N
N_Cook
Well not so much the connectors but manufacturers that use them , supposedly
fixed to too thick screened cable, this time Van Damme.
The bifurcated "cable clamp" does not grip the sleeving, so free to move and
then break the signal line at the phono.
Adapted the smallest of Jubilee/ metal hose clips so it could pull round
even smaller than designed. The track that engages with the pinion does not
continue right up to the anchor point.
Bend back the spurs that retain the pinion so the pinion can be removed
after releasing the free end of the track. Cut that anchored end off the
track and reform the joggles that abut the anchor/housing. Make sure it will
tighten to something like a tight circle, of course the anchor housing is
flat.
Also make sure the free end of the track will easily engage and disengage as
once the job is done you have to release it.
With connector shroud on , introduce the connector clamp to the sleeve
(leave soldering the conductors to last). Tighten the Jubilee around, over
as small a part of the connector clamp as you can, on the up cable side.
Turn some turns of tinned copper wire around the exposed cable clamp
sections , twist the ends together and solder into a ring, beware of melting
the sleeving, so do in stages.
Remove the Jubilee and maybe grind off any excess high spots of solder.
Remember when soldering the rest , the screening copper is soldered tight
and the conductors cut long, to allow for some relative movement inside the
cable , and so, in service, not straining the solder connection. And, normal
good practise, mate the plug with any old socket before soldering the
conductor pins.
fixed to too thick screened cable, this time Van Damme.
The bifurcated "cable clamp" does not grip the sleeving, so free to move and
then break the signal line at the phono.
Adapted the smallest of Jubilee/ metal hose clips so it could pull round
even smaller than designed. The track that engages with the pinion does not
continue right up to the anchor point.
Bend back the spurs that retain the pinion so the pinion can be removed
after releasing the free end of the track. Cut that anchored end off the
track and reform the joggles that abut the anchor/housing. Make sure it will
tighten to something like a tight circle, of course the anchor housing is
flat.
Also make sure the free end of the track will easily engage and disengage as
once the job is done you have to release it.
With connector shroud on , introduce the connector clamp to the sleeve
(leave soldering the conductors to last). Tighten the Jubilee around, over
as small a part of the connector clamp as you can, on the up cable side.
Turn some turns of tinned copper wire around the exposed cable clamp
sections , twist the ends together and solder into a ring, beware of melting
the sleeving, so do in stages.
Remove the Jubilee and maybe grind off any excess high spots of solder.
Remember when soldering the rest , the screening copper is soldered tight
and the conductors cut long, to allow for some relative movement inside the
cable , and so, in service, not straining the solder connection. And, normal
good practise, mate the plug with any old socket before soldering the
conductor pins.
