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8V 40mA bi-pin lamp (Marantz)

B

Bill Palmer

"Leif Neland"


** Same as you - pig brain.




** Yep.





** No **YOU** need to do the fucking test !!!!!!!

Cos I have done it many times already

You fucking, asinine, Kraut pile of shit.

Now, now little Phildo... Your mummy (she ain't a very good lay), won't
approve of language Like that. Especially from a mouth freshly filled with
Daddy's cum.
 
P

Phil Allison

"dave"
If you see "flicker" at 30 Hz you must hate television.

** Huh ???

The refresh rate of CRT based TVs is at least 50Hz - because of
interlaced scanning.

There is still massive strobing if you wave an object in front of one, as
the dots / stripes go dark long before the next refresh cycle.

A LED ( any colour ) pulsed at 30Hz flickers obviously - this stops at
about 40 to 45 Hz.


.... Phil
 
T

Tim Schwartz

Are you sure they are bi-pin lamps? I own a couple Marantz receivers of that vintage (2215 and 2275), and they used "fuse lamps" which have the same dimensions as a 3AG fuse.


The fuse lamps are readily available on eBay. You can also get them from All Electronics in Van Nuys, California; the 8V lamps are $1 each or $8.50 for 10, while 6V and 12V lamps are slightly cheaper.
There are the source indicators (PHONO, FM, AM, TAPE, AUX, ....) NOT the
dial scale lamps, which are 'fuse type'.

--Tim
 
There are the source indicators (PHONO, FM, AM, TAPE, AUX, ....) NOT the
dial scale lamps, which are 'fuse type'.

--Tim

I guess I never had to replace any of those in my sets.....;-)

I hesitate to enter the fray, but if I thought 12V lamps were brigth enough, I would just use those. That might be easier to find. Operating at 8V, they would probably last a very long time (the GE rule of thumb from the middle of the last century was the twelfth power of the voltage).
 
T

Trevor Wilson

I guess I never had to replace any of those in my sets.....;-)

I hesitate to enter the fray, but if I thought 12V lamps were brigth
enough, I would just use those. That might be easier to find.
Operating at 8V, they would probably last a very long time (the GE
rule of thumb from the middle of the last century was the twelfth
power of the voltage).

**Except that is a REALLY dumb idea. The dial scale in the old Marantz
recievers is blue. Incandescent lamps emit very little energy in the
blue end of the spectrum (which is why Marantz had to use large numbers
of lamps in the first place - Technics and Pioneer models of the time
managed to use two or three lamps, whilst Marantz employed as many as
9). Operating an IC lamp at reduced Voltage will reduce blue output
still further, thus causing the dial scale to be quite dark and possibly
unusable. Blue LEDs are the perfect solution. Indefinite life-span, low
heat dissipation and perfect colour rendition. White LEDs are also
excellent, but with a shorter life-span and sligtly inferior colour
rendition.
 
**Except that is a REALLY dumb idea. The dial scale in the old Marantz
recievers is blue.

Maybe, maybe not. If I had one in my inventory/junque box, I would consider it a cheeap expeeriment and give it a try. If I could get one for about a dollar, I would consider taking a chance. You may have a differnt tolerance for taking this kind of risk.
 
T

Trevor Wilson

Maybe, maybe not. If I had one in my inventory/junque box, I would
consider it a cheeap expeeriment and give it a try. If I could get
one for about a dollar, I would consider taking a chance. You may
have a differnt tolerance for taking this kind of risk.

**It's not a risk. It's just a dumb idea that won't provide any
worthwhile benefit.
 
P

Phil Allison

**Except that is a REALLY dumb idea. The dial scale in the old Marantz
recievers is blue.

Maybe, maybe not. If I had one in my inventory/junque box, I would consider
it a cheeap expeeriment and give it a try. If I could get one for about a
dollar, I would consider taking a chance.

** Wide angle, 5mm blue LEDs sell for about $1.00 each.

The correct 8V bi-pin lamps will cost you more.

You will need one resistor ( 470 ohms to 1kohms) for each LED and just
ignore the insane crap here from AD etc about visible flicker at 60Hz.


.... Phil
 
P

Phil Allison

"Arfa FUCKWIT Daily"
No, it's YOU who either does not read,


** FFS - you REPEATED the info in MY post back to me !!!

You pompous, bullshitting, fucking nut case.




..... Phil
 
P

Phil Allison

"Arfa Fuckwit Daily"
"Black Iccy"
Each LED will flicker at half the supply frequency,


** FFS - wake up you IMBECILE !!!!!!!!!!

Half wave rectification = 50 /60 Hz ripple.

Full wave = 100 /120 Hz ripple.

Dead horses are lining up in drives right now ...



..... Phil
 
W

William Sommerwerck

"Arfa Daily" wrote in message
You are, quite simply, mentally ill, which is why most of the time,
I'm prepared to let you get on with it.

One of the things I learned in screenwriting school was that it makes no sense
to tell stories about good versus evil -- specifically, stories about a
person's internal conflict over good and evil. The reason is that human beings
always think that whatever they do is good -- or at least, not wrong.

Regardless of /why/ Phil jumps so abruptly between Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde, both
perspectives seem right /to him/. And no amount of rationality or arguing will
enable him to see any differently.

Similarly, when a person in another group who'd repeatedly abused me and
others, in the nastiest manner possible, said that he'd been only teasing
me -- and why didn't I take it in good humor? -- it became obvious that
(whether or not he's "disturbed") he could not step outside his perceptions
and recognize that his behavior was beyond the pale.
 
P

Phil Allison

"William Sommerwerck"
Regardless of /why/ Phil jumps so abruptly between Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde,

** No such thing is going on, at all.

AD is mentally defective, in about 5 ways at once.

He cannot be reasoned with as he is TOTALLY unaware of any of his defects.
He posts utter crap all the time and does not even read the corrections -
his bloated ego blinds him to the value of them.

Usenet is completely infested with people like AD, they cannot be persuaded
to leave and no amount of " outing " or verbal abuse has any effect.

In the real world, it is easy enough to avoid the likes of AD ( unless he is
your boss or teacher ) - but usenet provides no way of dealing with them.

Big mistake in how the scheme was first set up.

Apparently, Facebook and Twitter is not much better.



.... Phil
 
B

Black Iccy

Each LED will flicker at half the supply frequency, but each will emit light
on opposite halves of the AC waveform. Thus, if the two LEDs are physically
close together, the flicker from each will be mitigated by the other.

Arfa


This whole argument is silly but, pardon me, that is NOT what you said Arfa
(thus my reason for jumping in) and you appear to be combining two distinct
posts.

Message-ID: said:
That said, if two LEDs are used in inverse parallel as you suggested, rather
than paralleling with a conventional diode or just relying on the reverse
blocking of the LED, flicker is not an issue, as each LED will produce light
on opposite half cycles.

If this (back-to-back) is done, the "flash" frequency (periodic rate if you
prefer) will be 100 times / sec. Correct? Two flashes per complete sine?
Still only 1 flash per each diode per full cycle of course but most certainly
flash pulsing will not be halved under any conditions. Doubled in fact.

And just for kickers, the forward conduction breakdown from each diode, in
turn, ought to be lower than the reverse destruction breakdown voltage, in my
experience anyway. Therefore a single dropping resistor would be effective.

But at a later post said:
Which is exactly what I said. If running them on AC, they are fine as long
as the series resistor is of sufficient value to limit the forward current,
and the reverse voltage on the opposite half cycle does not exceed the
rather low PIV that LEDs tend to have.
So far so good
That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see, but some of us
can, or by putting another LED in inverse parallel, which will conduct on
the opposite half cycle producing light, and clamping the reverse voltage
across the first diode to the value of the forward voltage of the second
diode, different, of course for different colours.

Now what do you mean by that? Piggying a standard .6 V drop diode across
a dual, reversed set? That would circumvent 1 of the diodes getting a
sufficiently high forward voltage bias. In that case, we are back to half-wave
operation at the line frequency (whatever that may be). BUT, it (the flashes)
will never be at half the line frequency (which Phil defines as the repetition
rate).

OR do you mean having ...

Just a single LED with conduction in a particular direction but which is being
shunted by a reverse diode so that the LED's being protected from reverse
over-voltage? If so, then the same conditions as just outlined, still apply.

But, whichever viewpoint you deem more accurate/intended, indeed even if you
reject both, I repeat the section of your post for emphasis ....
That aspect can be mitigated by
having a conventional diode in inverse parallel, but this will result in a
flicker at half the supply frequency that Phil can't see, but some of us
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

No sir. Never *half* the supply frequency. That would mean 25 or 30 pulses/sec
for standard 50~ or 60~ supplies. Power might well not be consumed for the
full input cycle - a fact which we acknowledge by using the term 'duty factor'
or 'duty cycle'. Irrelevant what Phil sees -)

Reducing to absurdity: A simple transformer fed from a 50~ source with a
secondary output sufficient to produce forward conduction will produce 50
flashes/sec. Not half. Not 25. Now, if we'd full-wave rectified, we'd get 100
FPS from a single diode.
I'm outa here.
 
P

Phil Allison

"Black Iccy"
And just for kickers, the forward conduction breakdown from each diode, in
turn, ought to be lower than the reverse destruction breakdown voltage, in
my
experience anyway. Therefore a single dropping resistor would be
effective.

** For interest sake, I checked a few 5mm white LEDs in stock for reverse
breakdown.

Each exceeded 21 volts with reverse current under 3uA ( maybe nothing)

Be fine with a 12.6V AC heater supply and ONE resistor.

There is NO flicker.


.... Phil
 
P

Phil Allison

"Ian Field = Fool"
More importantly, you have to protect it on the alternate half-cycles, the
series resistor doesn't usually drop enough voltage at the reverse leakage
current to protect the typically 5V PIV.


** The spec of 5V is a nonsense.

Red LEDs take at least 9V reverse before any current flowed.

The white ones I have in stock took 22V with no current.



.... Phil
 
L

Leif Neland

Gareth Magennis formulerede Sunday:
It is to some of us. I find the PWM'd LED flicker of road works cone-top
beacons very annoying, as well as the flicker from PWM'd LED stop and tail
lights on some makes of car.




There's an app note here for a Stop/Tail IC.

http://www.maximintegrated.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/4316
(It claims an operating frequency of 200 Hz, but this is not necessarily what
is currently out there)


Seems a bit Sledgehammer To Crack a Nut to me, but there you go.
My current Stop and Tail technology is 2 wires and a cheap easily replaceable
dual filament bulb.
Which uses more energy, and breaks several times more often than LED.
Many drivers seems to lazy to check or fix their taillights.

Leif
 
Getting away with a single static test is one thing - continuous repetitive
negative half-cycles might have a more tangible effect on LED life
expectancy.

Gotta agree with Phil, The 5V spec is nonsense. I haven't found an LEDs that (reverse bias) avalanche at any voltage less than 20V. If no current flows then what damage is done?

Phil, do you perhaps know the part number of the red LED that could only take 9V of reverse bias? I'd like to order some.

Oh.. most of the LED's I looked at took over 100 V of reverse bias till they avalanched.

George H.
 
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