Capacitor Knowledge Wanted

[King Forrest]

I guess I just assumed all the disc shaped ones were ceramic. Kinda hard to tell from my photos though. Maybe i'll break out my photography lights and play around with the DSLR modes a bit

As for tolerance, what's our tolerance on that? When I use the search filters on websites like Mouser, I see all of the "audiophile grade" ones being rated at 20%, where's others are only %10. Plus, they're only rated for 1000 hours @85c. That's like, not very long.

I'm also a little confused on "snap in" caps, do they fit into normal through-holes, or are they for a special mount of sorts?

 

[Audioguru]

Electrolytic capacitors in the good old days had a plus sign.
Not anymore, now they have a minus (negative?) sign.

 

[King Forrest]

Okay, so I've made a rather crude diagram of how the signal flows through the circuit. The red/black goes to the speakers. Everything else is input. Not sure if it's of any relevance, but I would like to know what exactly does what. For the amps, Pin 1 is -(gray/grey/crème/green) and Pin 2 is +(ping/orange/yellow/grellow). Not sure if everything else is corrent +/- wise.

 

[King Forrest]

Something I just realized....those cereamic caps, marked "220" should be .022nf, right. But my meter shows them as .22nf, same as a "221" cap. The heck's going on?

 

[davenn]

Somewhere in the back of my mind, looking at the first pix of the "220" yellow ones screamed "Tantalum". Just making sure.

no it isnt

 

[davenn]

No, 22u. Dot towards the negative. I just seem to remember using caps of this shape at one time and they were tants. The shape just doesn't look quite right to be ceramic. I'm not trying to argue that the *are* tants, just was checking out the possibility.

It is NOT a tant and it is 22pF NOT 22uF
and it isn't polarised

 

[davenn]

Something I just realized....those cereamic caps, marked "220" should be .022nf, right. But my meter shows them as .22nf, same as a "221" cap. The heck's going on?

Meter inaccuracies ?
of course some el cheapo manufacturer may have not followed the standard marking procedure and they really are 220pF

 

[Ylli]

three sig figs instead of two sig figs and a multiplier. Not too uncommon. That's why a capacitance meter is a good investment.

 

[King Forrest]

Okay, got some of the replacement caps in today, settled on some Nichicon UFG caps, with a lovely black on gold wrapper.

But something i neglected to ask beforehand...there's one more type of cap, a yellow rectangle of sorts lables "D104J~2P3" (~ representing the logo, so I assume) I can't seem to find any cap decoder charts that use this format.
It is also connected to the same traces as the large caps photoed earlier, like litteraly right beside them.

 

[davenn]

there's one more type of cap, a yellow rectangle of sorts lables "D104J~2P3"

yellow rectangular one will be a mylar or similar type, 104 = 100,000pf = 100nF = 0.1 uF

 

[Ylli]

and 'J' usually means 5%

 

[King Forrest]

Umm.....I did a dumb-dumb. I didn't take photos, and my parts tray got messed up...
There's no shcematics for this.
How screwed am I?

Is there a way to just kinda figure it out?

 

[davenn]

How screwed am I?

very

Is there a way to just kinda figure it out?

electrolytics will probably have a + sign near one hole, the ceramics and other type wont
trying to get the right values in the right places would be like a jigsaw puzzle with no pic on them to build up

You really need to locate a schematic

 

[King Forrest]

Okay, made some progress. I found a single photo, a close up of just one spot...but since I know all of the ins and outs work the same, I was able to fix a few things using only that small photo. Not much left although I seem to be missing some caps. I counted 8 spots on the board that are polarized, but only 6 polar caps. Hopefully they're just under a pile of clothes on the floor.

As for the schematics...doubt there is any, it is a Ford OEM part after all. But, I did ask the Taurus Club forums and hopefully someone there can get my a diagram or something.

 

[(*steve*)]

Photos of another unit would probably suffice.