Vaseline on coax connection?

[mm]

I've seen and bought "self-amalgamating rubber tape" (same principle,
maybe the same stuff) at my local Home Depot. I agree, it's very
useful stuff.

I forgot about Home Depot, but when I was looking for it, they had it
mail order** but never in the stores. And so it was twice the price
because of shipping. And I'd have to plan a lot further in advance.

Was hoping to find it in a store. I went to a big electrical supply
house too. Maybe they had it, but none of the words I used to describe
it worked. I'll go back with some new words.

**I used the web and they used the mail.

Lowes iirc allowed someone to ship to a store for free (which makes
sense if they have their computer set up to put it on the same truck
that is going to a store (It would still cost them something to do
this, but not much) ,

Iirc HD charged whether shipping to one's home or a store.


If you are inclined to email me
for some reason, remove NOPSAM

 

[[email protected]]

Slop a lot of silicone bath tub seal goop all over it.
cuhulin

 

[clifto]

I forgot about Home Depot, but when I was looking for it, they had it
mail order** but never in the stores.

I'm pretty sure I picked this up off the shelf in Home Depot:

Gardner Bender
Silicone Fusion Tape
HTP-1010
UPC 032076560102

Bubble pack, red over gray card

 

[Ian Jackson]

The *ONLY* reason you might consider greasing the connector is for
waterproofing. You'll have a good connection with or without the
lube. There's nothing better than metal to metal. However, if you're
using dissimilar metals on the connector, you may have a problem that
Vaseline isn't going to solve. I suggest you read some of the replies
to your question. There's considerable good info and advice in there.

Exactly so. Vaseline certainly isn't going to improve a connection.

However, most connections involving coax and connectors DO involve some
degree of dissimilar metals somewhere in the joint. There is always the
possibility of corrosion, especially under damp conditions. A coating of
something which keeps out the moisture WILL certainly delay this
(hopefully indefinitely).

Anything which does not contain or absorb water should work (so I
wouldn't choose to use my wife's moisturising cream). Also, it should
not wash off of evaporate completely. Vaseline, silicon grease and
dozens of other things should be OK. However, WD40 has an advantage as
it chases off moisture present when you are making the joint. That's why
I spray the connectors and the made-off ends of the cable BEFORE I put
the connectors on. As insurance, I then spray again AFTER I have made
the joint.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

I wanted to use Vaseline, not for water proofing, but for
making sure I have a good connection.

I wouldn't touch that with a 3m pole...

 

[bz]

WD40 has an advantage as
it chases off moisture present when you are making the joint. That's why
I spray the connectors and the made-off ends of the cable BEFORE I put
the connectors on. As insurance, I then spray again AFTER I have made
the joint.

If evaporation, as the WD40 spray leaves the pressurized can, and as it
sits on the connector, lowers the temperature below the dew-point,
you could end up introducing moisture rather than driving it out.




--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

[email protected] remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

Anything which does not contain or absorb water should work (so I
wouldn't choose to use my wife's moisturising cream).

Moisturizing cream is another name for grease or oil. There's nothing
in the cosmetic use of the stuff that either absorbs (hygroscopic) or
displaces moisture. However, there is some water in the stuff. My
favorite variation on this theme is in a restaurant, where you can ask
for "dry" toast, which means without any butter or oil.

Also, it should
not wash off of evaporate completely. Vaseline, silicon grease and
dozens of other things should be OK. However, WD40 has an advantage as
it chases off moisture present when you are making the joint. That's why
I spray the connectors and the made-off ends of the cable BEFORE I put
the connectors on. As insurance, I then spray again AFTER I have made
the joint.

The "WD" in WD40 means "water displacement". It doesn't chemically do
anything to the water. It just shoves it aside or pushes it into the
connector. Try spraying or pouring some WD40 into a test tube full of
colored water. No reaction. Note the ingredients.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wd40>
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norm_Larsen>

WD-40 and other greases probably make sense in an outdoor, corrosive,
and high humidity environments, but for every day use on commodity RF
connectors, it's a waste of time. It may keep water out of a clean
pair of connectors, but if used in a dirty environment (i.e. the back
of my hi-fi) and reconnected, it's highly likely to shove the now
greasy dirt into the connector. This is not my idea of an
improvement.

In a past life, during the 1960's, I was involved in building and
maintaining a recording studio. The place was stuffed full of
connectors of all types and denomination. Nobody ever even suggested
that we smear them with grease to "improve" anything, despite constant
efforts dealing with very low level noise sources. Dissimilar metals
between connectors were a problem and generally avoided.

Searching the official list of 2000+ uses for WD-40 at:
<http://www.wd40.com/pdfs/WD-40_2000+UsesList.pdf>
the closest approximation is:
"Lubricates the threads of coax/antenna connectors on
amateur radio antennas"
So it is written... so it must be.

 

[Dave Platt]

Slop a lot of silicone bath tub seal goop all over it.

cuhulin

Might or might not be a good idea.

Some silicone sealant (the cheaper stuff) contains acetic acid, and
(naturally) smells like vinegar. Using this as a seal for coax
connections is a very good recipe for corrosion, as some of the acid
will diffuse into the connector's airspaces as the sealant cures.

"Neutral cure" silicone sealants are a better bet. The best are
specifically rated for electronics use (and cost quite a bit).
Consumer-type sealants that are stated to be noncorrosive, or
advertised for use on metal are probably safe for use on connectors.

Using silicone sealant directly on the connectors pretty much
guarantees a semi-permanent, almost-impossible-to-repair-or-change
joint. It's a real bear to cut it open and pick all of the bits out
of the threads. Overwrapping the joint with tape, first, and then
gooping over the tape and out onto the coax itself should be just as
secure, and far easier to re-open at a later time. Either
self-amalgamating rubber tape, or plumber's Teflon thread-tape could
be used.

 

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I am the real cuhulin.And Michaell Terrell in central Florida, anywhere
in the World will never lay hands on any of my computeres.He/she'it
called me a dumbass.
cuhulin