R
robb
well i was wrong it is %3 perox, not %5
think this will make a difference ?
thanks for info,
robb
think this will make a difference ?
thanks for info,
robb
what software is best used to make the images for the DIY laser printer PCB
resist trick ?
ie. print image on the laser printer, iron on copper cover board, wash away
paper, disolve exposed copper, remove the plastic, drill holes .....
thanks for any help,
rob
Software WILL NOT solve the paper path problem; that path *MUST* be
perfectly straight to allow the passage of a PCB.
Also, the printer must allow for rather thick paper ("pasteboard"
comes to mind).
Damn few printer models had straight paths; you may have to do some
difficult reseach and get a used printer.
might have to break out one of my old PC boxes to test those DOS
versions out.
Software WILL NOT solve the paper path problem; that path *MUST*
be
perfectly straight to allow the passage of a PCB.
Also, the printer must allow for rather thick paper ("pasteboard"
comes to mind).
Damn few printer models had straight paths; you may have to do
some
difficult reseach and get a used printer.
what software is best used to make the images for the DIY laser
printer PCB
.....
i read on the various sites about amking copper disolve with a
1:1:1 mix of muriaticeroxide:water ? is that true or make a
good etchant ? and surely they are not refering to the 5%
peroxide found in the local drug/food stores ? if not then what
% peroxide content would one want to use ?
[email protected] said:I'm using this solution. Though it's 1:2 acideroxide for me. You
don't need water as hydrogen peroxide is 99.5 % water or more. And
yes, they are referring to the weak peroxide you can buy in drug
stores. Muriatic acid is just weak hydrochloric acid (again, more
water than acid).
My typical experience is that a freshly made solution will etch a 10cm
by 5cm board in under 5 minutes at room temperature without agitation.
Though towards the end of 5 minutes I'd recommend having a look at the
board and manually shake your etching tray until done. That's because
although this solution is very cheap it is also very strong and can
over-etch if you leave your board in for too long.
If you're only making a few PCBs occasionally then the solution will
keep for about a week. You can add a bit more peroxide if you find it
a bit weak after a couple of days.
If you're making lots of PCBs then you should invest in a bubble tank.
Not to speed up etching, this stuff etches in under 5 minutes as is
already, but to re-generate the etchant. Once the solution turns blue
or bluish green pump bubbles into it until it becomes light green.
Then what you have is a completely different etchant -- cupric acid
which is a very good industrial grade etchant. Once you've got your
cupric acid then you can basically keep regenerating it with air
bubbles whenever it weakens.
I'm using this solution. Though it's 1:2 acideroxide for me. You
don't need water as hydrogen peroxide is 99.5 % water or more. And
yes, they are referring to the weak peroxide you can buy in drug
stores. Muriatic acid is just weak hydrochloric acid (again, more
water than acid).
My typical experience is that a freshly made solution will etch a 10cm
by 5cm board in under 5 minutes at room temperature without agitation.
Though towards the end of 5 minutes I'd recommend having a look at the
board and manually shake your etching tray until done. That's because
although this solution is very cheap it is also very strong and can
over-etch if you leave your board in for too long.
If you're only making a few PCBs occasionally then the solution will
keep for about a week. You can add a bit more peroxide if you find it
a bit weak after a couple of days.
If you're making lots of PCBs then you should invest in a bubble tank.
Not to speed up etching, this stuff etches in under 5 minutes as is
already, but to re-generate the etchant. Once the solution turns blue
or bluish green pump bubbles into it until it becomes light green.
Then what you have is a completely different etchant -- cupric acid
which is a very good industrial grade etchant. Once you've got your
cupric acid then you can basically keep regenerating it with air
bubbles whenever it weakens.
RST said:By the way, has anybody taken the time to teach you how to snip?
robb said:i am using ExpressPCB[...]
I need to print one of the images (bottom or top ) flipped
and having trouble.
JeffM said:robb said:i am using ExpressPCB[...]
I need to print one of the images (bottom or top ) flipped
and having trouble.
I believe I already used the phrases "lock-in-ware"
"jump thru hoops" (SPECIFICALLY about printing)
and "real deal".
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From: "robb" <[email protected]>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.basics,sci.electronics.design
Subject: [ExpressPCB] how to print for 2 layer board ? was:software used to make the laserprinter
PCB etch resist images ?
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 10:25:46 -0400
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hello,
i am using ExpressPCB and i have two layer board.
I need to print one of the images (bottom or top ) flipped and
having trouble.
there is a flip option for components so i tried to make my
drawing a component but i can not create a component with traces.
So what is the method for producing a flipped/mirrored image of
the PCB traces ?
I can export to a bmp but
thanks for any help,
robb
Hello i posted some of my PCB progress inrobb said:what software is best used to make the images for the DIY laser printer PCB
resist trick ?
ie. print image on the laser printer, iron on copper cover board, wash away
paper, disolve exposed copper, remove the plastic, drill holes ......
hi ,
do you know if phosphoric or oxalic acid can safely be
substituted for the muriatic ? i noticed they have similar pKa
value.
robb
[deceitful SPAM]
(was: making laserprinter PCB etch resist images ?)
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