Softeen 500W Led Fog Machine with Lights, circuit board has melted and I need help identifying it

[Bowej114]

Hello I recently bought a Softeen 500w led fog machine with lights and it stopped working after opening it up I found a circuit board that had gotten fluid on it, The board had burnt and I can’t identify what it is to buy a new one. If anyone could help that would be much appreciated

I can’t upload an image but the board has HC DRIVER V20 etched on the back

I have added a link with a video showing the board if that’s any help

 

[kellys_eye]

Why go to all the effort of post a video when we can't SEE the board (in close up)?

Post a close-up, hi-res, in focus picture of the board.

 

[Bowej114]

Why go to all the effort of post a video when we can't SEE the board (in close up)?

Post a close-up, hi-res, in focus picture of the board.

Hello everytime I try to upload a photo of it (I’m using an iPhone X’s max so I don’t know if that’s got something to do with it) it comes up with the following error occurred there was a problem uploading your file 0AC92E66-1717-4770-9D87-B7C91173279C.jpeg

 

[kellys_eye]

Picture size - there are limits to what can be displayed on this forum. Use an image editor to resize pictures to 1024x768 or 800x600.

 

[Bowej114]

Picture size - there are limits to what can be displayed on this forum. Use an image editor to resize pictures to 1024x768 or 800x600.

Do any of these pictures help you identify or are they still not clear enough?
(Also the wires coming off the board are connected to a set of LED lights and the other set are connected to a remote receiver so the machine can produce smoke once the buttons are held in and I believe the machine doesn’t work due to to this board being melted and the signals not getting through)

 

[Bowej114]

The person I bought it from said that the board is custom made in their factory and that he doesn’t have a model name or number for it, would any of you know how I would go about getting one of these or am I out of luck here?

 

[kellys_eye]

I can see that the device closest to the burned area is a bridge rectifier. Looks to have been a small SMPS to provide a voltage for the rest of the circuit and the smoothing capacitor looks to have arced over, burning the board area.

I'd guess that C1 is rated at 400V (if that's a board supplied by 230V) or 200V-ish (if supplied by 120V) and C2 will be rated at AROUND the DC output voltage the board is meant to produce.

Thereby lies the clue (answer). What details can you read from C2????

 

[Bowej114]

I can see that the device closest to the burned area is a bridge rectifier. Looks to have been a small SMPS to provide a voltage for the rest of the circuit and the smoothing capacitor looks to have arced over, burning the board area.

I'd guess that C1 is rated at 400V (if that's a board supplied by 230V) or 200V-ish (if supplied by 120V) and C2 will be rated at AROUND the DC output voltage the board is meant to produce.

Thereby lies the clue (answer). What details can you read from C2????

View attachment 43800 View attachment 43803

Thanks for that mate, would you have any idea on how I’d go about obtaining one of these boards then?

 

[(*steve*)]

If you can answer the questions you've been asked then you may be well on the way to finding a decent substitute.

 

[kellys_eye]

Thanks for that mate, would you have any idea on how I’d go about obtaining one of these boards then?

Try the manufacturers of course.

I asked those particular questions to try to establish what it was the board actually outputted because if replacement boards are not available (and if this one is not repairable) then you could find an alternative device (board, module, whatever) that provided the same output and you could just 'fling it in there'.

 

[Bowej114]

Sorry completely scanned over your questions without realising you asked any, on the c1 (green capacitor) it has got markings on it of 50v 10uf and markings of a temperature rating of 105•c and the c2 (blue capacitor) has 400v 4.7 uf on it with a temp rating of 130•c

The manufacturer said that replacement boards are not an option so I am looking for a substitute as the boards beyond repair. Would you need any more details to try and help? Thanks heaps

 

[Bowej114]

Try the manufacturers of course.

I asked those particular questions to try to establish what it was the board actually outputted because if replacement boards are not available (and if this one is not repairable) then you could find an alternative device (board, module, whatever) that provided the same output and you could just 'fling it in there'.

Regarding my last message I also found this in the box that it come in it provides minimal specs at the bottom and I’m not sure if this would help with your identification but thought I would add it Incase

 

[kellys_eye]

The spec offers no clues as to what you need.

Details of the rest of the equipment that the output of that damaged board connects to might reveal something.

We can gather that the output from the board is a DC voltage or fairly low current and somewhere between 18V and 48V. You could try to obtain a variable supply and fit it where it belongs, varying the output (starting low of course) until proper operation resumes and then fit a fixed supply voltage to replace the variable one.

If you can show where the damage board connects to the rest of the unit we might discover more.