C
CROUP MONSTERATOR
if you don't want to name them outright then give us a hint. is it Br*nks,
A*T, M*nitr*nics, etc, you get the drift?
A*T, M*nitr*nics, etc, you get the drift?
if you don't want to name them outright then give us a hint. is it Br*nks,
A*T, M*nitr*nics, etc, you get the drift? <
I brive a dus said:He also said they were based out of PA and the company name is
Guardian.
I'm not sure who the exact installer was as they didn't leave a card
or anything, but that company is an authorized dealer for my
monitoring company. The website for Guardian ishttp://www.guardianprotection.com/
. It is them that I've had difficulty with. They used Guardian-
branded First Alert keypads (or at least did at the time my alarm was
installed). After my treatment so far, there's no way I'd ever use
them for monitoring, so don't worry about that. At some point I'll
probably hook it up to a monitoring company, but probably not for
awhile. Perhaps I'll leave everything as it is for now and replace it
with a modern system in a year or so. I'm just finding it hard to
justify a $150 expenditure on old hardware that few people are going
to have experience with. It's a tough decision.
Honestly, there's no way I can go after these guys. While they say on
the phone that I own the system, I have no proof that's indeed the
case. The word of some rep on the phone wouldn't hold up in any
court, so that's not the way to go. I'm going to try again in a
little while to get them to change their minds and come out and fix
the thing. If I pay them for their time to make the change I simply
don't see what the big deal is. Maybe I can get a hold of someone
more sympathetic.
As for the smoke detectors, these particular units do have 9V backup
batteries in them. There are two separate cables coming out of them,
so I think one goes back to the alarm and one to the house's breaker
panel (can't tell for sure, breaker and alarm are 4" apart and covered
with insulation). I'll try the posted method tonight to ensure that
they'll work without the alarm enabled. The house is not currently
inhabited, so there's no immediate risk. I'll make sure that's taken
care of before we move in for sure.
Yo want the location of the valbles as well?
Dog <
It appears that I'm alright with the smoke detectors. They seem to
work even with the system disabled. But it does get worse. The owner
had every exterior light on the house (save the porch light) hooked
through motion detectors controlled by the security system so I have
no exterior lighting. Guardian still claims that I own the board and
they own the programming, so I'm at an impasse with them.
If the total replacement cost was $30, I wouldn't have any problems.
Unfortunately it's not. And that leaves me with many questions. If
I'm reading the manuals properly you can't program the boards with the
standard fixed keypads. What should I be looking for in a
replacement? I can't seem to find a FA147C anywhere. Is the
equivalent Ademco model the Vista 10SE? I believe so, but I'm not
certain. I'll be able to retain all my old sensors, but will have to
replace the keypad, correct? Will any alpha keypad work or do I need
a specific one? Will the wiring run for the fixed keypad be able to
run an alpha keypad? I see the 6139 and 6160 pretty commonly. Are
the sensors compatible throughout the Vista line? For example, if I
find a Vista 20 kit or something with keypads and all would it work
with the current sensors? Since that include my exterior lighting,
I'd prefer to not replace those unless necessary.
The security system is not controlling your lights. If anything there
is an X-10 module that makes them blink. Take a picture of the
transformer and send it to [email protected]
Tell ya what --- I'll send you a Vista-15P brand new board and program
it for $100.
You need to provide the telco hookup so I can connect to it with my
down loader.
before you rip it apart figure out what the zones are and write it down. tag
the wires so you know EXACTLY where they go...then maybe take Nelson's
offer and you can get it back up and running with new board.
I am familiar with 142's 162's and current panels but have never seen aThat could be it, then. I see there are motion sensors on the lights
themselves that don't trigger, so I figured they're all hooked in
together. I can get you pictures of anything tomorrow, but I'm not
exactly sure what you're asking for. The AC to DC transformer is
hidden behind insulation and I can't get at it, but I can have picture
of the system box itself or the exterior lighting. The lights
themselves are flush mounted and caulked, otherwise I probably would
have pulled them out already to see what could be done with them.
This I might take you up on. I'm considering going with a telco DSL
internet solution which provides an incoming phone line at no charge,
so you'd be able to dial in. The telco said they could have a line up
within a week. Give me a few days to get things in order and I'll get
back to you. I really appreciate the offer.
I see where each zone connects on the board itself. I could tag the
wires so they go to the same zones on the new board, but I still
wouldn't know what each zone does. Is there a way to determine what
zones monitor what sensors when the alarm is completely
nonfunctional? I can bring up programming mode, but pretty much every
setting I tried to access I was locked out of. I remember seeing a
test mode, perhaps I'm not locked out of that.
This I might take you up on. I'm considering going with a telco DSL
internet solution which provides an incoming phone line at no charge,
so you'd be able to dial in. The telco said they could have a line up
within a week. Give me a few days to get things in order and I'll get
back to you. I really appreciate the offer.