12V Rechargeble Fan Circuit Problem

[Nauman Muhammad]

I have 12v Dc rechargeable fan SUNCA LIDO 2608. It used sealed lead acid batteries 2 x 6V 6AH .. I bought replacement batteries which 6V 4.5AH as 6AH are not available in market. Will these work? Furthermore while replacing batteries I did something wrong and now there is no power in circuit even with old batteries. I checked the circuit and made its fuse direct. While checking it directly I also burnt a little circuit. Now only with old batteries I can get the light and fan on for a second or two, but when I connect to electricity there is no power or even when I connect it with new batteries there is also no power.

I have checked that power from batteries is reaching to circuit but not moving forward in circuit properly. Which part should I replace? Please see the picture attached.

 

[dorke]

What "little circuit" have you burnt?
Do you have a DMM and know how to use it?
There are signs of "rework/soldering" on the print, are these your doings?

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

Haha actually this was burnt by my dad, he shorted battery terminals, I tried to connect it directly. And yes this soldering work is done by me. The circular small white wire is use instead of fuse which I saw was broken. Rest two wires one from battery to and other one from capicator are used to connect directly the broken print. Now Light and fan runs for just a second and then switches but only with 2 x 6v 6ah battery and not with direct ac plugged in or with new batteries 2 x 6v 4.5ah.

I dont have a DMM as I am accountant by profession but I love electronic works.

What "little circuit" have you burnt?
Do you have a DMM and know how to use it?
There are sings of "rework/soldering" on the print ,are these your doings?

 

[73's de Edd]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .

I dont have a DMM as I am accountant by profession but I love electronic works.

Better borrow someones DVM if you expect to make your "electronics work".

I took a crop out of one of your boards photos . . . for looking at a heat stressed area.
INITIALLY check out my YELLOW marked up areas . . . . with the RED star area appearing the worst.
See if you don't have some wire components leads that have darkened from heat /oxidation/arcing and are now just floating within their solder blobs.
Use a bright light, magnifier and with a slight wiggle from the other side of the component, it should be apparent if that lead is floating /or /loose.
Check ALL of the leads and SOLDER JOINTS on that board closely.
If you find fault . . . . this just may have been the cause and onset of your problems.
Your optional battery choice should just give shorter usage time.
FIO . . . . was the fuse clip just totally removed ?
You are going to need to upgrade your soldering expertise.

Your Photo Reference :

73's de Edd


.

 

[Herschel Peeler]

I have 12v Dc rechargeable fan SUNCA LIDO 2608. It used sealed lead acid batteries 2 x 6V 6AH .. I bought replacement batteries which 6V 4.5AH as 6AH are not available in market. Will these work? Furthermore while replacing batteries I did something wrong and now there is no power in circuit even with old batteries. I checked the circuit and made its fuse direct. While checking it directly I also burnt a little circuit. Now only with old batteries I can get the light and fan on for a second or two, but when I connect to electricity there is no power or even when I connect it with new batteries there is also no power.

I have checked that power from batteries is reaching to circuit but not moving forward in circuit properly. Which part should I replace? Please see the picture attached.

View attachment 26731 View attachment 26732 View attachment 26733 View attachment 26734 View attachment 26735 View attachment 26736

Do you have a meter and know how to check transistors and diodes?

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .

I dont have a DMM as I am accountant by profession but I love electronic works.

Better borrow someones DVM if you expect to make your "electronics work".

I took a crop out of one of your boards photos . . . for looking at a heat stressed area.
INITIALLY check out my YELLOW marked up areas . . . . with the RED star area appearing the worst.
See if you don't have some wire components leads that have darkened from heat /oxidation/arcing and are now just floating within their solder blobs.
Use a bright light, magnifier and with a slight wiggle from the other side of the component, it should be apparent if that lead is floating /or /loose.
Check ALL of the leads and SOLDER JOINTS on that board closely.
If you find fault . . . . this just may have been the cause and onset of your problems.
Your optional battery choice should just give shorter usage time.
FIO . . . . was the fuse clip just totally removed ?
You are going to need to upgrade your soldering expertise.

Your Photo Reference :

73's de Edd


.

Thanks, checking them right, will probably resolder. Fuse was just like a light which was soldered and I have removed it because it was broken.

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

Do you have a meter and know how to check transistors and diodes?

I don't have a meter.. :/

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .

I dont have a DMM as I am accountant by profession but I love electronic works.

Better borrow someones DVM if you expect to make your "electronics work".

I took a crop out of one of your boards photos . . . for looking at a heat stressed area.
INITIALLY check out my YELLOW marked up areas . . . . with the RED star area appearing the worst.
See if you don't have some wire components leads that have darkened from heat /oxidation/arcing and are now just floating within their solder blobs.
Use a bright light, magnifier and with a slight wiggle from the other side of the component, it should be apparent if that lead is floating /or /loose.
Check ALL of the leads and SOLDER JOINTS on that board closely.
If you find fault . . . . this just may have been the cause and onset of your problems.
Your optional battery choice should just give shorter usage time.
FIO . . . . was the fuse clip just totally removed ?
You are going to need to upgrade your soldering expertise.

Your Photo Reference :

73's de Edd


.

 

[Herschel Peeler]

You are not in the continental United States? Is a cheap meter available where you are? Pay as little as possible. Your needs are not major. US$10.00 or so.

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .

I dont have a DMM as I am accountant by profession but I love electronic works.

Better borrow someones DVM if you expect to make your "electronics work".

I took a crop out of one of your boards photos . . . for looking at a heat stressed area.
INITIALLY check out my YELLOW marked up areas . . . . with the RED star area appearing the worst.
See if you don't have some wire components leads that have darkened from heat /oxidation/arcing and are now just floating within their solder blobs.
Use a bright light, magnifier and with a slight wiggle from the other side of the component, it should be apparent if that lead is floating /or /loose.
Check ALL of the leads and SOLDER JOINTS on that board closely.
If you find fault . . . . this just may have been the cause and onset of your problems.
Your optional battery choice should just give shorter usage time.
FIO . . . . was the fuse clip just totally removed ?
You are going to need to upgrade your soldering expertise.

Your Photo Reference :

73's de Edd


.

You are not in the continental United States? Is a cheap meter available where you are? Pay as little as possible. Your needs are not major. US$10.00 or so.

I am from Pakistan. Ordered one in attached pic from aliexpress. Is it good enough?

 

[dorke]

It is probably the worst dirt-cheap DMM sold worldwide, but it will do.

 

[73's de Edd]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .


That unit should serve these measuring purposes adequately, and with its small size it can be stored away on the same shelf that you now have your accounting abacus.

The board that you are working with seems to have the charging circuitry and battery switching circuitry . . .at that relay area . . .which solder joints I had you examining.
The other board seems to be related to timing and is connected to this power board via the 5 wire cable.
We can hope that nothing was affected on that other board, since it is more complex than this one .
Poor, floating solder joints or a pitted relay are possibilities on the board of interest.
Your photos are fine except that they don't cover the whole length of the board. That stops us from tracking a foil path for its whole length.
And I am initially looking at that foil path that the battery takes.
Could you take two more photos of both sides of the board. The foil side and the parts side ?
Get in close enough so that the whole pic JUST covers the length and width of the board and the edge of the board is aligned with the side of your viewfinder (squared off).
We may have to ask about the unseen 18 inch fan and light ? later .

73's de Edd




.

 

[Herschel Peeler]

I am from Pakistan. Ordered one in attached pic from aliexpress. Is it good enough?

Quite suitable. Get a couple of them. A lot of learning exercises are easier using more than one meter.

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

It is probably the worst dirt-cheap DMM sold worldwide, but it will do.

Oops, still I am happy it will work!

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad. . . . . . .


That unit should serve these measuring purposes adequately, and with its small size it can be stored away on the same shelf that you now have your accounting abacus.

The board that you are working with seems to have the charging circuitry and battery switching circuitry . . .at that relay area . . .which solder joints I had you examining.
The other board seems to be related to timing and is connected to this power board via the 5 wire cable.
We can hope that nothing was affected on that other board, since it is more complex than this one .
Poor, floating solder joints or a pitted relay are possibilities on the board of interest.
Your photos are fine except that they don't cover the whole length of the board. That stops us from tracking a foil path for its whole length.
And I am initially looking at that foil path that the battery takes.
Could you take two more photos of both sides of the board. The foil side and the parts side ?
Get in close enough so that the whole pic JUST covers the length and width of the board and the edge of the board is aligned with the side of your viewfinder (squared off).
We may have to ask about the unseen 18 inch fan and light ? later .

73's de Edd




.

Hey this is exactly the fan but mine does not have Remote control function (these were two variants), and yes I will show mine too Here are the pics for you! For time being till resolution I did a direct connection to fan from batteries and buying an external charger of 14v 1.3A for charging batteries. I don't know what risks are involved in it? I have attached one older pic for reference of battery wires connected to circuit.

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

Quite suitable. Get a couple of them. A lot of learning exercises are easier using more than one meter.

Sure I will.. Thanks for making me an owner of DMM

 

[73's de Edd]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad . . . . . . .

Behold . . .herewith . . . .is your comparative board referencing . . .as being derived from those GOOD photos which you supplied.

Far right is the boards components layout

In the center is a minimally touched photo . . . to use for foil path comparison

At the far left is component overlays to foil path solder points.

Looks like the far left photo is showing you that the AC power from your side mounted power transformer is bringing in
AC voltage thru the interconnecting two grey wires.
The four large diodes just above, converts that AC to DC voltage and the large 2200 ufd capacitor just above,
smooths out any pulsations in that initial DC to being almost battery quality pure DC at that ORANGE buss
lines point of origin.
Power then flows up through two series isolation diodes, D101-D102, and ends up at Terminal YELLOW C of the power relay which functions for switching between use of AC line or Battery power.

Still referencing to the far left photo, the Battery path has its NEGATIVE buss coming up and ending up as a shared common union with the AC lines DC power ground.

The Battery Positive path passes up and is connected to Terminal YELLOW B of the power relay.
Now that Power relay is energized by its internal coil winding being assigned as YELLOW C1 and C2 as identifiers.

If you look at the relay coil winding, you will see that the C1 terminal goes up to the collector of Q103 transistor.
The power relay is activated if the control transistors base . . .control buss line . . . receives activation voltage from the 5 wire connector . . .top pin. . . .Yellow wire .

Now in looking at the companion YELLOW C2 coil connection, it is receiving DC power from the R101 22 ohm resistor, which in turn gets its power from the ORANGE DC buss.
Sooooooo that means that the unit should have the relays YELLOW A to B contacts closed when there is no power relay coil activaton.
If AC power is coming in to create the other DC power source, then the relay can opt to select that sources DC power by relay coil activation and the relay contacts then being made from A to C contacts.

PRELIMINARY TESTING:

Lets now totally disconnect that unit from AC power and I guess that the battery's have slide on connectors,
so that the unit can be totally devoid of any Battery power also.

Time to use your new meters OHMS function.
Put it in OHMS, at its lowest range.
Short the test probes together and read the metering, now you know what a very low ohmmage or a short reads as.
Separate the probes and look at the metering, now you know what an open circuit reads as.
Take R101 which is a 22 ohms red- red- black and read across it . . . .figure out its reading manner on the metering until you interpret that shown reading as being ~22 ohms.
Move up to R109, just above, and see if it doesn't read as 33 ohms . . .since it looks to be orange- orange- black to my eyes.
Move over to R110 and see if it doesn't read 1 thousand ohms brown- black- red, you may have to click up once or twice on your meters ohms range in order to properly read this larger value of resistor.
Move up to R111 and see if it doesn't read 10 thousand ohms brown- black- orange, again, you may or may not have to click up once on your meters ohms range to get the optimum reading on this one.
These were considering that adjunct parts were not shunting those resistors and creating erroneous readings . and I didn't particularly see any present.
If so encountered, one needs to un solder and lift one resistor lead out of circuit.
Now I have you all warmed up to test one suspicious part . . . . basically just to see if it was not burnt open.
Down below your power relay and the white power resistor is L101 and it has a darkened heat stress ring showing around it.
Get in low ohms scale and read it to see what its expected low ohmmage is being . . . . .or if it gives that open circuit reading, which you familiarized yourself with, earlier.

New task:

At right top corner component side of the board:

You see your power feed to your fan, down below that you will see a light brown disc ceramic capacitor-a black electrolytic capacitor-and a black ferrite based inductor . . . all associated with "trash filtering" associated with that DC fan motor.
NOW . . . FINALLY . . . just to that inductors lower right is diode D109 . . . . it is also showing being heat stressed . . . . test across it to see if it is shorted, as was shown on your very first ohms familiarization.

FURTHER INFORMATION NEEDED :

Looking up from the missing fuse holder there is a U101 IC which I need the number of . . I am expecting it to be a low power three terminal regulator . . . akin to a 78L05 0r 78L08.
While in that area, I see that you have a short WHITE wire from one side of the board to the other . . . I don't think it is being NEEDED..

Consult center foil photo.

The battery negative / ground buss passes up to where you have a WHITE wire loop jumping the fuse connection.
The ground buss branches off to the right and continues (****) as a foil devoid path ,until where it passes up to the point where you see the copper start again.
That copper path to the left and then up to the area where you had the other end of that wire connected, looks to still be completely intact, so that side to side jumper wire should not be needed.
BUT you do need the longer white which brings your battery ground buss up to that area, due to the vaporized foil path.

(***) Dear 'ole DAD . . .you just gotta LOVE him . . . .as he was just TRYING to keep the family COOOOOL.

Somehow ? he just got his ups and downs and rights and lefts and fronts and backs and plusses and minusses of the battery pack confused.
That resulted in that massive instantaneous battery power being applied across that short foil path.
The foil sheds its resist, then goes to a cherry red colorization, makes BIG flashee-flashee in converson to a gaseous state along with sharp fast BANG.( Just like lightning and thunder ! )
In the interim. he is hopping from one foot to the other , peeing pants, and trying to . . . . make it STOP !

I see I gotta stop now and go pick up Gr-Grand daughter . . . will have to continue explorative saga tomorrow.



THE . . . " Board" : . . . . . . ( It Mags up . . .WAY-WAY . . .'mo bigger ! )

73's de Edd




.

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad . . . . . . .

Behold . . .herewith . . . .is your comparative board referencing . . .as being derived from those GOOD photos which you supplied.

Far right is the boards components layout

In the center is a minimally touched photo . . . to use for foil path comparison

At the far left is component overlays to foil path solder points.

Looks like the far left photo is showing you that the AC power from your side mounted power transformer is bringing in
AC voltage thru the interconnecting two grey wires.
The four large diodes just above, converts that AC to DC voltage and the large 2200 ufd capacitor just above,
smooths out any pulsations in that initial DC to being almost battery quality pure DC at that ORANGE buss
lines point of origin.
Power then flows up through two series isolation diodes, D101-D102, and ends up at Terminal YELLOW C of the power relay which functions for switching between use of AC line or Battery power.

Still referencing to the far left photo, the Battery path has its NEGATIVE buss coming up and ending up as a shared common union with the AC lines DC power ground.

The Battery Positive path passes up and is connected to Terminal YELLOW B of the power relay.
Now that Power relay is energized by its internal coil winding being assigned as YELLOW C1 and C2 as identifiers.

If you look at the relay coil winding, you will see that the C1 terminal goes up to the collector of Q103 transistor.
The power relay is activated if the control transistors base . . .control buss line . . . receives activation voltage from the 5 wire connector . . .top pin. . . .Yellow wire .

Now in looking at the companion YELLOW C2 coil connection, it is receiving DC power from the R101 22 ohm resistor, which in turn gets its power from the ORANGE DC buss.
Sooooooo that means that the unit should have the relays YELLOW A to B contacts closed when there is no power relay coil activaton.
If AC power is coming in to create the other DC power source, then the relay can opt to select that sources DC power by relay coil activation and the relay contacts then being made from A to C contacts.

PRELIMINARY TESTING:

Lets now totally disconnect that unit from AC power and I guess that the battery's have slide on connectors,
so that the unit can be totally devoid of any Battery power also.

Time to use your new meters OHMS function.
Put it in OHMS, at its lowest range.
Short the test probes together and read the metering, now you know what a very low ohmmage or a short reads as.
Separate the probes and look at the metering, now you know what an open circuit reads as.
Take R101 which is a 22 ohms red- red- black and read across it . . . .figure out its reading manner on the metering until you interpret as ~22 ohms.
Move up to R109, just above, and see if it doesn't read as 33 ohms . . .since it looks to be orange- orange- black to my eyes.
Move over to R110 and see if it doesn't read 1 thousand ohms brown- black- red, you may have to click up once on your meters ohms range to read this one.
Move up to R111 and see if it doesn't read 10 thousand ohms brown- black- orange, again, you may or may not have to click up once on your meters ohms range to get the optimum reading on this one.
These were considering that adjunct parts were not shunting those resistors and creating erroneous readings . and I didn't particularly see any present.
If so encountered, one needs to un solder and lift one resistor lead out of circuit.
Now I have you all warmed up to test one suspicious part . . . . basically just to see if it was not burnt open.
Down below your power relay and the white power resistor is L101 and it has a darkened heat stress ring showing around it.
Get in low ohms scale and read it to see what its expected low ohmmage is being . . . . .or if it gives that open circuit reading, which you familiarized yourself with, earlier.

New task:

At right top corner component side of the board:

You see your power feed to your fan, down below that you will see a light brown disc ceramic capacitor-a black electrolytic capacitor-and a black ferrite based inductor . . . all associated with "trash filtering" associated with that DC fan motor.
NOW . . . FINALLY . . . just to that inductors lower right is diode D109 . . . . it is also showing being heat stressed . . . . test across it to see if it is shorted, as was shown on your very first ohms familiarization.

FURTHER INFORMATION NEEDED :

Looking up from the missing fuse holder there is a U101 IC which I need the number of . . I am expecting it to be a low power three terminal regulator . . . akin to a 78L05 0r 78L08.
While in that area, I see that you have a short WHITE wire from one side of the board to the other . . . I don't think it is being NEEDED..

Consult center foil photo.

The battery negative / ground buss passes up to where you have a WHITE wire loop jumping the fuse connection.
The ground buss branches off to the right and continues (****) as a foil devoid path ,until where it passes up to the point where you see the copper start again.
That copper path to the left and then up to the area where you had the other end of that wire connected, looks to still be completely intact, so that side to side jumper wire should not be needed.
BUT you do need the longer white which brings your battery ground buss up to that area, due to the vaporized foil path.

(***) Dear 'ole DAD . . .you just gotta LOVE him . . . .as he was just TRYING to keep the family COOOOOL.

Somehow ? he just got his ups and downs and rights and lefts and fronts and backs and plusses and minusses of the battery pack confused.
That resulted in that massive instantaneous battery power being applied across that short foil path.
The foil sheds its resist, then goes to a cherry red colorization, makes BIG flashee-flashee in converson to a gaseous state along with sharp fast BANG.( Just like lightning and thunder ! )
In the interim. he is hopping from one foot to the other , peeing pants, and trying to . . . . make it STOP !

I see I gotta stop now and go pick up Gr-Grand daughter . . . will have to continue explorative saga tomorrow.



THE . . . " Board" : . . . . . . ( It Mags up . . .WAY-WAY . . .'mo bigger ! )

73's de Edd




.

Thanks for the detailed analysis. The fuse was FULL GLASS Fuse, and I don't know its rating as it was broken when I removed. The number on IC looks like 7550H. And Digital MM I ordered will arrive in approx 15-25 days, as it will come from China, so I think I will have to wait probably :/

 

[Nauman Muhammad]

.


Sir Nauman Muhammad . . . . . . .

Behold . . .herewith . . . .is your comparative board referencing . . .as being derived from those GOOD photos which you supplied.

Far right is the boards components layout

In the center is a minimally touched photo . . . to use for foil path comparison

At the far left is component overlays to foil path solder points.

Looks like the far left photo is showing you that the AC power from your side mounted power transformer is bringing in
AC voltage thru the interconnecting two grey wires.
The four large diodes just above, converts that AC to DC voltage and the large 2200 ufd capacitor just above,
smooths out any pulsations in that initial DC to being almost battery quality pure DC at that ORANGE buss
lines point of origin.
Power then flows up through two series isolation diodes, D101-D102, and ends up at Terminal YELLOW C of the power relay which functions for switching between use of AC line or Battery power.

Still referencing to the far left photo, the Battery path has its NEGATIVE buss coming up and ending up as a shared common union with the AC lines DC power ground.

The Battery Positive path passes up and is connected to Terminal YELLOW B of the power relay.
Now that Power relay is energized by its internal coil winding being assigned as YELLOW C1 and C2 as identifiers.

If you look at the relay coil winding, you will see that the C1 terminal goes up to the collector of Q103 transistor.
The power relay is activated if the control transistors base . . .control buss line . . . receives activation voltage from the 5 wire connector . . .top pin. . . .Yellow wire .

Now in looking at the companion YELLOW C2 coil connection, it is receiving DC power from the R101 22 ohm resistor, which in turn gets its power from the ORANGE DC buss.
Sooooooo that means that the unit should have the relays YELLOW A to B contacts closed when there is no power relay coil activaton.
If AC power is coming in to create the other DC power source, then the relay can opt to select that sources DC power by relay coil activation and the relay contacts then being made from A to C contacts.

PRELIMINARY TESTING:

Lets now totally disconnect that unit from AC power and I guess that the battery's have slide on connectors,
so that the unit can be totally devoid of any Battery power also.

Time to use your new meters OHMS function.
Put it in OHMS, at its lowest range.
Short the test probes together and read the metering, now you know what a very low ohmmage or a short reads as.
Separate the probes and look at the metering, now you know what an open circuit reads as.
Take R101 which is a 22 ohms red- red- black and read across it . . . .figure out its reading manner on the metering until you interpret that shown reading as being ~22 ohms.
Move up to R109, just above, and see if it doesn't read as 33 ohms . . .since it looks to be orange- orange- black to my eyes.
Move over to R110 and see if it doesn't read 1 thousand ohms brown- black- red, you may have to click up once or twice on your meters ohms range in order to properly read this larger value of resistor.
Move up to R111 and see if it doesn't read 10 thousand ohms brown- black- orange, again, you may or may not have to click up once on your meters ohms range to get the optimum reading on this one.
These were considering that adjunct parts were not shunting those resistors and creating erroneous readings . and I didn't particularly see any present.
If so encountered, one needs to un solder and lift one resistor lead out of circuit.
Now I have you all warmed up to test one suspicious part . . . . basically just to see if it was not burnt open.
Down below your power relay and the white power resistor is L101 and it has a darkened heat stress ring showing around it.
Get in low ohms scale and read it to see what its expected low ohmmage is being . . . . .or if it gives that open circuit reading, which you familiarized yourself with, earlier.

New task:

At right top corner component side of the board:

You see your power feed to your fan, down below that you will see a light brown disc ceramic capacitor-a black electrolytic capacitor-and a black ferrite based inductor . . . all associated with "trash filtering" associated with that DC fan motor.
NOW . . . FINALLY . . . just to that inductors lower right is diode D109 . . . . it is also showing being heat stressed . . . . test across it to see if it is shorted, as was shown on your very first ohms familiarization.

FURTHER INFORMATION NEEDED :

Looking up from the missing fuse holder there is a U101 IC which I need the number of . . I am expecting it to be a low power three terminal regulator . . . akin to a 78L05 0r 78L08.
While in that area, I see that you have a short WHITE wire from one side of the board to the other . . . I don't think it is being NEEDED..

Consult center foil photo.

The battery negative / ground buss passes up to where you have a WHITE wire loop jumping the fuse connection.
The ground buss branches off to the right and continues (****) as a foil devoid path ,until where it passes up to the point where you see the copper start again.
That copper path to the left and then up to the area where you had the other end of that wire connected, looks to still be completely intact, so that side to side jumper wire should not be needed.
BUT you do need the longer white which brings your battery ground buss up to that area, due to the vaporized foil path.

(***) Dear 'ole DAD . . .you just gotta LOVE him . . . .as he was just TRYING to keep the family COOOOOL.

Somehow ? he just got his ups and downs and rights and lefts and fronts and backs and plusses and minusses of the battery pack confused.
That resulted in that massive instantaneous battery power being applied across that short foil path.
The foil sheds its resist, then goes to a cherry red colorization, makes BIG flashee-flashee in converson to a gaseous state along with sharp fast BANG.( Just like lightning and thunder ! )
In the interim. he is hopping from one foot to the other , peeing pants, and trying to . . . . make it STOP !

I see I gotta stop now and go pick up Gr-Grand daughter . . . will have to continue explorative saga tomorrow.



THE . . . " Board" : . . . . . . ( It Mags up . . .WAY-WAY . . .'mo bigger ! )

73's de Edd




.

Hi! Sorry for delays, I am back again with a multimeter this time.

 

[73's de Edd]

.

Sir Nauman Muhammad . . . . .

Now we can see that Camel caravan takes from May 11th until June 24th to deliver
your new meter.
I think that I will wait for your soldering expertise to improve before continuing on this
unit . .for my part.


73's de Edd


.