Replacement for broken coaxial power connector at Acer netbook powersupply?

[Jens Herrmann]

Hello,
the power supply of a friends Acer netbook has the problem that the
cable breaks just at the coaxial power connector. This happens
frequently and takes just a couple of weeks after a repair. I have tried
to find the coaxial power connector (5,5x2,5) as a replacement part, but
all I could find was a plug like the one at the right side of
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hohlstecker_und_Hohlbuchse_5,5x2,5.jpg
This plug lacks the spring of the original plug which prevents the
connection coming loose at the slightest movement.
What do you do in a situation like that? Do you know a source where I
could purchase the original coaxial power connector?

Thanks in advance
Jens Herrmann

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Have you considered using shrink-wrap tubing to create a strain relief?

 

[N_Cook]

Using a 90 degree (right-angle) plug is much more resilient and suffers less
from abusive treatment, IMO.
The external connectors provided with many types of compact portable
equipment are inline/straight types, which makes little sense in terms of
reliability.. straight plugs generally exert more stress on the cable ends
near the back of the plug, and also the internal sockets of the equipment,
in addition to making the footprint of said compact equipment much larger
when accessories are connected.

Some equipment users routinely jamb equipment up against other surfaces,
oblivious to the strain being placed on the cables, especially cables with
straight plugs.
Trouble is, there are too many fragile connectors used on consumer grade
equipment for the sake of making the equipment compact.

A connector needs to be installed on a cable in a way to minimize movement
of the soldered connections. Soldered stranded wire will break easily if
allowed to move.
When the cable jacket is secured in the metal tabs of the connector, there
should be some slack in both conductors.. not a taut straight line to the
cable, but a loose wavy length.

I try to implement shrink tubing to act as a strain relief, in addition to
the strain relief of the connector cover.
It's important to securely clamp the cable sheath/jacket with the metal tabs
on the connector.. just pinching them with pliers is by far inferior to
firmly crimping the tabs around the jacket with a hex die crimper. Hex dies
deform the metal in such a way as to make a secure, compressed restraint
that lasts.

Additionally, the extra length of shrink tubing I add will be long enough to
enclose/grip the metal crimp fully, and extend along the cable to provide
more structural strength to the cable.

Trying to implement numerous improvements in modern connectors isn't always
easy since there is rarely any wasted space in many connector bodies.

DigiKey, Mouser and numerous other suppliers have power cables with molded
connectors mounted on them.
Even that RS store chain in the USA has several right-angle connectors in
some limited styles.. typically 2.5mm and 3.2mm signal cable plugs.

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the lead and a whole cabinet falls over with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out , if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with hotmely
glue around the connector , heatchrink around, and excess squeexed out blue,
fared-off.

 

[N_Cook]

Its like the trick with inertia and (potentially safely) pulling the table
cloth from under a complete dinner service of crockery

Its a swings and roundabouts thing with elbow connectors, like on guitar
leads.
Someone trips or catches the elbowed lead and a whole cabinet falls over
with
breakage or personal injury, compared to the lead just pulling out. Same
with a laptop, lead pulls out if straight connector or almost certain
fatal breakabe with a laptop , if someone trips over an elbowed power lead.
I would go with straight in both circumstances , just reinforce with hotmelt
glue around the connector , heatshrink around, and excess squeezed-out glue,
fared-off.

 

[mike]

Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables
is a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be
placed in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like
wheel spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of
equipment and pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable
or jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up
and walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of
accident-induced damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not
accidental damage (not neccessarily what's going on with the OP's
situation).

Guess you don't have kids or pets or visitors.
You probably don't need insurance, cause you control all aspects of
your environment.

 

[N_Cook]

Nothing can be idiot-proofed, IME. If tripping over/snagging long cables is
a frequent/real problem, the equipment (laptop in the OP) needs to be placed
in a better location.. near a wall receptacle, as intended.

Pulling equipment off of tables is plain stupidity.

Extension cords running across rooms is a very bad habit, subjecting
equipment to breakage, but also a fire risk from traffic walking on cords.

Straight plugs don't pull out if the cable doesn't extend outward like wheel
spokes.. when a cable is brought around a corner of a piece of equipment and
pulled on, the plugs don't pull out, they break the cable or
jack/receptacle, which ever is weaker, or both.

In TV repair, it was common to have folks unplug a TV, then pick it up and
walk away to move it.
Broken RF input connectors on the tuners were common. I know, threaded
connector and all, but stupidity none the less.

There's no shortage of idiots fully capable, of breaking stuff which
shouldn't be broken.

An accident can happen, of course.. but after a couple of accident-induced
damage incidents, it indicates bad habits, not accidental damage (not
neccessarily what's going on with the OP's situation).

An elfin safety probability thing. An elbow plug can never have its lead
yanked and cleanly come out , whatever angle the flex lies relative to the
jack , always a potential jamming angle, compared to a straight. There is
half a chance that a straight connector will have its flex near enough axial
to the jack and come out cleanly. I would never advise a guitarist to have
an elbow 1/4 inch jack on the amp end of his guitar lead (drunken drummers
careering about on stage etc)