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Single Digit Seven Segment Display Scoreboard HELP!!

It actually says 5v...:D

Sorry for the poor resolution but Tina refuses to co-operate:(

Yes..it can run at 12v. Just need to change the debounce cap/res values and the display resistor values.

I'll post an updated schematic later today.

Which chip will you use for the inverters, 40106's or 4093's?
 
It actually says 5v...:D

Sorry for the poor resolution but Tina refuses to co-operate:(

Yes..it can run at 12v. Just need to change the debounce cap/res values and the display resistor values.

I'll post an updated schematic later today.
no problem. 5v is actually great, ill work on it as is, the power supply is set up with a 5v output already. but I may need some help with finding/identifying some parts. to make sure Im getting what i need.
 
Sorry, what I meant is there are six in the chip and I'm using one PER segment. so one for the home one for away and one for the period counters. Correct? in the same way we used the 4093b in the previous attempt.

Yes, so you need one chip. If you use 4093's you will need two chips.
 
Yes, so you need one chip. If you use 4093's you will need two chips.
Ok, so I have gone over everything and am working on ordering some items to start building this ASAP.
However in doing so, I have a few questions about the parts and a few part #'s. that I have highlighted in red. (keeping in mind I'm still learning please)
1) after the inverters where it says "SW1" (And SW2 Sw3... ex.) What is that? or is that meant to be a label for each switch? looks like a connection. not sure how to read that.
2) The Resistors before the displays. It just says "R200" this is meant to be resistor arrays? and if so are they 200 Ohms?
3) the connection #'s or notations between said arrays and the 7 segment displays. what are these?
4) the other 2 regarding the segment displays and the resistors at the bottom. I'm not finding anything with the #. and just wanted to double check that these were the same as the ones i have and we talked about before.
And the resistor (and all above really) can you point me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for?

there are so many different resistors with different ratings and kinds I don't want to get the wrong ones.

thanks!
 

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Ok, so I have gone over everything and am working on ordering some items to start building this ASAP.
However in doing so, I have a few questions about the parts and a few part #'s. that I have highlighted in red. (keeping in mind I'm still learning please)

1) after the inverters where it says "SW1" (And SW2 Sw3... ex.) What is that? or is that meant to be a label for each switch? looks like a connection. not sure how to read that.
{/QUOTE]

Those are measurement points for the simulator. You can ignore those.

2) The Resistors before the displays. It just says "R200" this is meant to be resistor arrays? and if so are they 200 Ohms?

Yes...they are 200 ohm resistor arrays. I tried to choose a resistor value that would limit LED segment current to the middle of the range. Max is 30mA, so the resistors limit current to about 15mA. You can change these if you like. Just do the math like Gryd3 show'd you in post #28.

3) the connection #'s or notations between said arrays and the 7 segment displays. what are these?

Again, those are measurement point for the simulator. You can ignore those. There are really just straight wires between the resistors and LED display.

4) the other 2 regarding the segment displays and the resistors at the bottom. I'm not finding anything with the #. and just wanted to double check that these were the same as the ones i have and we talked about before.

The LED's I've shown in the schematic were just for the simulation. You would use the ones you chose in an earlier post. The only thing is that your LED spec says 1.8v Vf and 30mA max. I calculated the resistors based on using 1.8v@15mA.

And the resistor (and all above really) can you point me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for?
there are so many different resistors with different ratings and kinds I don't want to get the wrong ones.
thanks!

All resistors can be 1/4 watt, or greater, 5% tolerance .I tried to use standard values that are easy to get. If you change the LED current limiting resistor values, be sure to account for any increase in current and check power discipation. I'm assuming you'll be using through hole parts. The resistor circled at the bottom is 1 megaohm.

One thing I should mention is that a 0.1uf, 50v cap should be connected from +V to ground at each chip's positive supply pin to keep noise down. Could be a small ceramic disc cap.
 
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Ok excellent! thats what I was thinking they are were but I have already messed up so many times. :)
however,
when you say:
"One thing I should mention is that a 0.1uf, 50v cap should be connected from +V to ground at each chip's positive supply pin to keep noise down. Could be a small ceramic disc cap."

are you referring to the capacitors at "C9" "C8" and "C7" on the CD4033's
Or adding one to the CD40106be Schmitt trigger?
 
Ok excellent! thats what I was thinking they are were but I have already messed up so many times. :)

No worries...your doing great:)

however,
when you say:
"One thing I should mention is that a 0.1uf, 50v cap should be connected from +V to ground at each chip's positive supply pin to keep noise down. Could be a small ceramic disc cap."

are you referring to the capacitors at "C9" "C8" and "C7" on the CD4033's
Or adding one to the CD40106be Schmitt trigger?

Yes. Just add one to the CD40106BE
 
all caps, except c10, 50v, +/-20%, ceramic, or better

c10 470uF, 25v, +/-20%, electrolytic

Diodes are P/N 1N4148

Ok so I have all the components that I need and Im working on building it on a breadboard. can you hemp me understand how the wiring would work as stated in the diagram on a bread board or prototype board? I have a feeling that this is where I may have messed up before.

I have attached rough diagram of the 40106 chip and how I was thinking that the first switch and first two capacitors would hook together (IE: the top left most part of the schematic). Im just a bit confused on how the resistors would line up in relation to pin one and the capacitor.
Could you take a look and see if I'm correct and on the right track?

(Keeping in mind that in the PIC the Black/Red square is the momentary switch, and the green lead would connect to the CD4033, and the capacitors from pin 1 and on 14 are 100N, the other two are the 470u and 100n from left to right)

thanks!
 

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Hi thefstopjedi:)

Its a little difficult to tell because the components are not marked.

Some comments:

1. Add pin numbers to all your pins, including caps and resistors, and also Ref designators, on your breadboard diagram. Its makes it easier to communicate point to point connections and specific parts. Do this on a printout or in you software.

2. When placing parts on the breadboard, try to follow a consistent component orientation.
For example, for resistors and caps, orient them so they can be read left to right, or top to bottom when viewed from the edge of the board. That way if you have to turn the board to read a component, you'll turn the same way each time Try to do the same with polar devices and IC's using polarity marking as a guide.

3. Try to keep your connections short and flat, as practical, against the breadboard. Sometimes jumpers can act like antenna's and cause erratic operation if they're up in the air. ;)

4. For the bypass caps, connect one end as close a possible to +V pin of the IC, the other end to the closest ground point

5. You can orient your components either vertically or horizontally (but flat against the board), just try to be consistent (as I mentioned in comment #2 above).

These are not concrete rules but hopefully will help with bread boarding task.

Looks like your on the right track though...:)

I'll try to post an example later...
 
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Hi

Here is a partially wired breadboard. I wired the first PB circuit.
Red=+5, Black=Gnd, Green = jumper.
 

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Hi

Here is a partially wired breadboard. I wired the first PB circuit.
Red=+5, Black=Gnd, Green = jumper.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! Thats not far off from what I was doing so that gives me a bit of encouragement.
One (maybe silly) question. if I were to consolidate all of the components, in the same arrangement on the board, but just closer together. would i have any problems with interference or anything? reason Im asking is I'm going to (once all is said and done on a prototype board) be putting this in a relatively small space, as it needs to fit into the tables jumbotron.
 
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