Wiring up a Y90L-2 motor

[Stewie D]

So I bought a new , unused electric motor off a mate cheaply but it didn’t come with a power cord wired in.

It is a 3HP , 13.7 amp , 2800RPM single phase 240 volt YL90-2 . The box it came in says it is a “Powerstar” brand but says YL-S02. It does have YL90-2 stamped on the nameplate of the motor though so presume they labelled the box wrongly. There is no wiring diagram on the underside of the terminal box cover. What is the correct way to wire this ? My daughter is a third year apprentice electrician but has no experience with electrical motors. She does however have a Fluke multimeter that we can use to test the wires inside the box should that be necessary.

From the photos, obviously the blue cap (250 microfarads) is the start and the black (50 microfarads) is the run. There is also a thermal overload switch in there to complicate matters.

I have a 15amp circuit to run this on and the motor will be used on a bricksaw.
Yes, I am just a humble carpenter so keep it as simple as possible.
Many thanks to anyone who can point me in the right direction here.

 

[Bluejets]

Active to the floating red cable and Neutral to terminal V2.
And naturally Earth to the frame.
Megger required for testing before plugging in to any power (no, not multimeter) And would recommend doing a load current test (tong meter)before running for any extended period.

Must add not mine but from a pervious enquiry....even though the previous is shown at 120v, should be the same.
https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/threads/yl90l2-2-single-phase-dual-capacitor-motor.284820/

Note that yours includes an overload device, hence the need for Active on the floating Red rather than U2.

As previously stated by Minder, these motors pull quite a wack of current and it may need more than your available 15A circuit and would most definetely not like to be run on any extension lead.

 

[Stewie D]

Hmm, not sure if she has a Megger. Her boss or someone else in the firm may have one though.
Thanks very much for the info. I'll get back to you with the results.
Yes, I saw that other thread when I googled for a wiring diagram for this motor. One of the reasons why I joined this forum.

Cheers, Stewie

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir Stewie . . . . .
Looks like w a a a a a a a y back at the design time of that motor frame they had four holes and a spec plate that was held on with convoluted drive in rivets.
Then they transitioned to a thin aluminum plate with its printed on info and accepted the stamped in 110 and 60 . . . BUT the hold on adhesive must have failed in time. . . . . no plate now.
So here is a copy to print out and laminate or use adjoining strips of SCOTCH BRAND CLEAR PACKING TAPE , front and back and use a 4 blob smear of silicone rubber . . . . . FOREVER . . . .adhesive.

View attachment 53176


Then in the future if you make a serious boo-boo on a brick cut . . . . you can reverse motor and uncut that brick.
(Jes' messin' wit cher mind. )

73's de Edd . . . . .

.

 

[Stewie D]

I get this when I click on "View attachment 53176 "...
Electronics Forums - Error
Unless you're just messing with me again

I have another 3HP motor that I once again bought cheaply and need to wire up to power a conveyor system but I'll get this one going first and create another thread for that one.

Stewie

 

[Minder]

Have you tried an Email to the manuf support?
E-Mail: [email protected]

 

[Stewie D]

Erm, no I haven't or at least not to their Canadian office which I was unaware existed. I sent an email to their office a while back in Singapore but didn't get any replies.
Thanks for that link.

Cheers, Stewie

 

[Minder]

Erm, no I haven't or at least not to their Canadian office which I was unaware existed. I sent an email to their office a while back in Singapore but didn't get any replies.
Thanks for that link.

Cheers, Stewie

*.CN that is China, Canada is *.Ca

 

[Stewie D]

Ah of course! Brain fade...
I sent them an email and received a reply back within an hour stating that " This is not one of our motors".
Hmmm. The plot thickens.
I'll stick with Bluejets suggestion and wait until we can test it with a Megger.

Stewie

 

[Bluejets]

Megger is to insure safe isolation and proper earthing.
Tong meter will be required to do a run test.

If you use it anywhere on a site in Aus, better have it tagged as well.
The inspectors on those sites get REAL nasty if it's not test tagged.
They find one small item not up to scratch and they will go through you worse than a dose of salts.

 

[Stewie D]

Will do with the testing.
I'm building our house so no OH & S requirements on the tagging although from a safety point all my electric tools and machines have had the once over from my daughter just not tagged.
I'm also running everything through an earth leakage box.

Stewie

 

[Bluejets]

I'm also running everything through an earth leakage box.

Pretty much standard requirement in new house builders power......
They usually have to provide at least one 15A point so you should be good.
Don't be surprised if the inspectors drop in though all the same.......owner builder or otherwise.......test tags a must on any construction site.
They're cheap, easy to do.......I'd just do it and avoid the possibility of any fine.(bloody steep too)
I heard of a lecky that had a hole in his steel cap boot .....$30,000 by the time they went through him.

 

[Stewie D]

Yeah, I might bite the bullet and get them tagged. I'm pretty sure my daughters boss has the licence and gear to test them so I might get her to do it for me.
We had a 15 amp circuit installed on the builders pole anyway so we're covered on that front. My arc welder and tablesaw are both 15 amp.

Cheers, Stewie

 

[73's de Edd]

Supplementing post #4 where that initial HOT link was being at the wrong temperature . . . .
RETRY . . . .



BAMMMMMMMMMM . . . . . . . .there it is !

 

[Stewie D]

Thanks for the info.

Stewie

 

[Stewie D]

So, the only guy we know with a Megger is one of the tradies that works with my daughter but he's on holidays at the moment so I'll have to wait until after this coming weekend.
I do however have another Y series 3HP motor that needs to be resurrected but I'll start another post for that one.

Cheers, Stewie

 

[Stewie D]

So a while back I bought a used electric motor off eBay cheaply but the previous owner has “played around “ with it after it apparently blew a capacitor. He couldn’t remember what wires he had disconnected or moved. It has sat on the shelf for a couple of years after I bought it. As you can see in the photos he has tried to replace the starting cap with a run cap from another motor which appears to be 30mf. According to the manufacturers plate it should be 250mf -250VAC so I ordered one and it arrived yesterday. The terminal block letters are hard to see so I undid the screws, made a note of their letters and drew a diagram.

It is a 3HP , 13.1 amp , 2800RPM single phase 240 volt YL90L-2 . There is no wiring diagram on the underside of the terminal box cover ( again! ). What is the correct way to wire this ? My daughter is a third year apprentice electrician but has no experience with electrical motors. She does however have a Fluke multimeter that we can use to test the wires inside the box should that be necessary. As per my other motor that I enquired about recently the only guy we know with a Megger is one of the tradesmen that works with my daughter but he isn’t due back from holidays until this coming Sunday.

Any help greatly appreciated

[mod edit: same motor, same issue -> same thread. I therefore merged this post from its single thread into this one]

 

[73's de Edd]

 

[Stewie D]

Cheers for that. I'll look at this tomorrow,

Stewie

 

[Stewie D]

We wired up both motors and tested them on a friends 15amp circuit on which he has a 20amp circuit breaker. No problem with either of them but when we returned home and plugged them into our 15amp circuit they blew straight away. Obviously as per Bluejets advice above we need to get a 20amp circuit breaker on there. Now, I have done some research and from what I've gleaned we need something like a 20 amp C or D curve circuit breaker which has a higher initial amp rating - if that's the correct terminology ?

Stewie