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Maker Pro

Sony Receiver STR - DA555ES Displays "protection fan" when turned on.

When i short the wires of the meter on 2000k it shows .003 ohms.
When reading the resistance on C960, The ohms climb up slowly and then disappear after it goes over to 20k. Should i use 20k or higher to measure resistance on C960?
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
Use the meter on the 200Ω range when you're testing for a short circuit (which is what we're doing here).

With the probes not touching, it will show an overflow indication, something like "1 ." or "0L". That means open circuit.

With the probes touching each other, it will show a low number of ohms, probably less than 1.0. This is a short circuit.

When you measure across C960 I just want to know whether you get a short circuit reading or not. A number that steadily increases, and goes to an overflow indication, is not a short circuit.

If you are not measuring a short circuit across C960 then you need to check the two small capacitors near the bridge rectifier position, marked "103". Measure each one. They should both measure open circuit. If either of them measures short circuit, it's faulty and must be replaced.

Are you sure you measured the bridge rectifier correctly?
 
I posted pics of the wires not shorted and shorted on 200 ohms.
Yes, the rectifier is good, i watched some videos also to make sure i did it right.
It looks like the 103 capacitors are no good because i dont get any reading
 

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KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK, those indications are right. When the probes are open circuit, it shows "1 ." and when they're short circuited, it shows 1.6Ω. This is OK.

It looks like the 103 capacitors are no good because i dont get any reading
What do you mean you "don't get any reading"?

Does the multimeter show "1 ."? That's an open circuit indication and it means the capacitors are OK.
Does the multimeter show a number less than 2.0? That's a short circuit indication and it means the capacitors are faulty.

You need to be clear with your language otherwise you waste time.
 
Sorry, i got confused with what you said on how to test them.
The 103 capacitors are showing the open circuit reading "1 ." like it shows in my photo
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK that's good. So they're OK.

When you measure across C960 do you measure a short circuit, or something else?

Also, can you measure for shorts on the 3.3V rail (probe points marked A) and 5V rail (probe points marked B). I've labelled the bridge rectifier holes so you can match the photo up to the board.

epoint 271769 measuring 5V and 3.3V rails.jpg
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK, well, there doesn't appear to be a direct short.

epoint 271769 disconnection points for 3.3V and 5V rails.jpg

There are three points marked above. They are the places where the 5V and 3.3V rails go when they've left the regulator. I would like you to disconnect all three connection points, refit the bridge rectifier, install a new fuse, reinstall the board, plug everything in, and power it all up, and see what happens.

The point marked "1" is the end of a link wire on the board. You need to desolder it, ideally using a solder sucker, and pull the link wire out from the other side so it's completely disconnected.

Points 2 and 3 are connections on a 5-pin wire-to-board connector with an orange shroud and a length of ribbon cable. It may be difficult to deal with. The best option is to desolder all five pins and remove the connector completely from the board. But you could also just desolder those two marked pins, and ensure that there are no solder whiskers connecting the pins to the board. Both of those pad-to-pin connections need to be reliably broken.

This test will be testing the power supply section (the bridge rectifier, the smoothing capacitor (C960), and both regulators), with the rest of the circuitry (on the 5V and 3.3V rails) disconnected. It's a quick way to isolate the problem. If the fuse still blows, there is still a problem in the power supply section. If it doesn't, there may be a short somewhere else in the unit.
 
Sorry for the late reply, I had to put things on hold.

Is it OK to desolder the 5 pin connector like you said and leave it off while testing? Or do the other pins on that connector need to make contact still?
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK, so the short is downstream of the regulators.

Unfortunately it's not a direct short so it may not show up with your multimeter. It's quickest to test by reconnecting those three points, one by one, and seeing when the fuse blows. I hope you have some spare fuses!

Try reconnecting the jumper wire marked "1" in post #28 and see what happens. If the fuse blows, the short is on that board, beyond that jumper.

If the fuse doesn't blow, refit the 5-pin connector and solder all pins except the one marked "3" - try to isolate it if you can - and try again. If the fuse blows, the fault is on one of the other boards.

If the fuse still doesn't blow, solder the pin marked "3" and check that the fuse blows now!
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK, that's the 3.3V rail. That wire goes to the "main board" but it isn't used there. It's used on the "Digital Board". It arrives at the board at the bottom of page 20 of the service manual, on pin "4-4". From there, it powers the Audio DSP, IC1112, and a lot of other ICs on that board.

Do you have a copy of the service manual? If not, you should get a copy from http://elektrotanya.com/sony_str-da333es_da555es.pdf/download.html. Underneath the preview is the text "This file is downloadable free of charge. ...processing". Wait 30 seconds and "...processing" turns into a link you can click to download it.

Can you trace the 3.3V rail through the Main Board and to the Digital Board, and take some photos of the Digital Board. Also, see if it's possible to disconnect just that wire (or lift a jumper wire, or something) on the Digital Board, because I want to check that the rail is the right voltage. That will be the next step.
 
Ok, i couldnt download the service manual, but heres the photo of the digital board.
For the pin you marked "3" i have that wire cut instead because i would have to take everything all apart again to solder it back on. I just tested it with the wire cut, and then tested it with the wires back connected.
 

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KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
OK, what did you "test" when you cut the wire? Did you put in a new fuse and see whether it blew or not? Did it blow? If the short is on the digital board, which I think it is, then the fuse would not blow when that wire is cut.

We need to check that the 3.3V rail from the regulator is the right voltage, because it's possible that the regulator has failed and is sending too much voltage to the digital board. If that's the problem, components on the digital board could have been damaged. So let's hope that's not the problem.

With the wire to the digital board cut, and the fuse replaced, power up and measure the voltage across the 3.3V regulator's output. Those are the points marked "A" in the picture in post #26. You should get 3.3V ±0.1V.
 
Yes, I had put Ina new fuse and powered it up with the wire cut and the fuse didn't blow. The "protection fan" was no longer on display either as if the receiver was acting normal. Then I turned it off and reconnected the cut wire, I powered it up and the fuse blew.

Right now i just reinstalled the digital board and reconnected all the wires besides the cut wire. I put in a new fuse and I measured the voltage across the 3.3V regulator and got a 9.86V reading
 
How will i know if that board is fried after i replace the regulator?
What would cause the regulator to fail?
 

KrisBlueNZ

Sadly passed away in 2015
You'll know that devices are dead if the fuse still blows, or the regulator gets hot, or the unit doesn't work (or doesn't work properly).

The regulator might have failed because of overvoltage at its input from a power surge, but most likely it just failed internally. Semiconductors do that occasionally. Google bathtub curve for more information.
 
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