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Help diagnosing AC Sliding gate controller stops halfway

Harald Kapp

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Moderator
I have no idea, sorry. I found that statement in the PDF Martin linked. Details on how to set the timer should be in the manual.
upload_2021-6-14_8-29-46.png
I found a manual here. Is that the unit you use? If so, check the fault diagnosis checklist on page 26 ff. Does any of the descriptions match your case (incl. stae of LEDs etc.)?
 
I have no idea, sorry. I found that statement in the PDF Martin linked. Details on how to set the timer should be in the manual.
View attachment 52071
I found a manual here. Is that the unit you use? If so, check the fault diagnosis checklist on page 26 ff. Does any of the descriptions match your case (incl. stae of LEDs etc.)?
Sorry it is not the unit i am using now eventhough the model no. SL1000 is correct.
My board is completely different. I don't recall this board has a safety limit timer of any kind.
Thanks anyway for the manual. It helps me to understand more on the preventive maintenance.
 
Going back to your first post and photo of the PCB, does this capacitor look domed/swollen?
or is it just the photo angle?
upload_2021-6-14_11-37-53.png

Martin
 

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Sir mikey5791 . . . . .

O.K. since I see no length of the whole gate being given and its cogged drive rail, nor how much distance it misses . . . in meters . . . . from fully closing ?
In reference to my earlier pulling the large pinion drive gear (only 19 teeth) it looks like that there is a mechanical disable feature in case the system electromechanically fails.
If you go to the unit and insert the key the whole inset should lever out like a door handle.
Then you keep rotating it out to its 90 degree max , where it should mechanically stop. This would have let the large (GIANT) gear disengage from its gearing and then be able to freewheel.
Now you should be able to grab the gate and manually / physically move it either direction.
What you want to do initially is have cycled the operation of the gate until it stops at that premature dead spot in closing.. Then mark a spot on the gatte that lines up with the large pinion drive gear. ( To be able to set everything back in the same position . . .later . . . . if this test is futile in error correcting.
After then unlocking and going to freewheeling manual position, physically move the gate further towards clolsing, of such a distance that you will then be able to see . . . . . on the following powered up open / close cycle . . . . . that . . . . . ITS NOW CLOSING FURTHER ! ! !

You then pull in and fold the lock handle to be able to key lock the unit again in and then be able to trial test in its powered position.
. . . . . . . . Now go try it out . . . . . .

Ref . . .

does this capacitor look domed/swollen?

This unit is using a line frequency linear supply.
Threrewith . . . . . not akin to a a Switch Mode Power supply . . . that is having powerfull fast rise / fast fall square waveforms . . . constantly hammering the HELL out of its E-caps being fed.
At tens of thousands - - - - - upward to - - - many millions of times a second.
Conjunctively, with an adjunct time related heating up of its electrolyte, pressure vaping off some of it, with a resultant further expotential heating.
With time . . . the pressure build up can split the can at, purposeful, thinner molded in stresss line indentations.
The only linear power supplies I have found that are equally affected are ones directly feeding POWER ultrasonic or RF circuits, where a .01 / .1ufd disc ceramic bypass cap will go a long way in buffering time of protecting the input E- capacitor.


73's de Edd . . . . .

Last year I joined up with a support group for procrastinators . . . . we haven't met yet.



.
 
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Going back to your first post and photo of the PCB, does this capacitor look domed/swollen?
or is it just the photo angle?
View attachment 52074

Martin
Martin,
The tiny cap is a 220uf 16v electrolytic, it is not swollen or domed but out of curiousity i pulled it out and test off board on an esr meter. The meter shown it as "unknown damaged". Using a capacitor meter, it only tested as 96uf which is way off. Bravo! I think we solved the mystery. I replaced the damaged cap with a similar type and rating. The board now is working for the auto gate nicely. I never would have thought such a tiny harmless non swollen cap will make the whole board not functioning properly. (open ok but close halfway)
Much thanks to Martin and the rest of our forum friends who have been contributing to revive this board. One board saved from the dump.
 

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Harald Kapp

Moderator
Moderator
While you're at it you may want to swap the other electrolytics, too. They all are the same age and probably suffer from similar problems, even if not yet obvious.
 
Well done!,
Those cheap component testers wont be able to check every component or value.
They will however show 'unknown or damaged part' for many components. Always better to have a few different types of testers for that very reason.

Martin
 
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