Tacx T2240 turbo trainer - blown resistor

[Meaddog]

I have the same issue with my t2240. Replace the resistor that I thought was the problem but it blew straight away. So the problem lies else where. By the way I got the resistors (2w 27 ohm) from rs components part number smw227rjt for a couple of quid. Please if anyone else finds a solution then please share it on here. This is my second T2240 and the first had the same issue.

 

[Peathaugh]

Meaddog, check previous posts, the blown resistor is a symptom of the problem, not the cause. I'll let you know as soon as I get some news from my mate who is having a go at fixing my turbo.

 

[jimmyg123]

Meaddog, check previous posts, the blown resistor is a symptom of the problem, not the cause. I'll let you know as soon as I get some news from my mate who is having a go at fixing my turbo.

hello. can you link to the part (mosfet) you think is the culprit? thank you for your effort.

 

[Peathaugh]

I dont know where it is on the board but here is the link to the part I bought on the advice of my expert mate.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-STMicroelectronics-STU16N65M5-N-channel-MOSFET-Transistor-12A-650V-3-Pin/223173981677?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I do not yet know if that is the only part that is an issue as yet.

 

[flyingchorse]

Any luck with this ?

 

[Peathaugh]

So here is a bit of an update.
To save the anticipation - the unit is not running, at least not fully.

So the electronics expert had my unit and replaced both the blown resistor and the MOSFET. The result of that was that the unit powered up. However it only showed a solid, unblinking orange status light. Not promising I thought. I tried connecting to the unit with my phone and laptop and was successful ! I was able to use both Bluetooth and Ant+. However, when I started pedaling there was no registering of pedal strokes, cadence, power, speed, nothing. No resistence in the pedals at all. I tried updating the firmware (having found that the orange light can be a sign of a brake firmware issue) but found that the firmware was reported as being up to date. (I have to say here that the software related to these turbos is absolute garbage).

Anyway, net result is that I am not going to waste my time on this f'***ing thing any more and I have it on eBay for spares as I type.

For those that have the units in warranty, go that way. For those that don't, I wish you luck if you try to repair. I guess I made some progress but I am bowing out now.

Cycle on regardless.
Best of luck.

 

[Meaddog]

Thanks for your efforts peathaugh, I’ll try also changing the mosfet and resistor to see. If I get any joy I’ll post.

 

[Peathaugh]

Good luck, but just to illustrate a little more the alternatives to this. I just sold broken turbo on Ebay for £80 (same as what I paid when it worked !). Likely go towards buying a new one when the market calms down a bit. I wont buy a TACX though !

 

[dougienisbet]

So here is a bit of an update.
To save the anticipation - the unit is not running, at least not fully.

Anyway, net result is that I am not going to waste my time on this f'***ing thing any more and I have it on eBay for spares as I type.

Cycle on regardless.
Best of luck.

Thanks for sharing your experience. My 5 year old Vortex just died, and on dismantling I see the same resistor as mentioned in this thread. There's a split along the top but I can't see any scorching or any other board damage. But I'm not going to bother trying to swap out any components. My soldering skills are not that great and it sounds like it'd all end in tears!

 

[Angers]

I have managed to get mine fixed. I have no idea what he did, but a number of things were blown but he worked through each one. I have used in anger yet because I've been injured by a 'fail to give way' driver so cycling is out of the question. But I can connect to my phone and zwift.

 

[Meaddog]

Hi Angers, is there any chance you can get details of what he replaced as this seems to be a common problem, thanks

 

[dougienisbet]

I have managed to get mine fixed. I have no idea what he did, but a number of things were blown but he worked through each one. I have used in anger yet because I've been injured by a 'fail to give way' driver so cycling is out of the question. But I can connect to my phone and zwift.

Where did you get this done Angers? I saw somewhere and advert where you can just post the circuit board but I don't know where that was.

 

[Angers]

His email is [email protected]
Hopefully he can help you. I'm not up there with electronics, so I'll let him explain.

 

[Meaddog]

Some info for anyone interested,
If you trace the circuit from the live mains terminal there is a 1amp fuse next is a 27 ohm 2 watt wire wound resistor, this is the one that blows apart next is a 3 ohm resistor and finally connected to that is a mosfet

RS numbers 6476188 27 ohm 3 watt
2240070 3 ohm 1 watt
7610689 n channel mosfet 650v 12amp
All in cost about a tenner from rs components. Mine now works. Might be best if you know someone that is experienced in electronics that has the correct soldering kit as the parts are pretty small

 

[dougienisbet]

Some info for anyone interested,
If you trace the circuit from the live mains terminal there is a 1amp fuse next is a 27 ohm 2 watt wire wound resistor, this is the one that blows apart next is a 3 ohm resistor and finally connected to that is a mosfet

RS numbers 6476188 27 ohm 3 watt
2240070 3 ohm 1 watt
7610689 n channel mosfet 650v 12amp
All in cost about a tenner from rs components. Mine now works. Might be best if you know someone that is experienced in electronics that has the correct soldering kit as the parts are pretty small

Thanks, that's really useful. I'm tempted to give it a punt for the price of a tenner.

You mention a 1amp fuse. I'm looking at my photo and not sure where it might be. What does it look like, and did you need to replace that too?

Thanks

Dougie

 

[Meaddog]

That’s what I was told by an expert but I too didn’t know what it was so I didn’t replace the 1w fuse. I only replaced the 3 components listed. I found the removal of the old components the most difficult but I suppose my iron is only a cheap thing that’s pretty old. I snipped the 2 wires on the mosfet to assist removing it so it would be beneficial to have some small sharp wire snippers. With the resistor 3r3 you have to heat each end and with only the one soldering iron it proved to be a pain to remove as you have to move it to each end quick enough so the other end still remains hot if you get me. If I did it a gain I would liked to have 2 irons on the go at the same time.

 

[bertus]

Hello,

@Meaddog , there are special tweezer style soldering irons to use with SMD resistors and capacitors.
Here is an example: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/Tweezer-Style-Soldering-Iron-For-SMD.html
It shows the USA version, but there will also be EU versions around.

Bertus

 

[Angers]

Did you get in touch with the chap above?

That’s what I was told by an expert but I too didn’t know what it was so I didn’t replace the 1w fuse. I only replaced the 3 components listed. I found the removal of the old components the most difficult but I suppose my iron is only a cheap thing that’s pretty old. I snipped the 2 wires on the mosfet to assist removing it so it would be beneficial to have some small sharp wire snippers. With the resistor 3r3 you have to heat each end and with only the one soldering iron it proved to be a pain to remove as you have to move it to each end quick enough so the other end still remains hot if you get me. If I did it a gain I would liked to have 2 irons on the go at the same time.

 

[Meaddog]

Yes angers, he was very helpful, thanks for that.

 

[dougienisbet]

Thanks, that's really useful. I'm tempted to give it a punt for the price of a tenner.

Dougie

Well I was tempted and it didn't work. No worries. It was an interesting experiment. I've never tried soldering a surface mounted component before but luckily lots of people on the internet have and I found plenty hints.
I think I may have got away with it but I'm not sure I had the correct components for my board.
The wirewound 27ohm resistor on my board was 2W but the one I'd bought was 3W and a little bit bigger.

I tried it anyway, thinking it might just make the contacts. It looked ok, not pretty, but I thought maybe I'd get away with it. I didn't. There were a few sparks and pops and a few black patches appeared on the PCB where none had existed previously. You win some you lose some.

Looking back through this thread I found a reference to a 2W resister, part SMW227RJT, that is perhaps the one I should've bought. I have a question about this. According to the RS website, the Power Rating (under Specifications) is 0.125W. Is that a mistake? I'm assuming it's 2W and the one I needed.