Denon AVR-1912 E2/EA

[Michael Studio1]

the phone camera is sensitive to IR light so it shows up nicely on the phone screen in camera mode

Thank you Davenn - I didn't know that. The things I've learnt on this Site are amazing! Michael Studio1 UK 07:24 Sunday 24-06-2018

 

[Michael Studio1]

When its "Reset", I believe your presets are lost and need to be reprogrammed. So you probably need to walk through the set-up procedure.

It looks like you should also run the diagnostic mode (10). This should help shine some light on where your loosing your signals.

Yes, John, and I am somewhat concerned by what is written on Page7 - 'Cautions In Servicing' - reading this diligently - as you suggested - I find I may inadvertently, by doing a 'Factory Reset', have lost that all-important 'setting' which is mentioned - not realising it had one even. This may present a large problem. I have not been able to connect to the T/v which has an HDMI input - for it is the family T/v and this would restrict its use over the week-end. As to the 'Diagnostic Mode - No.10, I mentioned having tried this - only to find it has the same access as No.11 - 'Remote ID Setup Mode' - how can one distinguish between the two? Michael Studio1 UK 06:25BST 25-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Factory Reset', have lost that all-important 'setting' which is mentioned - not realising it had one even. This may present a large problem. I have not been able to connect to the T/v which has an HDMI input

I don't think it's a problem at all, you merely have to go through the set-up process like it was a new unit. This will ask you things like what inputs are associated with what feature.

I do think your going to have to eventually hook this up to a tv to properly complete the set up. That is, unless you can read everything on the Fl screen.

But first, Have you confirmed that the ICs are getting their power? In other words, pins for Vcc and respective Gnd pins?

I think I'd also try and see if the radio functions.

 

[Michael Studio1]

I don't think it's a problem at all, you merely have to go through the set-up process like it was a new unit. This will ask you things like what inputs are associated with what feature.

I do think your going to have to eventually hook this up to a tv to properly complete the set up. That is, unless you can read everything on the Fl screen.

But first, Have you confirmed that the ICs are getting their power? In other words, pins for Vcc and respective Gnd pins?

I think I'd also try and see if the radio functions.

Thanks for your thoughts on this, John. Much appreciated. I have indeed checked that the IC's (those in the Audio train from CX4 to the 7Channel Amp) and it goes something like this: IC801 -> IC30 -> IC21 -> IC22 -> U8 -> IC29 -> IC28 -> IC801 (again) -> 7Channel Amp. All IC's are getting their required Vcc or whatever, along with their proper GND. So all that is in order. I was hopeful of your input at this stage, John, and have not as yet commandeered the family T/v - but shall do so tomorrow. What is this Fl screen you mention? The AVR's screen? And - why do they make such a 'to-do' on Page7 about 'User Settings'? Michael Studio1 UK 21:46BST 25-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

What is this Fl screen you mention? The AVR's screen? And - why do they make such a 'to-do' on Page7 about 'User Settings'?

Yes, I believe FL they speak of just means Fluorescent AVR display screen.

I don't think they are making an ado about it, but "Cautions" could be changed to notes. The only "Caution" is user settings will be lost and it should default to factory settings.
Notice it doesn't say "only" initialize when X parts are replaced. It's saying that initialization is necessary after X parts are replaced.

As a side note; HDMi inputs and outputs can be finicky as far as passing audio. I've seen them hang many times when trying to play movies and had to cycle power off/on to fix.
If you can, it'd be better to try analog inputs via RCA jacks first before experimenting with digital inputs.

I'm also curious if you can hear anything from plugging in headphones.

Another thing to remember, The AVR audio may be inhibited if inputs and zones aren't defined in the user settings.

 

[Michael Studio1]

Yes, I believe FL they speak of just means Fluorescent AVR display screen.

I don't think they are making an ado about it, but "Cautions" could be changed to notes. The only "Caution" is user settings will be lost and it should default to factory settings.
Notice it doesn't say "only" initialize when X parts are replaced. It's saying that initialization is necessary after X parts are replaced.

As a side note; HDMi inputs and outputs can be finicky as far as passing audio. I've seen them hang many times when trying to play movies and had to cycle power off/on to fix.
If you can, it'd be better to try analog inputs via RCA jacks first before experimenting with digital inputs.

I'm also curious if you can hear anything from plugging in headphones.

Another thing to remember, The AVR audio may be inhibited if inputs and zones aren't defined in the user settings.

Thank you, John, I feel the ball is firmly in my court. I haven't tried the Headphone Jack for some time and have only been using the VAUX phono jacks to inject Signal Tones with the FeelTech FY3200S Dual Channel Arbitrary Signal Generator/Counter (I'm looking forward sometime to trying the 'Counter' facility) This I preset to 700cps, 1V. for VAUXR and 500cps, 1V. for VAUXL. The Remote works and can change the Inputs to 'whatever'. But, then, so can the Left Knob on the front. So I guess any other attributes the Remote has can also be implemented. I'm just concerned now about getting the Audio Signal to once more pass through IC801 from pin83(VAUXR) to pin55(A/D_R) and pin84(VAUXL) to pin54(A/D_L). Then I shall know that IC801 isn't 'fried' - the +7V. and -7V. and DGND are OK. I will see today what connecting to the T/v. with HDMI cable will prove and do another Factory Reset - also check the defined user settings. Michael Studio1 UK 06:17BST 26-06-2018

 

[Michael Studio1]

On the Lab Bench. AVR powered up by the Remote. The FL. screen started as STEREO TV so I changed it to STEREO VAUX. IC801 is NOT 'fried' (wonderful) the Signal Tones are leaving it at pins54 and 55 and arriving at the ADC - IC30 pins1&2. Was it something you said? (!) Or something I did? (right, for once!) A bit of both I'm sure. Plugging the Headphones in, the FL.screen shows: H/P INPUT ON but there's no SIgnals. Turning main Vol.Ctrl up makes no change. Removing Headphones the FL.screen shows H/P INPUT OFF. So that works at least. In order to follow the signals Digitally I must learn how to properly use the Pocket Oscilloscope. Next to connect to the T/v via an HDMI cable. Michael Studio1 UK 10:10BST (Coffee time! - fire up the La Pavoni - Euro Piccola! - Dark French Roast) 26-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Ok, somewhat encouraging news.

Have you tried FM stereo?

I recall there was a mode (bypass, Direct or something similar) that IC801 bypasses IC30 and sends analog audio directly through to the amp. That may be a better place to start before perusing the digital realm.

 

[Michael Studio1]

Ok, somewhat encouraging news.

Have you tried FM stereo?

I recall there was a mode (bypass, Direct or something similar) that IC801 bypasses IC30 and sends analog audio directly through to the amp. That may be a better place to start before perusing the digital realm.

I haven't tried FM Stereo. I have, up until now, been concentrating on getting the Signals to IC30 (ADC) However this Mode 'Bypass Direct' is something I haven't found - and didn't know it existed. As for IC801 this seems to be OK (phew!) and does some pretty amazing things I believe. I can quite imagine there may well be a Digital By-pass - which I must find! I think this must be related to the Rooting Powder I mentioned. Thanks for that! I have tried HDMI connection to the T/v but got no-where - except to discover the Denon Remote could directly change settings on our T/v. I am still skeptical over those two Modes, 10 and 11 Page19, being accessed by the same buttons. Michael Studio1 UK 19:56BST 26-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Michael. Take another look at the audio diagnostic section. Then read section 4.5 on page 28. You want to follow item 1 which will emulate fig 7 on page35.
If you follow all the modes/procedures of item 1 IC801 should output pins 21 and 23 to be sent to amp section.

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

 

[Michael Studio1]

View attachment 41734 View attachment 41735

Thanks, John, I will study this and see what I can make of it! There's always something new to get teeth into isn't there! Michael Studio1

Michael. Take another look at the audio diagnostic section. Then read section 4.5 on page 28. You want to follow item 1 which will emulate fig 7 on page35.
If you follow all the modes/procedures of item 1 IC801 should output pins 21 and 23 to be sent to amp section.

Interestingly, I have found the Digital pin9 of IC30 gives an audible combination of the two Signal Tones from my analog speaker. This means I can follow the digital path in this way. At U8 pin100 & 103 as well as pin86 (digital out) it is the same. IC29 (page126) is the DAC - but difficult to audio-probe as it's mounted on the FOIL_SIDE of HMDI_B'D. Now I am trying to follow your reasoned directions about Zones &c. But I cannot make head nor tail of it - this is outside my 'comfort zone' So I need help. My remote is a DENON RC-1156. 'ZONE' is the top Left button and says 'SELECT' over it. Continued press/release walks the 'light' through: [M] > [Z2] > [Z3] > [M] again. That's the cycle. So I pressed [AMP] button (nothing seemed to happen though) then I pressed that 'ZONE' button twice and arrived at [Z2]. But how can I get [ZONE OFF]? Unless it's the white button at the bottom of the Remote next to [INPUT] Then . . . Michael Studio1 UK 17:33BST 27-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

You first have to enter diagnostic mode before following that section.

It seems you'd better off seeing if you can first discern what works on this thing before tracing digital stuff. We haven't even diagnosed that the amp section is working.
If you can't get an analog signal through this thing you need to look elsewhere.

Sort of like checking out a used car and listening to the radio before finding out if the darn thing even starts.

 

[Michael Studio1]

You first have to enter diagnostic mode before following that section.

It seems you'd better off seeing if you can first discern what works on this thing before tracing digital stuff. We haven't even diagnosed that the amp section is working.
If you can't get an analog signal through this thing you need to look elsewhere.

Sort of like checking out a used car and listening to the radio before finding out if the darn thing even starts.

Most people, John, I believe, when looking at a used car start kicking the tyres. Maybe it tells them something. Not me. Like "You first have to enter diagnostic mode" . . . How? To know that is a start - and I didn't know that. I fear I've been looking at this AVR as though it were full of ECC83's not IC's and because of that I'm lost on procedure. So what is this "diagnostic mode"? How is it accessed? What does it do? What I have found out is very interesting and you have been my 'Mentor' and I feel truly privileged for that and hope you will continue. The latest thing I have found is that the Digital Section is still audible with an audio amp. Interesting. I had a horrid suspicion I was going to need an Oscilloscope in order to trace the signals. However, before that bit of electronic enlightenment I also discovered that IC801 (Page 114!!) can be remotely switched - and that it wasn't 'fried' after all. So I could have saved the $10. odd and not sourced a replacement on ebay. But I simply cannot understand "Diagnostic Mode" and Page28 section 4.5 with its instructions is, to me, an anathema. The instructions do not mean anything. Sorry if I am being somewhat prolix in this but this is my problem! Michael Studio1 UK 19:58BST 27-06-2018

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Should be simpler than triodes or pentodes. Section 4.1 on page 27.

I'm just following the manual but it seems straightforward. All I can add is to exactly follow the steps outlined there.

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Michael.
Try this. Hold buttons "Preset1" and "Status" down together and while they are down, hit the On/standby button.
The Q1,Q2,Q3 should be on like this.

 

[Michael Studio1]

Should be simpler than triodes or pentodes. Section 4.1 on page 27.

I'm just following the manual but it seems straightforward. All I can add is to exactly follow the steps outlined there.

Thank you John. That was a 'rant' by me about my inability to comprehend - so your suggestion is greatly appreciated! I have both Manuals - User & Service, downloaded and printed (I print 'one-sided' so I can re-use the reverse to print on if things go terminal!) At this stage which manual do you think is the best to follow? Michael Studio1 UK 06:21BST 28-06-2018

 

[Michael Studio1]

Michael.
Try this. Hold buttons "Preset1" and "Status" down together and while they are down, hit the On/standby button.
The Q1,Q2,Q3 should be on like this.View attachment 41747

Many thanks for this, John. I am wondering whether, at this point, the repair is complete? So now to follow your path described above? Michael

 

[Michael Studio1]

Michael.
Try this. Hold buttons "Preset1" and "Status" down together and while they are down, hit the On/standby button.
The Q1,Q2,Q3 should be on like this.View attachment 41747

I did this, not using the remote, and got: [ REMOTE ID ? ] on the FL screen. This is that Special Mode Setting on Page19 I was on about - but is it No.10 (Diagnostic mode) or No.11 (Remote ID Setup mode) ? Both are the same instruction - which doesn't make sense to me. Maybe I should try using the remote red [ON] button whilst, at the same time, pressing and holding on buttons "Preset1" and "Status" - to see if I get any other reply. Just tried that but get the same reply [ REMOTE ID ? ] Michael 06:41BST

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

NO, not the same instruction. For remote Id you first hit power then hold the other buttons for 3 seconds. Sounds like you need to simultaneously hit all three. Try playing with it until you see the Q lights come on.
Yes, it's the AVR buttons, not the remote buttons.