Playstation 2 not turning on

[LJ89]

Hello,

Last week I was feeling a bit nostalgic and went to turn on my old playstation 2. It did not turn on. No red light, no green light, no signs of life.

So I took out my multi meter and took apart the playstation.

The power board is supposed to have an input of 120Vac and an output of 12Vdc.

The board is getting 120vac, but the output is zero.

The fuse right next to the main power input is good ( has continuity)

All the capacitors look good ( no leaking, no bulging)

Nothing looks burnt.


I'm not really sure where to look next. I would consider myself a novice with electronics.

If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it !

Thankyou!

 

[LJ89]

Hello,

Last week I was feeling a bit nostalgic and went to turn on my old playstation 2. It did not turn on. No red light, no green light, no signs of life.

So I took out my multi meter and took apart the playstation.

The power board is supposed to have an input of 120Vac and an output of 12Vdc.

The board is getting 120vac, but the output is zero.

The fuse right next to the main power input is good ( has continuity)

All the capacitors look good ( no leaking, no bulging)

Nothing looks burnt.


I'm not really sure where to look next. I would consider myself a novice with electronics.

If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it !

Thankyou!

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir ELL JAY 89 . . . . . . .

WHY .? . . . . . for . . . . .does your ceramic cased AC line fuse have capacitance ? . . . . . (that's a bit abnormal . . . . .don't you know ? . . . . . . .unless, its being mere picofarads. )

MORE . . .importantly . . . . . . before the unit gets plugged into AC again . . . .go to the central heat sink strip and across from the large POWER transformer there is the Q1 HI- power transistor / FET ? that drives it.
Place metering in LOW ohms range and check all of the intra 3 terminal possibilities, to see if it is being shorted .
If no shorts, then check the F1 fuse to see if it is being dead shorted . .thats GOOD . . . .open, that's BAD.
Then, if having a good fuse, you AC power up and switch DVM metering to DC and expect a, ~ 160'ish VDC across the + and - lead ends of the l o n g black E-cap.
Come back and give us your findings . . .whilst I . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

You DARE question my precise welding expertise ? ? ? . . . . . . . . I can weld a DICK on a snowman !



.

 

[LJ89]

Hello sir.

Yes you are indeed correct , what i meant to say was the fuse has continuity. NOT CAPACITANCE.

About the 3 pronged Mosfet, I put one lead of my multimeter on one of the prongs.. and where does my other multimeter lead go? Would It go into a ground somewhere on the board?

When I was working on the casio keyboard there was these star shaped solder blobs..

Thankyou

 

[LJ89]

Sir ELL JAY 89 . . . . . . .

WHY .? . . . . . for . . . . .does your ceramic cased AC line fuse have capacitance ? . . . . . (that's a bit abnormal . . . . .don't you know ? . . . . . . .unless, its being mere picofarads. )

MORE . . .importantly . . . . . . before the unit gets plugged into AC again . . . .go to the central heat sink strip and across from the large POWER transformer there is the Q1 HI- power transistor / FET ? that drives it.
Place metering in LOW ohms range and check all of the intra 3 terminal possibilities, to see if it is being shorted .
If no shorts, then check the F1 fuse to see if it is being dead shorted . .thats GOOD . . . .open, that's BAD.
Then, if having a good fuse, you AC power up and switch DVM metering to DC and expect a, ~ 160'ish VDC across the + and - lead ends of the l o n g black E-cap.
Come back and give us your findings . . .whilst I . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

You DARE question my precise welding expertise ? ? ? . . . . . . . . I can weld a DICK on a snowman !



.

Hello again SIR,

I now understood what you wrote. And I have returned with some numbers !


I have attached a picture of the mosfet/transistor I believe you are referring to.

I believe you wanted me to meet the ohms in-between the 3 prongs, and try all different combinations. I did that, and they all read OL, WITH NO SUSTAINED BEEPING. But a few times when I put my multimeter leads on the prongs it would beep for maybe 1 second and it would than go to OL.

When I put my leads across the fuse my multimeter beeps. I believe this means it has continuity?

I put my multimeter on DC VOLTAGE and powered the board up i placed the leads on the big Capacitor - and +. It read 167Vdc.

So I unplugged it , and then went to discharge the capacitor with my multimeter lead and it sparked

So I panicked and thought maybe I damaged something. But I plugged it back in and it still reads 167Vdc.

So thats where I'm at so far.

Thankyou sir

 

[LJ89]

Hello again SIR,

I now understood what you wrote. And I have returned with some numbers !


I have attached a picture of the mosfet/transistor I believe you are referring to.

I believe you wanted me to meet the ohms in-between the 3 prongs, and try all different combinations. I did that, and they all read OL, WITH NO SUSTAINED BEEPING. But a few times when I put my multimeter leads on the prongs it would beep for maybe 1 second and it would than go to OL.

When I put my leads across the fuse my multimeter beeps. I believe this means it has continuity?

I put my multimeter on DC VOLTAGE and powered the board up i placed the leads on the big Capacitor - and +. It read 167Vdc.

So I unplugged it , and then went to discharge the capacitor with my multimeter lead and it sparked

So I panicked and thought maybe I damaged something. But I plugged it back in and it still reads 167Vdc.

So thats where I'm at so far.

Thankyou sir

I've attached 3 images