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Xplod Amp 1600w XM-DS1600p5

when I connect everything right, when I turn on the stereo the amp power for one second and then blow the fuse on the line (between baterry and the amp) the fuse is 100a, the 3 fuses on the amp its fine, I connect another amplifier I have of 1000 watts and everything goes well, I hope I can help. THANKS!
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Get a multimeter and measure between the power leads and ensure there is not a short. (you will need to do this test with the power cables disconnected from the battery(?) and with the unit turned ON)
 
you need a bigger fuse, I know the amp shouldnt be drawing its full capability but look at the wattage of the amp in the title...

Xplod Amp 1600w XM-DS1600p5

Assuming that this is in a car (reference to battery, and it being a car subwoofer amp) it should run on 12V (unless its in a bigger truck that runs on 24V and then youre probably overloading the amp anyways) 1600W/12V= 133.3333 etc, you would probably be better off getting a 125 or 150A fuse to put in line with it

Like I said it sounds like there is something else wrong with the amp if its drawing that kind of current right on start up
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
i checked +12 and GND and its a short

That would blow the fuse...

The reason for the question about reversed polarity is that sometimes devices like this are protected from reverse polarity by placing a diode across the power connections

This protects the device, but sacrifices the diode if you connect it up reversed (even for an instant).

This is designed to blow fuses (which it's doing). Unfortunately (if this is the case) the diode is now shorted and will blow fuses no matter which way you provide power.

If there's a warranty issue, get it seen to by a warranty agent. Otherwise, this is the first thing I'd be checking (after making absolutely certain that there wasn't a short for an other obvious external reason.

Remove the power connection from the unit (if you can). See if there's still a short across the removed power cable, or f there's a short across the power connections in the device (you may have to stick probes into a connector).

Check the continuity between both power connections and the case. Unlikely, but possible that the device is designed for the opposite polarity earth.

If you eliminate all of these, it's time to refer to the warranty agent or to try to investigate further (and void any warranty) yourself.
 
hi thanks for the help, but now perform all tests and is in short, no warranty, and open the amp and do not see any diode, attached diagram indicate which maybe I can check or if I take it to a specialist, THANKS

http://ul.to/r5oo3ivf
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Great. But I won't comment further until you tell me the results of all the tests.
 
HI, yes i remove the power from the amp, and put the multimeter in the +12 and gnd and the numbers up to 1.... to 2000 then say 1, and no continuity between the terminals and the case,
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Have you got a 100W (or more) 12V lamp handy?

Place it in series with the power to the amplifier then power the amplifier on. Tell me what happens.

Most especially tell me about the brightness of the lamp. Does it start very bright and stay that way, or does it get dimmer?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
OK, now feed in a signal, keeping the volume really really low and tell me what happens.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Do you hear the output?

Does it sound good? or distorted?

How does this change as you turn up the volume (very slowly)?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Explain the blinking.

Is it full brightness for the lamp?

How fast is it blinking (flashes per second, or seconds between the flashes)?

If possible, is it a very brief flash, followed by a longer off time, or something different?

What do you mean by the speaker blinking?
 
Blinking is continuos without change, flashes per second, speakers move when the light flashes, low light no changes.
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Well, you answered one of the questions...

I believe you have a dead inverter in the amp. If you're lucky it will just be a dead mosfet

Look at the circuit diagram. I believe there are a heap of mosfets connected to the input power supply. One or more may be shorted. Look carefully at them to see if there are any marks which may indicate failure.
 
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