alone questionable.

What I am talking about is the outright stool specimens that I see in
most dollar stores other than Dollar Tree. The one I saw at Dollar Tree
looks to me more like a "mainstream quality" CFL.

The stool specimens are of "brands" that I see mainly in dollar stores
other than Dollar Tree, including a brandless one or two. In my
experience, they have a few issues:

* Light output always less than that of other CFLs with same claim

* Color is often cool-daylight color

* Some said to be "warm white" are cool-daylight

* Most "warm color" ones have rotten color rendering like that of
"old tech warm white" (whose CRI is 53)

Back to CFLs with honest UL listing, of major brands and/or sold by
major retailers: Their circuit boards are made of a UL-recognized
flame-resistant material, and their ballast housings are made of a UL-
recognized grade of flame-retardant plastic.

 

[[email protected]]

I have heard of a small number of fires and seen some nasty spectacular
failures of dollar store CFLs, usually with no claim of UL listing at all,
let alone questionable.

What I am talking about is the outright stool specimens that I see in
most dollar stores other than Dollar Tree. The one I saw at Dollar Tree
looks to me more like a "mainstream quality" CFL.

The stool specimens are of "brands" that I see mainly in dollar stores
other than Dollar Tree, including a brandless one or two. In my
experience, they have a few issues:

* Light output always less than that of other CFLs with same claim

* Color is often cool-daylight color

* Some said to be "warm white" are cool-daylight

* Most "warm color" ones have rotten color rendering like that of
"old tech warm white" (whose CRI is 53)

Back to CFLs with honest UL listing, of major brands and/or sold by
major retailers: Their circuit boards are made of a UL-recognized
flame-resistant material, and their ballast housings are made of a UL-
recognized grade of flame-retardant plastic.

Flame retardant does not mean that they will not make a hell of a mess, or
cause a fire to the kindling Bloggs apparently stuffs around his lamps. It
simply means that they will not support combustion once the heat source is
removed.

CFLs suck in all sorts of ways. I just ordered a couple hundred more
incandescents.

 

[[email protected]]

UL 1598
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/...n=versionless&parent_id=1073988069&sequence=1


TYPE IC LUMINAIRE — Luminaires marked "TYPE IC" may be installed such
that insulation and other combustible materials are in contact with,
and over the top of, the luminaire.

Then explain how did your "cellulose packed ceiling" have such a problem that
you're afraid of incandescents?

 

[tm]

Wow, they are so obviously superior, there will be no need for a law
eliminating the hapless competition.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The purpose of the law was not to protect the consumer so much as the
security posture of the US as it relates to our dependence on foreign
oil.

______________________________________________

So now we will be dependent on foreign bulbs.


In the future we will all work for the government.


tm

 

[MakeNoAttemptToAdjustYourSet]

every "100W equivalent" CFL I've seen consumes around 23W.
A "75W equivalent" CFL is around 18W.

BTW,if you buy 130V "contractor" bulbs,they last even longer.
Or put them on a dimmer,slightly dimmed,and they last longer.

Will they last longer if being run on DC?