Single phase motor

[Bluejets]

Have I used the multimeter correct?

welllll....who knows
Readings should be obtained with the multimeter on ohms x 1 range. If using a digital meter this would normally be the 200 ohm (lowest) range

Anyhow, hold in there and we shall see.
From closer inspection of the photos you supplied, the motor is more likely to be a cap start cap run motor which is a tiny bit different from the sketch in #17 I supplied above.( missed that originally sorry)

Including the slightly different sketch below.

To complicate matters a little, again closer inspection shows some of the capacitor connections may be made half way in the motor windings which would explain your virtually open circuit readings.

What you have to appreciate is that you have the motor there with you and it is rather difficult at times for me to see what I would like to see, however we will endure.
I will see if I can track the wiring with the latest info I can see and get back to you.

In the meantime, perhaps a shot of the centriugal switch plate showing the setup ( side-on perhaps) of the switch and the link wire that goes from the back of T3 (blue I believe) to the switch support "L" bracket ( wire link looks to be about 50mm long) top photo in post #4 (btw whatever these are they magnify really well)

Can you supply the capacitor values( should be written on the body of the caps somewhere) along with their respective color cables also.

 

[Lance0070]

 

[Lance0070]

View attachment 41930 View attachment 41928

 

[Lance0070]

They are taken off my iPad Pro, gotta give it to Apple they have mastered tablet making, and thanks to those brilliant minded people out there that have open sourced them with The jailbreak, I would only buy Apple tablets, hands down

 

[Bluejets]

"L" bracket and "Y" section of the switch (attachment 41930) appear to be burnt away....would that be a fair observation?

Also could you provide these ...?

Capacitor-1

Yellow to ......

Black to ........


Capacitor -2

Black to ......

Red to ........

Blue to .......


Readings

Between Red on A1 to ........ Red on T2 =

Black on capacitor-1 to ....... Black on capacitor-2 =

Yellow on capacitor-1 to ......Yellow soldered into centre-top of switch plate =

Blue on A1 to ....... Blue on A2 =

 

[Lance0070]

It was bent out of shape so I bent it back could be a shadow we’re the crease is from me trying to straighten and the bracket might be rust, I’ll will look tomorroow as it is 2 degrees outside and 1045 at night

 

[Lance0070]

"L" bracket and "Y" section of the switch (attachment 41930) appear to be burnt away....would that be a fair observation?

Also could you provide these ...?

Capacitor-1

Yellow to ......

Black to ........


Capacitor -2

Black to ......

Red to ........

Blue to .......


Readings

Between Red on A1 to ........ Red on T2 = 5.2

Black on capacitor-1 to ....... Black on capacitor-2 =.5

Yellow on capacitor-1 to ......Yellow soldered into centre-top of switch plate =no read

Blue on A1 to ....... Blue on A2 =35

I couldn’t tell you where the capacitor wires go they disappear into the windings, so iv taken photos of them

 

[Lance0070]

The top two photos are the wires that run off to the capacitors the blue red and black ones were connected to what it looks like it says starting on the green case of the capacitor

 

[Bluejets]

Thanks for providing measurements.

The answer to " the remaining wiring and their origin" is done using the multimeter, much the same as you have determined that the black on cap-1 loops to the cap-2 i.e. 0.5R reading.
I can see from here that wiring disappears into concealed spaces. What you need to do that I cannot, is to do continuity tests between wiring of the same color.
I will use details you have provided to start to complete a wiring arrangement.
With your input above (red to red, you have confirmed what I originally thought, i.e. this the RUN winding)

 

[Lance0070]

How do I do a continuity test?

 

[Bluejets]

If digital multimeter, select 200 ohm range and touch red and black probes together, you should get maybe 0.4 or 0.5 ohm reading.
This is continuity ( continuous circuit) reading.

So if one were to pick up a piece of wire off the workbench and place the probes, one each end, one would get the above reading.

Now if there were 2 pieces of wire lying on your workbench and you placed the red probe on one end of one piece and the black probe on one end of the other piece, you would get a reading of OL or open circuit.

Get the drift?

All the above will tell us which wire goes where in your motor without having to have a visual.
This assumes you have all ends "free" i.e. not connected to anything else.

Hence the previous requirement to "label" all wiring where it presently resides, never know, most of the connections might be ok.

Can you verify you are using a digital multimeter as opposed to an analogue type?

 

[Lance0070]

 

[Bluejets]

ok...auto ranging digital.
Meter should automatically adjust to the range being measured.
If not, click the range buton until appropriate range appears.
Just take a good note of the actual range it displays when recording any reading.

 

[Lance0070]

Got caught up with making a concrete pizza oven semi descent weather to take advantage of, will do the test in the morning

 

[Lance0070]

Yellow to yellow .3
Black to black no reading
Blue to blue .2
Red to red .3

 

[Bluejets]

Have to be more specific.
As an example there are 2 of each color at various points.

You have previously given me a reading of 5.2 ohm for the reds on A1 and T2.
So where are you measuring the latest red to red.

I think you are going to have to get someone local with a little experience in readings as this is going nowhere.