E
Eeyore
Kevin said:Indeed. Its just about impossible to make a profit in "pro audio" now adays.
Too much stuff on the market.
Thankfully there are still a few areas with profit left in them.
Graham
Kevin said:Indeed. Its just about impossible to make a profit in "pro audio" now adays.
Too much stuff on the market.
Kevin said:No its doesn't. Its a push/pull class AB current drive to the mosfets, and
secondly, you don't need much. 20ma class drive is way more than enough for
at least 500w at 200Khz power BW.
John said:"Pro" audio design seems like an infinite chain of stolen circuits.
Kevin said:0.01% IMD @ 20Khz/19Khz at all power levels. 1db flatness to 50Khz power BW.
I don't claim that this is necessary, but my take is that it is sufficient.
I won't buy a PA amp if it is say, 0.1% at 20khz.
As far as what I am interested in as a personal achievement goal, its
probably 0.001% IMD at 20khz, 1db flatness to 1Mhz power BW.
Kevin said:Lets not kid ourselves, "all" circuits are stolen, whatever the field. Its
that simple. Show me *any* design, and I will show you a bit of is in a
prior design. Like diff pairs, current mirrors, cascodes, are all the same
building blocks we all use.
LOL!!!Eeyore said:Jamie wrote:
You're the fool. You are nothing more than a disgusting piece of pig
excrement.
You're just jealous because you can't do it. Bloody typical of idiots.
Jamie said:Right... now go back to your room before the hall police see you
wondering around..
John said:Eeyore wrote
John said:---
Not true.
In the dim recesses of time, an idea flashed into being which was unique
and was fleshed out electromechanically into our being here, now, so
_that_ circuit wasn't stolen.
On a more mundane level, some of us work through the problems of design
without resorting to directly infringing the work of others, whether
that prior work exists or not.
John said:---
The hall police are responsible for bringing you to task for your
wandering around.
The mind police are responsible for bringing you to task for your
wondering around.
JF
John said:advantage.
Mostly.
Yours, maybe. Not mine. I hate to copy circuits, even my own.
Michael A. Terrell said:You live in your own little fantasy world where you actually have
some value.
John said:Eeyore said:More than just 'some' my friend.
This guy just gave me a reference btw.
http://www.ibd-uk.com/members/jones-martin.htm
Look at his credentials ! A totally charming chap btw and we think very alike. We
worked on 2 successful projects (one of which I turned round from a 'runaway'
into a full blown commercial success) and stay in occasional contact to this day.
They were radar projects btw lest you think I only do audio.
---
RADAR, huh?
Here's open-ocean PPI marine collision avoidance I was doing in 1972:
(View in Courier)
TX TRIG>------[MS1]---[MS2]----A
AND Y---A _ _____
RX VIDEO>-----[CLIP]-----------B NOR Y--+-->ALARM
+--B |
| _ A--+
+--Y NOR
B--+---O |
| |<-- SET
[R] O |
| |
GND +V
To start with, the SET switch is made, momentarily, causing the ALARM
signal to go false.
Then, the main bang triggers MS1, the RANGE one-shot, which triggers
MS2, the CAPTURE one-shot, on MS1's trailing edge.
In the meantime, clipped video is applied to one of the inputs of the
AND, the other input being connected to the output of MS2, so that the
AND's output will go true if there is clipped video and a high from MS2
on its inputs simultaneously.
When the output of the AND goes high it resets the RS latch made from
the two NORs, and the ALARM output will go low, causing an audible alarm
to sound, which will alert the RADAR operator (or whoever's on watch) to
the fact that an object has just been detected at the range set by MS1.
JF
Jan said:Below 20 Hz sound is not audible, but you can feel the vibration,
(recently tried that),
above 15kHz only the young can hear, above
20kHz only bats I think (and you perhaps),
then there is the speaker...
Looked for a nice electrostat few days ago, bit expensive though.
So, if I want hifi I use the Senheiser headphones.
And 3dB is easily corrected with a graphic equaliser no?
Better amps are wasted on me I am afraid.
PS
till how many MHz can YOU hear?
Vladimir said:Actually, the very low frequencies are only causing problems because of
rattling of everything around. For that matter, it is good to have the
steep highpass filter with Fc ~ 25Hz in the audio path. The very low
boom-boom usually happens at about 30..40Hz; there is little point in
going below that.
The nonlinear mixture of 19 and 20kHz will produce the clearly audible
tone at 1kHz. If you want to be reasonably linear at 15kHz, then the
bandwidth should be extended well beyond the audible range.
As you cant hear the quality difference anyway,Eeyore said:So you'd be happy with the -3dB @ 20Hz and 20kHz of the 60s and 70s ?
Graham
Jan said:Below 20 Hz sound is not audible, but you can feel the vibration,
(recently tried that), above 15kHz only the young can hear, above
20kHz only bats I think (and you perhaps), then there is the speaker...
Looked for a nice electrostat few days ago, bit expensive though.
So, if I want hifi I use the Senheiser headphones.
And 3dB is easily corrected with a graphic equaliser no?
Better amps are wasted on me I am afraid.
PS
till how many MHz can YOU hear?
Sjouke said:As you cant hear the quality difference anyway,
why not???
Oh I forgot those people with VULCAN ears, who can hear
the difference beween oxygen content in cables.......
or gold plated mains sockets.....