Thank you guys so much for taking the take to respond to my questions. I will post some stock pictures of the components.
Here's how things work. We have the decoder box. That is connected to a computer and run using a specific RC Car software program for scoring. A coax connects to the back of the decoder and runs approximately 50 foot in my case to a single wire that is buried in the track.The wire approximately 40 foot in length makes a loop, so it goes across the track lane and comes back. Each end is connected to the coax, One to the center and one to the outer part of the coax. When the cars cross this loop in the track their laps times are recorded. So you have the coax going to a single strand of 16 gauge wire in the track making a loop.
Okay these single loops/coax cost 250 bucks and I want to just make my own, As you can see in the picture with the yellow coax at the.end there is a little black box, which is actually some hardened plastic hiding whats in the there. It has the two wires coming out that I connect to the 16 gauge wire in the track. The decoder has a noise level indicator. When I plug in the yellow coax to the decoder WITHOUT the 16 gauge loop wire connected there is a zero reading on the noise level. When I plug in the coax cable that I am making the noise level is in the 40's. When noise starts getting high it start miss counting, so I need zero noise before the loop just like the 250 stock version has.
I have dissected the black box and the was a tiny cooper coil in there. Reading what a termination resistor is may be exactly what I need. I do also know this. The coax not connected to the 16 gauge scoring loop need to read 100k ohms. I added a 100k ohm resistor to the end of the coax and did get the 100k Ohm reading but have way too much noise, unlike the stock factory cable.
I also have included a PDF on how to test the factory loop. I have the 470 ohm loop in the ground tested and working, I need to figure out the coax part.
thank you guys for helping.
Here are some pictures
