Trying to build an IR to RF device

[justjosh]

Completely new to this game so forgive the stupid questions. Apologies if this is in the wrong forum, unable to find anything that suggests requiring circuit help.

I'm trying to trigger my RF device via IR but I couldn't find a consumer product that works on the frequency I need so I decided to DIY it.

What I have here is the original RF remote and an Arduino IR module from:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-C...Module-Board-For-Home-Device/32859235113.html

I figured I need to connect them by soldering the CK and COM to both sides of the contact switch on the RF remote:

My questions are as follows:
1. The module seems to do maximum 10A output while the RF remote seems to use a 23A battery. Do I need some form of resistor or complex circuit or will the shortness of the connection (single burst) prevent anything from blowing?
2. Is it sufficient to simply solder a 5V USB cable (I plan to strip this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...Barrel-Power-Cable-Connector/32923383877.html) to the VIN/GND ports?
3. Is there a way to replace the battery on the RF remote with the same USB power supply via some circuit or does the 23A battery suggest that it requires too big of a current burst for it to be viable via AC?

Details about IR module for quick reference:

1 Input voltage: 4.5-5V

2 VIN: power supply 5V+ , GND: power supply 5V-

CK=normally open, COM=common, CB=normally close, all of these three ports connect with output.

4 Working Mode: Self-lock control (Press the button on remote, then relevant Channel of the relay module will work. press the button once again, then it will stop.)

6 This switch receiver can learn nearly all the NEC format IR remote control transmitter.

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

1) No, 10a is the relay rating. Up to 10 amps of current.
23a is the battery model number. Its 12v DC and the current drawn is determined by the load of the RF xmitter. Probably about 200ma I would guess. (much less than 10amps)
2)Yes
3) Yes, you can use a 12v power supply with a 5v regulator circuit connected to that.

 

[justjosh]

Thank you for your reply. It's very helpful. How would I know how much current to supply via the 12V? I always assumed that it required a 23A battery because it required a strong burst for the RF signal.

 

[justjosh]

So I've been doing more research based on your sugggestions, here's two builds I'm considering:

1. Connect a dual USB wall socket to 2x 5V USB inputs to power both devices
This involves splicing one of this to both ends of the battery terminal:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New...Car-Charging-Charger-Adapter/32879514065.html

2. 12V AC adaptor splits to 12V remote and 12V car USB adaptor which will do the conversion to 5V:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-1...Cigarette-Socket-Lighter-Car/32919749822.html

Any inputs on which would be the better option or letting me know that both won't work would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

It has molex connector with both 12v and 5v on it. Chop off the end strip back a few inches and tie it in in as needed.
I'd probably add an inline fuse on the 12v output for safety. About 3/4 amp fuse would be ideal. You could add one to the 5v output also but I wouldn't say it's mandatory.

 

[justjosh]

It has molex connector with both 12v and 5v on it. Chop off the end strip back a few inches and tie it in in as needed.
I'd probably add an inline fuse on the 12v output for safety. About 3/4 amp fuse would be ideal. You could add one to the 5v output also but I wouldn't say it's mandatory.

For the fuse, is this correct? https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-0-75a-250v-5x20mm-fast-acting-glass-fuse-4-pack
I managed to get the prototype to work but I need to solve another puzzle. The IR module flips on and stays on until I press the button again. That keeps the RF remote's button continuously pressed for an extended period of time. Is there some sort of electronic circuit that I can use to "spring open" the circuit after an initial burst?

 

[Tha fios agaibh]

Perhaps. A schematic of what you have would be a start.
You would've been better off designing one circuit rather than a hodgepodge of 3 circuits and power supplies.