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It's always good to take a little time to consider where you are going to place you bits and pieces so that you can get them in a reasonably logical order. It can be quite irksome to have to rip everything out and start again.
The main thing to be wary of when mounting the board is that you don't cause and shorts between the tracks and the case.
I often mount strip board on screws through the bottom of the case with 2 nuts on the screw and then mount the board on top of the nuts. If you have any, a fibre or nylon washer on the underside of the board to insulate it from the nuts works well just be cognisant of the comment above.
It sounds as if you have put the IC's in the right way round. A picture would still be useful to confirm.
There is nothing to stop you taking the LED's of the board so that you can pass them through the lid. Just be very careful to get them the right way round. I suggest that you put a a mark on one side of each LED so that you can get their electrical orientation correct and just as importantly do them one at a time. It is probably worth marking the board as well to show where the connections go. You want to avoid removing and replacing them several times as the tracks will start to peel off.
Good Luck.
Edit: have just seen the picture you posted. They look to be the right way round (I will check again) but the bottom one is displaced by one hole. You need to move it up one hole.
The main thing to be wary of when mounting the board is that you don't cause and shorts between the tracks and the case.
I often mount strip board on screws through the bottom of the case with 2 nuts on the screw and then mount the board on top of the nuts. If you have any, a fibre or nylon washer on the underside of the board to insulate it from the nuts works well just be cognisant of the comment above.
It sounds as if you have put the IC's in the right way round. A picture would still be useful to confirm.
There is nothing to stop you taking the LED's of the board so that you can pass them through the lid. Just be very careful to get them the right way round. I suggest that you put a a mark on one side of each LED so that you can get their electrical orientation correct and just as importantly do them one at a time. It is probably worth marking the board as well to show where the connections go. You want to avoid removing and replacing them several times as the tracks will start to peel off.
Good Luck.
Edit: have just seen the picture you posted. They look to be the right way round (I will check again) but the bottom one is displaced by one hole. You need to move it up one hole.
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Hi yes, i know it is displaced by 1 pin, i did this purposely to show the orientation
I apreciate your explanations, and i appreciate its going to take a while for you to get to know where my knowlage is at on this project and in general, but yes keep is as simple as you can please, i would rather read your comments and instructions and think , well yeah!, than read and have to ask stupid questions and look stupid,
I think its @bertus status that says, you may look stupid asking questions, but if you dont ask, you will stay stuipd , verry true
Also, is there something i could print out , or a program could use to make a face plate for this box with dial and LED info on it ?
I use Autosketch to do such things. Sadly it is no longer available. There are a number of free CAD packages around.
Try the link below. I have never used it but it might be worth a try.
Free CAD Software | Draft it Free | Cadlogic
Try the link below. I have never used it but it might be worth a try.
Free CAD Software | Draft it Free | Cadlogic
I assumed the black is MIC input and gold is ground, i connected green to ground and yellow to mic black, plugged everything in and connected a probe to the box, then setup the sig gen with a set of crock clip leads, i get nothing :-(, i have continuity from the board to the headphone jack so its not my bad soldering work, laptop is set to use headphone MIC,
It is completely counter clockwise, so at 1:1
If yo have a single AA or AAA battery to hand, you could use it to test your box.
Call the AA battery "Test Battery"
Connect your scope lead to the input of the box.
Connect a flying lead with croc clips to the output.
Connect your DMM to the flying lead.
Set DMM to 2V range. Switch on you box.
Make sure the attenuator switch is set to 1:1.
Apply "Test Battery" to Scope lead terminals.
Observe DMM.
It should read about 1.5V.
Reverse "Test Battery" connections.
Observe DMM. It should now be of the opposite polarity to your previous test.
Edit: I should have added "Set scope lead attenuator to 1:1" at the 7th instruction.
Call the AA battery "Test Battery"
Connect your scope lead to the input of the box.
Connect a flying lead with croc clips to the output.
Connect your DMM to the flying lead.
Set DMM to 2V range. Switch on you box.
Make sure the attenuator switch is set to 1:1.
Apply "Test Battery" to Scope lead terminals.
Observe DMM.
It should read about 1.5V.
Reverse "Test Battery" connections.
Observe DMM. It should now be of the opposite polarity to your previous test.
Edit: I should have added "Set scope lead attenuator to 1:1" at the 7th instruction.
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So basically connect a 1.5vdc battery to the input and use my meter to read the voltave at the headphone jack ?
This is confusing, i dont understand the point of this lead when i can just use my meter leads to connect where needed ?
In this case the flying leads are just used to help connect the meter to the output. I guess you could hold them there, but you may need an extra pair of hands.
Quite often we will use either meter probes with alligator clips on the end, or short leads with clips on both ends to clip to both the meter probes and the point in question so we don't need extra pairs of hands.
In this case it sounds like you're using the meter to probe the BNC connector. I guess you could get someone else to hold the leads on it, or try to rest the probes in the right place. But for things like this, I have a BNC to alligator clip lead.
I doubt you'll have a lot of use for such a lead in the future, so something else may be more appropriate.
The same applies to oscilloscope probes. the usually have a clip for the ground connection, but for the probe (and for low -- i.e. audio) frequencies you can also use a short lead with clips at both ends to save you a hand.
These techniques are also used when you're operating with high voltages, or where the equipment floats at a high voltage to allow you to do your testing "hands-off" for safety.
Quite often we will use either meter probes with alligator clips on the end, or short leads with clips on both ends to clip to both the meter probes and the point in question so we don't need extra pairs of hands.
In this case it sounds like you're using the meter to probe the BNC connector. I guess you could get someone else to hold the leads on it, or try to rest the probes in the right place. But for things like this, I have a BNC to alligator clip lead.
I doubt you'll have a lot of use for such a lead in the future, so something else may be more appropriate.
The same applies to oscilloscope probes. the usually have a clip for the ground connection, but for the probe (and for low -- i.e. audio) frequencies you can also use a short lead with clips at both ends to save you a hand.
These techniques are also used when you're operating with high voltages, or where the equipment floats at a high voltage to allow you to do your testing "hands-off" for safety.
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