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What Does Your Electronics Workshop Look Like?

R

Rich Grise

If you combine that with a self sealed relay as the run contact
(momentary N.O. pushbutton to start, momentary N.C. pushbutton or
pulled key to stop) I think it would be just great. I just wouldn't
want the motor to start at the moment I plugged the key in the hole.
I might just add that to my press.

Not much industry experience, huh? ;-) I only mention it because almost
every major industrial-grade tool I've seen has "ON" and "OFF" buttons,
and a latching contactor. If power goes down, or the "OFF" button is
pressed, or the "EMERGENCY STOP" button is pressed, the machine turns
off, and doesn't restart when you reset the breaker - you have to
overtly press the green "ON" (or sometimes "START") button. This gives
you a chance to clear the scrap out of the machine before you reset
and restart whatever process got stopped in the middle.

Probably cost-prohibitive for a consumer-level garage or basement
drill press.

Then again, people pay for explosives inside their car in the name of
"safety"; why not add fifteen or twenty bucks to the cost of a power
tool if you can tout it as a "safety" feature? ;-P

Thanks!
Rich
 
J

Joel Kolstad

Rich Grise said:
Then again, people pay for explosives inside their car in the name of
"safety"; why not add fifteen or twenty bucks to the cost of a power
tool if you can tout it as a "safety" feature? ;-P

Because people are convinced that air bags are there to protect them when
OTHERS crash into them, whereas few people are willing to pay for extra
protective measures to protect them from THEMSELVES! :)
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

Rich said:
Hmm, then maybe you need a little bungee for it. :)


I prefer the small chain. If someone turns the drill press on with it
in the chuck there is a weak link that will snap and not whip the chain
all over the place.

Hey! I just had an invention! The chuck key plugs into a dead-man switch
socket! It's right there on the drill press, and you pull it out, it kills
the power, you use it, and you have to poke the chuck key back into its
socket or the drill press won't turn on! ;-)

Nah, they'd defeat it with a nail or something.

Good Luck!
Rich


I've got a scrap bench top drill press that was built with a switch
lick that. Its the second one my dad has killed in the last seven
years. You couldn't flip the power switch on the first one, till the
chuck key was wedged into the hole.
 
Z

Zak

Rich said:
Not much industry experience, huh? ;-) I only mention it because almost
every major industrial-grade tool I've seen has "ON" and "OFF" buttons,
and a latching contactor. If power goes down, or the "OFF" button is
pressed, or the "EMERGENCY STOP" button is pressed, the machine turns
off, and doesn't restart when you reset the breaker - you have to
overtly press the green "ON" (or sometimes "START") button. This gives
you a chance to clear the scrap out of the machine before you reset
and restart whatever process got stopped in the middle.

Probably cost-prohibitive for a consumer-level garage or basement
drill press.

Well, the one I got at the supermarket for some 40 euros has one.

They're actually simple devices: a switch where the latch is a tiny
coil. Not expensive at all, if made in sufficient volume.


Thomas
 
I

Ignoramus8558

Probably cost-prohibitive for a consumer-level garage or basement
drill press.

that stuff is pretty cheap these days. Nice ON/OFF buttons are about
$13 at surpluscenter.com, and contactors cost next to nothing on
ebay.

i
 
A

Al

Joel Kolstad said:
Because people are convinced that air bags are there to protect them when
OTHERS crash into them, whereas few people are willing to pay for extra
protective measures to protect them from THEMSELVES! :)

A little off topic, but air bags don't protect anything. People have air
bags and now think they can drive more aggressively as they are
"protected." Four-wheel drive also makes people drive in conditions they
normally would not; but four-wheel stop is the same for both.

Al
 
J

John Popelish

Rich said:
Not much industry experience, huh? ;-)

Lots. I just described it for those who do have not seen this common
control circuit. And, sadly, most home power tools have no such
control circuit.
I only mention it because almost
every major industrial-grade tool I've seen has "ON" and "OFF" buttons,
and a latching contactor. If power goes down, or the "OFF" button is
pressed, or the "EMERGENCY STOP" button is pressed, the machine turns
off, and doesn't restart when you reset the breaker - you have to
overtly press the green "ON" (or sometimes "START") button. This gives
you a chance to clear the scrap out of the machine before you reset
and restart whatever process got stopped in the middle.

Probably cost-prohibitive for a consumer-level garage or basement
drill press.

Then again, people pay for explosives inside their car in the name of
"safety"; why not add fifteen or twenty bucks to the cost of a power
tool if you can tout it as a "safety" feature? ;-P

It wouldn't have added $5 to the production cost of my made in Taiwan
drill press.
 
K

Korbin Dallas

You're supposed to ty-wrap it to the cord, out at the plug end, so that
you can't use it while the drill is plugged in. (Keeps your hands in
one piece.) :)

Cheers!
Rich

A Clean Workbench is the sign of a person who is not doing anything...
 
T

Too_Many_Tools

Thanks for the responses so far....

A few more questions....

How much and what type of storage do you have?

How are the workbenches laid out most efficiently? L shaped? U shaped?
T shaped?

How much stationary and how much mobile?

What do you like for lighting?

Has anyone built power busses into your bench? If so, what was it?

How about floor coverings? Ever drop a tiny screw or surface mount part
on the floor and spend hours looking for it?

TMT
 
G

gb

Saandy said:
YOU CALL THIS A WORKBENCH!?!?!?
my Goodness, if the mess on mine is les than 5 inches deep I feel I
didn't do anything on that table! You know, I trained myself to
identify location of things by the sound they make when they fall on
something else when I throw it aside. If I were now to mop it up , I
wouldn't be able to find anything!
In any case I wish you good luck and I congratulate you for the
initiative.
Saandy 4Z5KS

Just missing "ON VACATION" sign :)
 
Too_Many_Tools said:
Thanks for the responses so far....

A few more questions....

How much and what type of storage do you have?

seems there are pros and cons to all of them. Budget is a relevant
question, you wont get tracked racks on a limited budget.

Cardboard boxes are budget-free, most flexible, spares store flat, and
you can cut them up for sound proofing.

How are the workbenches laid out most efficiently? L shaped? U shaped?
T shaped?

I dont know. I've always gone for multilayered where possible. But
whats best depends. Being able to put some kit on a half depth shelf
under the worktop saves space. And another high shelf gives more
opportunity for more gear thats semi within reach.

How much stationary and how much mobile?

if theres room to move anything about, youre not using your space
efficiently.

What do you like for lighting?

Flourescent 3500K, 2 or 3 lights with switchbank so you can vary the
level. High brightness is quite unpleasant all day, and gentler
lighting no good for all work.
5w CFL inspection light. Ultrabright LED on the end of a foot of
bellwire for a tiny spaces light inside equipment - very handy. Be sure
to sleeve insulate it.
The one thing I've never found handy is an anglepoise. Too large, too
uncooperative, too often in the way.
Magnifying light for sm work - though I dont have that here.

Has anyone built power busses into your bench? If so, what was it?

On front of, side of, above, behind, under, yes, but not into. Into is
too inflexible, and a pointless money spend imho. I used built-in at
work but never thought it the best option.

How about floor coverings? Ever drop a tiny screw or surface mount part
on the floor and spend hours looking for it?

No, consider what the part costs and what your time's worth. There are
normally more in the box. I always use a multicompartment tray to put
removed bits in so this doesnt happen.

I suppose antistatic lino would be the ideal floor, but never had it.
Ordinary vinyl floors are the worst for static, I'd avoid those.
Concrete conducts more than I'd like, puts humans at risk. HT PSUs with
reservoir caps are effectively not protected by RCDs (GFCIs). Wood is
the best imho, its insulating, doesnt generate static, comfortable,
smooth surfaced, looks good, feels good, is often already in place, is
low cost, easy clean, low noise, what more could you want?

Dont overlook climate control. I dont know where you are but summer
dryness isnt good for static. A wet towel and fan restores RH and
catches pollen, if you dont want to spring for proper climate control.
Also fumes can be an issue at times, esp burning plastic, though I've
never considered going as far as a fume cupboard. Outdoors is fine for
that occasional job. But if you really wanted everything, I guess a
powerful extract fan at the back of the bench would see occasional use.

Dont forget to ask the cat too. You need somewhere comfortable and
close for kitty, somewhere that keeps an obstacle in the way of
climbing on the bench, so you get enough time to take action re
soldering iron, voltages etc. In practice you need a few somewheres,
and the cat will decide which is good. At least one within reach and
one out of reach.

When you get on to test gear, definitely have 2 computers. One for the
serious stuff, the other one you can put every bit of unknown but looks
interesting software on you want, turn it into an all singing all
dancing all crashing test centre. I never knew I needed a vector scope,
but with a PC its free. Ditto a wide range of variable performance test
gear.


NT
 
F

Fred Bloggs

How much and what type of storage do you have?

I take what they give me- but I prefer those big roll around
multi-drawer jobs with each drawer user partitioned.
How are the workbenches laid out most efficiently? L shaped? U shaped?
T shaped?

Makes no difference- all lined up against one wall works well, the
mobile stuff needs to go in a rack anyway- roll the rack to where it's
needed, some people prefer carts.
How much stationary and how much mobile?

Every thing goes mobile at one point or any other. Stationary just means
it will be something to make mobile later.
What do you like for lighting?

It can only be flourescent- and built in to the bench in addition to
normal room lighting works best.
Has anyone built power busses into your bench? If so, what was it?

A real bench has bussed line voltage with *LOTS* of receptacles.
How about floor coverings? Ever drop a tiny screw or surface mount part
on the floor and spend hours looking for it?

It always has to be thick insulating mats rated for 20KV, any IC dropped
on the floor is considered lost and not used, a screw is a different
matter, you shouldn't have to hunt for a hard to find screw, you should
be able to cut to length any replacement.

Better make space for lots of data books and a computer, fire
extinguisher, metal working machines, first aid kit, smoke alarm,
set-aside projects, file cabinets, and nice-to-get-to-later junk you
will accumulate. And make it so that every damned thing can be locked
up- especially the door to the lab, and more locks on all the storage
cabintes once inside, you may consider touch pad enable of all the room
receptacles, and installing an alarm.
 
J

Jim Thompson

[snip]
you may consider touch pad enable of all the room
receptacles, and installing an alarm.

When I was involved in off-line switchers I had a "panic button"
installed... one side-of-the-hand punch dropped the whole lab.

Plus a rule of no work unless a minimum of two people were there.

...Jim Thompson
 
G

gb

Michael A. Terrell said:
I moved over 1000 miles in 1987 and I had 24 50 drawer Akro-Mills
cabinets full of parts. I cut pieces of cardboard to cover the front and
placed two of them face to face, then taped them together. I didn't
have even one part out of place when I arrived at my new place and set
up my shop. The move was done with my shop's step van and I hauled over
17,000 pounds of tools, parts, manuals and test equipment in two trips.
there is nothing wrong with parts cabinets, if you know how to pack
them.

Same trick I used when I moved my parts cabinets from PA back to IL in
1980s.

Finally gave away my last old AkroMills metal cabinet (50 drawer) to new
amateur earlier this year.

gb
 
G

gb

Rich Grise said:
Not much industry experience, huh? ;-) I only mention it because almost
every major industrial-grade tool I've seen has "ON" and "OFF" buttons,
and a latching contactor. If power goes down, or the "OFF" button is
pressed, or the "EMERGENCY STOP" button is pressed, the machine turns
off, and doesn't restart when you reset the breaker - you have to
overtly press the green "ON" (or sometimes "START") button. This gives
you a chance to clear the scrap out of the machine before you reset
and restart whatever process got stopped in the middle.

Probably cost-prohibitive for a consumer-level garage or basement
drill press.
Actually not a bad price at all ..... you can get one from Rockler
Woodworking for less than $20 .. these have been on sale for a few weeks...
great price for shop tool .. currently free with their router table. They
have a couple of local stores here in Chicago area
http://www.rockler.com/index.cfm?

gb
 
S

Spehro Pefhany

Lots. I just described it for those who do have not seen this common
control circuit. And, sadly, most home power tools have no such
control circuit.


It wouldn't have added $5 to the production cost of my made in Taiwan
drill press.

I'm pretty sure the power switch in my China made small bench drill
press cost no more than about 15 cents.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

gb said:
Same trick I used when I moved my parts cabinets from PA back to IL in
1980s.

Finally gave away my last old AkroMills metal cabinet (50 drawer) to new
amateur earlier this year.

gb


I need about 20 more, but they don't make them anymore. I've been
using the crappy all plastic ones that shrink and jam. I'm about to the
point of putting the parts in plastic bags and driving over the damn
cheap plastic things.
 
M

Michael A. Terrell

Spehro said:
I'm pretty sure the power switch in my China made small bench drill
press cost no more than about 15 cents.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany


I added a commercial, heavy duty foot switch to my floor model drill
press to make it easier to use while leaning on my cane.
 
T

Too_Many_Tools

"Finally gave away my last old AkroMills metal cabinet (50 drawer) to
new
amateur earlier this year."

Does anyone make a METAL cabinet anymore like the older Akromills ones?

TMT
 
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