Wireless switch / outlet ~ RIP

[Dino Nucci]

Hello all.

My switch / outlet has simply stopped working, no drops, no water, no heat, nothing, to either the switch or the receiver / plug.

Info:

• When the remote was pressed the receiver used to audibly "click" (and doesn't now).
• The LED on the receiver would light up when plugged into an outlet (and doesn't now).
• Yes, I've tried a new battery.

Besides prayers, the only thing I could add: There was a power surge recently. That surge caused a TV plugged into the same outlet as this now-broken receiver, to power down.

Westek RFK100LC/RFK101LC Wall Mounted Switch and Plug-in Receiver (channel E)

• Amazon link: http://a.co/hEo58jN

Thanks in advance,
Dino

 

[kellys_eye]

This is a difficult one to advise on mainly because the receiver unit uses what's called a capacitive-dropper circuit to develop the 'low voltage' necessary to operate the receiver electronics. As a result, unless you know precisely what you're doing and exercise the appropriate caution then things could get dangerous.

But to be more specific, can you get a better focus picture, especially around the area of C12 which, to my eye and possibly the detriment of the image, looks to be slightly 'bulged' at the top.

 

[Chucky1992]

I know this is an old thread but I have the same issue. Power went out briefly and suddenly the receiver will not work. Battery is good. I’ve done some circuit board work but am a novice so a lot of this thread is over my head. Can anyone look at “Z1” and identify it from the previous photos posted? I cannot get mine to load. And can you tell me how to test it?

 

[Chucky1992]

 

[Bluejets]

Z1 would be a zener diode and test same as standard diode in-so-far as dodgy or not.
Further testing as far as voltage would require either a component tester off Ebay for example, or build yourself a zener diode tester (relatively simple to do).

Your looks to be physically broken though.....??

Most faults in these capacitve droppers are to do with (in this instance ) c13.
Again test with a component tester or a capacitor test meter(out of circuit).

 

[Chucky1992]

Z1 would be a zener diode and test same as standard diode in-so-far as dodgy or not.
Further testing as far as voltage would require either a component tester off Ebay for example, or build yourself a zener diode tester (relatively simple to do).

Your looks to be physically broken though.....??

Most faults in these capacitve droppers are to do with (in this instance ) c13.
Again test with a component tester or a capacitor test meter(out of circuit).

Thank you. I was actually thinking it appeared broken. I do have a test meter and in diode mode it gets the same results. 0005mv. I am figuring that means it is bad. Now trying to figure out a way to identify it and purchase one. I don’t think they are expensive so if it doesn’t work, not big loss and I learned something. I’ve ordered a replacement switch and will be putting a surge protector on it.

 

[Nanren888]

Zenner diodes are often used to create a particular, controlled voltage drop or threshold. Hence they come in a wide range of "zenner" voltages.
For things to go well, you need to get wone of the right voltage.

 

[Chucky1992]

Thank you. It’s so small that I am having a great deal of difficulty identifying it. The markings on it appear to be either “LM4749A” or “LN4745A” and below that is either an “ST” or “5T”. Any guidance on this? With it being glass and so small, the characters are difficult to read.

 

[Chucky1992]

Looked at it again and it is IN4749A and under that is likely 5T.

 

[Bluejets]

According to data sheets that would be 24v and 1W.

https://datasheetspdf.com/pdf/515451/FairchildSemiconductor/IN4749A/1

These little component testers are invaluable at times.......
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Multifunction-LCR-TC1-1-8-TFT-Decoder-IR-Transistor-Tester-Component-Meter-AU/164582038265?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item2651da9af9:g:bIkAAOSwl3Vf2Ibm&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkfOCvCjTOBWK8pwriaolq5ttg8gz64HTUgqtKfDz3wgds9ZMYdc1CAvJq9BnNWLioGngc9VX01slbs%2BPtKf%2BhCaymmGiEk4aK8MFzalS2J5sIjqrKagSsK0utcRmLm39opQFjMbsyo%2BA%2BqybsTpOOoJtWEJESkbVzlvAMzMW2H5w1rN8zKL6KoUd5Tr1J0JXUIRrNtShQ%2B2r5EnqHnCNh%2B1YioxUJzPEfdYJJM7HWEN9qK32dyEplkljOamRkgHnGKgF61lMk6Fq%2Bq9A9yHVcnMFtlC1aKDGp%2BP9q61WqgmD8vZTnvoyBbyQVCHIekI0rRbMTfcpJ2cbnOapmaMGV2yqw%2BpBQU2oTrYc4HBwVlJhDko%2FbOHd4kcjwhtZQzAeOTmbCNfdpkehexnpkER8oMF6g7xMLTt26m7c6yGczkq2wiBGa4apoeHWGQWhrqYBeYNcbxFWmtKua2B62Fdw55SU6UOkZey3X7UgpHUo5z17kq9pD8Rc2oFAdUVZNgbipnqY1pnPT36MLv7Ktl25h2RPIAvFoydKXNqwIW3balpKavppJFGOEKOr6%2B4H8RgfeDKoBnf9MvJp30%2BJQ5R8Tq0%2F3bPcotPpCtg37Bepx%2FvDdoMXHn%2BJ3v3nKQPIc36kRYyk8nCd2FZw%2B9VMYr1hjZR2PX63EtpbVI7i0UzTKuWskF5pE9074pHVT%2Fr%2Beb7M6OWQgqfFSF13JhmPl%2ByxAmvuozUEpDgWHyEmMmkzYZ1VoQdS6H%2FjbybdBW%2BvB6Xh%2B6%2BhErM2JwYBeeaAHYPD9ng%3D%3D|cksum:16458203826573988fc35ac14e4ca492895d83c8b5d6|ampidL_CLK|clp:2334524&frcectupt=true

 

[Chucky1992]

I’m sure this is a stupid question..so as long as the replacement diode has part number “1N4749A” I should be ok? Wasn’t sure if the 5T is of any significance.

 

[Bluejets]

No idea what the 5T is but the 1N xxxx number means what it means.

 

[Chucky1992]

Thank you for your guidance. I figure I’ve nothing to loose by trying it anyway. Perhaps with a fire extinguisher near by.