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Seeking schematics/plans for decimal to binary (microswitch/relay)selector/controller

I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

http://www.retroblast.com/Misc/Vectrex.php
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review (4).JPG
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review (12).JPG

The selector would have two 7-segment LEDs that display the currently
selected program number (0-31), and a couple pushbuttons (+/-) that
let you
increase/decrease the program #. The device translates the number
into
binary and turns on/off the appropriate switches or relays which are
attached to the jumpers on the device (ie the above game cartridge).

Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

Does anyone know of any plans or schematics out on the Web to
construct
something like these? (For now I just wire switches to the jumpers.)

Thanks.
 
L

linnix

I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

http://www.retroblast.com/Misc/Vect...m/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vect...

The selector would have two 7-segment LEDs that display the currently
selected program number (0-31), and a couple pushbuttons (+/-) that
let you
increase/decrease the program #. The device translates the number
into
binary and turns on/off the appropriate switches or relays which are
attached to the jumpers on the device (ie the above game cartridge).

Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

Does anyone know of any plans or schematics out on the Web to
construct
something like these? (For now I just wire switches to the jumpers.)

Thanks.

Yes, an AVR should work. Your requirements are very similar to our
project: Two or Four buttons, 3 digits LCD, 4 channels A2D, runtime
current 2mA, power down current 50uA. A button cell battery (CR2032)
would last 6 months in power down.

See:
http://linnix.com/proto
 
J

John Fields

I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

http://www.retroblast.com/Misc/Vectrex.php
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review (4).JPG
http://www.retroblast.com/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vectrex/Vectrex_Review (12).JPG

The selector would have two 7-segment LEDs that display the currently
selected program number (0-31), and a couple pushbuttons (+/-) that
let you
increase/decrease the program #. The device translates the number
into
binary and turns on/off the appropriate switches or relays which are
attached to the jumpers on the device (ie the above game cartridge).

---
If you want to do it in hardware you could use a couple of 74XX193's
feeding an EEPROM with a lookup table burned into it as described
below.

You'd also want to decode 32 and 128 (overflow for your setup and
underflow for the counter) and use those decodes to generate a reset
pulse which would send the counter and the displays back to zero.
---
Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

---
Bad idea.

If you want a resolution of one part in 255 out of a single turn pot
with a rotation angle of (say) 330° degrees from stop-to-stop that
translates into a granularity of about 1.3°, which means you'd be
hard-pressed to select one value out of 255 (if only because of
stiction) no matter how much you diddled the pot.

However, if you used only the 5 MSBs, that's 330°/31 steps, which
will get you 10.6° per step, which is eminently doable.

The displays are easy, too, since all you need to do is program an
EPROM with the following truth table:

ADDRESS | BCD DATA | DISPLAY
----------|-----------|---------
0000000 0000 0000 00
0000001 0000 0001 01
0000010 0000 0010 02
0000011 0000 0011 03
0000100 0000 0100 04
0000101 0000 0101 05
0000110 0000 0110 06
0000111 0000 0111 07
0001000 0000 1000 08
0001001 0000 1001 09
0001010 0001 0000 10
0001011 0001 0001 11
0001100 0001 0010 12
0001101 0001 0011 13
0001110 0001 0100 14
0001111 0001 0101 15
0010000 0001 0110 16
0010001 0001 0111 17
0010010 0001 1000 18
0010011 0001 1001 19
0010100 0010 0000 20
0010101 0010 0001 21
0010110 0010 0010 22
0010111 0010 0011 23
0011000 0010 0100 24
0011001 0010 0101 25
0011010 0010 0110 26
0011011 0000 0111 27
0011100 0000 1000 28
0011101 0000 0001 29
0011110 0011 0000 30
0011111 0011 0001 31

and then connect the outputs to a couple of BCD to seven-segment
decoder-drivers.
 
I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

<snip>

Why don't you just use a rotary switch which opens and closes four
outputs. You can get binary coded decimal or hexadecimal - if you use
a hex switch your users have to understand the the sequence
0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B.D,E,F.

Farnell stocks both kinds of switch in a variety of formats, and there
must be other broad-line distributors who cater to the segment of the
market.

It's a lot easier and cheaper than programming a PIVC and wiring up 7-
segment displays.
 
J

John Fields

<snip>

Why don't you just use a rotary switch which opens and closes four
outputs. You can get binary coded decimal or hexadecimal - if you use
a hex switch your users have to understand the the sequence
0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B.D,E,F.

---
What, no "C"? ;)
---

Farnell stocks both kinds of switch in a variety of formats, and there
must be other broad-line distributors who cater to the segment of the
market.

It's a lot easier and cheaper than programming a PIVC and wiring up 7-
segment displays.

---
You still have to wire up seven-segment displays, and you still have
to wire up them up to BCD to seven-segment decoder-drivers, and you
have to wire the inputs of the decoder-drivers to pulled-up or
pulled-down switch contacts, so the only advantage is not having to
use logic to drive the decoder inputs.

Which, when you look at the price of BCD encoded rotary switches
turns out to be a serious _dis_ advantage.

Go to:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1114210

and filter on "BCD" and "Panel Mount" for a shock.

I'm sure that there are cheaper versions out there, but If I was
going to do it that way I'd use a cheap mechanical quadrature shaft
encoder.
 
Oops. That should have been 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B,C,D,E,F. Sorry.
---
You still have to wire up seven-segment displays, and you still have
to wire up them up to BCD to seven-segment decoder-drivers, and you
have to wire the inputs of the decoder-drivers to pulled-up or
pulled-down switch contacts, so the only advantage is not having to
use logic to drive the decoder inputs.

Hexadecimal rotary switches have a pointer on the rotating bit which
points to the appropriate number out of the 16 printed on the front of
the part - you see the numbers and the pointer by virtue of the light
reflected from them. Wasting time and effort duplicating this with a
seven segment display may play well in Texas, but in areas where
congenital stupidity is not part of the birthright it would be seen as
a bit odd.
Which, when you look at the price of BCD encoded rotary switches
turns out to be a serious _dis_ advantage.

You can pay of the order of $20 (if the U.S. dollar hasn't completely
collapsed since I looked at this evening paper) for a fancy
hexadecimal switch intended to end up on the front panel of
"professional" gear, or you can pay a couple of dollars for a part in
a dual-in-line package intended to be soldered into a board.

Even Texas now has minimum wage legislation, so spending a couple of
hours wiring up several unnecessary seven segment display would chew
up rather more money than you'd need to spend even on a professional
rotary switch.
Go to:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=1114210

and filter on "BCD" and "Panel Mount" for a shock.

My Digi-Key paper catalogue offers RTE DIL parts for around $3.00 each
- the catalogue does date back before the last Republican assault on
the U.S. economy, so current prices may be higher.
I'm sure that there are cheaper versions out there, but If I was
going to do it that way I'd use a cheap mechanical quadrature shaft
encoder.

And a couple of expensive 7-segment displays to tell you how far you'd
rotated the shaft?
 
H

Hal Murray

What's the term for the kind of switch/knob/input-device that
is just a knob on the front with some sort of spring loaded
positioning at detents. There are several/many detent positions
per rotation but no numbers on the front panel.

They are used for things like uProc controlled scopes where the
sweep speed has a zillion settings. You give the knob a spin
to get to the right range then fiddle a bit to get to the exact
setting you want.

Inside, I assume they have a 2 bit optical encoder and a set
of magnets to make the detents.
 
J

John Fields

Oops. That should have been 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,A,B,C,D,E,F. Sorry.


Hexadecimal rotary switches have a pointer on the rotating bit which
points to the appropriate number out of the 16 printed on the front of
the part - you see the numbers and the pointer by virtue of the light
reflected from them.

---
Not always, and why are you going on about a 16 state hexadecimal
switch which can only switch between 16 channels when the OP said
he's looking for a BCD display and the ability to switch between 32
channels?

You do know how BCD works, don't you?
---
Wasting time and effort duplicating this with a
seven segment display may play well in Texas, but in areas where
congenital stupidity is not part of the birthright it would be seen as
a bit odd.

---
Well, since I wasn't born in Texas that little tirade doesn't apply
to me, so I guess your bashing is just you venting your resentment
at Texans in general because of your being supported by the
doctorate that your wife took (and the rules she had to follow in
order to win it) at the University of Texas.

Besides, the OP stated that he wanted to use seven-segment displays
so, unlike you, who wants to shove his "solutions" down everybody's
throats I prefer to give 'em what they ask for.

If he wants to use an UP/DOWN pushbutton scheme, or a pot and an
ADC, that's fine with me and I enjoy the exercise of executing the
design, while it seems all you enjoy is trying to execute the
designer.
---
You can pay of the order of $20 (if the U.S. dollar hasn't completely
collapsed since I looked at this evening paper) for a fancy
hexadecimal switch intended to end up on the front panel of
"professional" gear, or you can pay a couple of dollars for a part in
a dual-in-line package intended to be soldered into a board.

---
Ah, but if the application calls for a front panel, then the panel
mounted rotary switch (or the ON/OFF pushbuttons, or the pot and
ADC, or the rotary encoder, or thumbwheel switches, etc, etc.) could
be used to good advantage, especially if the front panel was
screened with numerical switch position/channel legends.
---
Even Texas now has minimum wage legislation, so spending a couple of
hours wiring up several unnecessary seven segment display would chew
up rather more money than you'd need to spend even on a professional
rotary switch.

---
Several hours???

I guess you've never heard of PCB mount seven-segment displays.
---

My Digi-Key paper catalogue offers RTE DIL parts for around $3.00 each
- the catalogue does date back before the last Republican assault on
the U.S. economy, so current prices may be higher.

---
You really do have trouble staying on track and you never miss a
chance to spew vitriol, do you?
---
And a couple of expensive 7-segment displays to tell you how far you'd
rotated the shaft?

---
And in which direction. Of course, if that's what the client
wanted. You, however, would deride your client's wishes and insist
on doing it your way, and in the process lose friend and fee.

Fucking myopic idiot, you are.
 
J

John Fields

On Fri, 25 Jan 2008 23:30:13 -0600,
What's the term for the kind of switch/knob/input-device that
is just a knob on the front with some sort of spring loaded
positioning at detents. There are several/many detent positions
per rotation but no numbers on the front panel.

They are used for things like uProc controlled scopes where the
sweep speed has a zillion settings. You give the knob a spin
to get to the right range then fiddle a bit to get to the exact
setting you want.

Inside, I assume they have a 2 bit optical encoder and a set
of magnets to make the detents.
 
---
Not always, and why are you going on about a 16 state hexadecimal
switch which can only switch between 16 channels when the OP said
he's looking for a BCD display and the ability to switch between 32
channels?

You do know how BCD works, don't you?
---

Sure. But what the client asks for, what the client wants, and what
the client needs are three different things.
You get satisfied customers by giving them what they need at minimum
expense. If they really need a BCD display, that's what you give them,
but if they can settle for two parallel octal rotary switches
displaying all the octal numbers from 00 to 37 or one hex rotary
switch plus a toggle switch the circuit can be much simpler and
appreciably cheaper

Besides, the OP stated that he wanted to use seven-segment displays
so, unlike you, who wants to shove his "solutions" down everybody's
throats I prefer to give 'em what they ask for.

I prefer to give them what they want, rather than what they ask for.
Getting them to understand what they actually want can take a while
and requires some diplomacy - not one of my strong points and not a
skill user groups offer the space to exercise.
If he wants to use an UP/DOWN pushbutton scheme, or a pot and an
ADC, that's fine with me and I enjoy the exercise of executing the
design, while it seems all you enjoy is trying to execute the
designer.
---

One of the marks of a good designer is that capacity to step back and
see what the client wants done - this does require some understanding
of what the client might be trying to achieve, and can frequently
avoid a great deal of unnecessary elaboration.
---
Ah, but if the application calls for a front panel, then the panel
mounted rotary switch (or the ON/OFF pushbuttons, or the pot and
ADC, or the rotary encoder, or thumbwheel switches, etc, etc.) could
be used to good advantage, especially if the front panel was
screened with numerical switch position/channel legends.
---  

Silk-screened front panels cost money - for prototype work we just
used Letraset transfers onto brushed aluminium to create the legends
and protected them with a layer or two of polyurethane varnish.
Cheaper and a great deal quicker.

Laying out a board to create a single protoptype can be worth the
effort for very high speed electronics. For this sort of work a one-
off prototype is usually hand-soldered onto perforated prototyping
boards. You can wire-wrap the connections but I've not seen it done in
recent years. If you've got access to a printed circuit layout program
that can do auto-routing, creating a printed circuit layout can be the
quickest way to get to a working board, but going from gerbers to
etched boards takes a certain amount of organisation which a
mad.scientist might not be able to access.

In case you hadn't noticed, the defects in your banking system
recently produced dramatic falls in every stock market around the
world. That gave everybody a lot more trouble than any comment I could
possibly make.
Try and vote for somebody with an ounce of sense in the next set of
presidential elections.

What the client thought they wanted, not knowing what alternatives
were available.
You, however, would deride your client's wishes and insist
on doing it your way, and in the process lose friend and fee.

While your approach might be described as the electronic equivalent of
the vanity publisher. Flattering for the client, but scarcely offering
them the kind of service they ought to be able to expect from someone
skilled in the art.
Fucking myopic idiot, you are.

Myopic I am - in one eye. The other one has mild astigmatism, which is
why I've still got binocular vision. Whether I'm an idiot or not is
not a subject on which you are equipped to express a useful opinion.
Yesterday's job interview went well enough to show I don't look like
an idiot to people who do know something about electronics, but then
again I've always done well with the engineers at Philips - it has
always been the personnel department that has been unhappy with my
qualifications.
 
B

Bob Monsen

John Fields said:
[snip]
Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

---
Bad idea.

If you want a resolution of one part in 255 out of a single turn pot
with a rotation angle of (say) 330° degrees from stop-to-stop that
translates into a granularity of about 1.3°, which means you'd be
hard-pressed to select one value out of 255 (if only because of
stiction) no matter how much you diddled the pot.
[snip]

You could use a multi-turn potentiometer. A 10 turn pot would make it much
easier, since a selection would then be 14°, which would be much more
manageable. Using a 'heavy' knob, which would keep spinning due to angular
momentum would make it less tedious to dial from 0 to 255.

One issue with this approach is that it might change if it is near the
cutoff point, or worse, oscillate between two due to vibration.

Another issue has to do with my microwave (that I just dumped today because
of terrible interference problem with cordless phones) which had a a
spinning knob to select the cook time. It was a free spinning dial, which
would change more quickly depending on the velocity of the dial. It was very
tedious to use, so while the interface might seem like a good idea, it
probably isn't.

(The uWave was a Panasonic 1300W oven, for those who wish to avoid
interference. I even went out and bought a 5Gig phone to avoid it, and it
actually interfered with the new phone. I'm surprised it passed FCC testing.
It must have been spraying EM all over the airwaves to interfere with a 5Gig
phone.)

Regards,
Bob Monsen
 
J

John Fields

Sure. But what the client asks for, what the client wants, and what
the client needs are three different things.

---
And you, of course, are the one who will determine what the client
gets?

Reminds me of the joke where this guy goes into a brothel and asks
the madam if she runs a union shop. The madam says no, and the guy
asks how she splits up the take. She replies, "Well, out of every
$100 we take in the girl gets $40, the house gets $40, and I get
$20.

Outraged, the guy leaves and goes to another brothel which he finds
_is_ a union shop and that the girl gets $60 and the house gets $40,
out of which the madam takes her cut. "That's more like it," he
says, "I'd like Lily, over there."

"I'm sure you would," replies the madam, "but you'll take Emma; she
has seniority."
---
You get satisfied customers by giving them what they need at minimum
expense. If they really need a BCD display, that's what you give them,
but if they can settle for two parallel octal rotary switches
displaying all the octal numbers from 00 to 37 or one hex rotary
switch plus a toggle switch the circuit can be much simpler and
appreciably cheaper

---
What a horse's ass you are.

One gets satisfied customers by giving them what they want, and
second guessing them by telling them that what they really need and
what you'll provide them with is the Stilton you've selected for
them instead of the Roquefort they really want isn't going to get
you many happy campers.

Or, BTW, many employment offers.
---
I prefer to give them what they want, rather than what they ask for.

---
No, you prefer to give them what you think they should have.
---
Getting them to understand what they actually want can take a while
and requires some diplomacy - not one of my strong points and not a
skill user groups offer the space to exercise.

---
I think the problem isn't one of their being able to determine what
they want, it more like your _not_ being able to determine what they
want and trying to force your decision of what they need down their
throats.
---
One of the marks of a good designer is that capacity to step back and
see what the client wants done - this does require some understanding
of what the client might be trying to achieve, and can frequently
avoid a great deal of unnecessary elaboration.

---
Yes, and you certainly proved that you had no clue that the OP
_wanted_ to be able to switch 31 channels and get a decimal
representation of the hot channel decimally when you unnecessarily
elaborated on that totally useless hexadecimal implementation.
---
Silk-screened front panels cost money - for prototype work we just
used Letraset transfers onto brushed aluminium to create the legends
and protected them with a layer or two of polyurethane varnish.
Cheaper and a great deal quicker.

---
Yes, and I've used Dymo labels. So what?

The point isn't that some panel marking methods are cheaper than
others, it's that, basically, your hex "solution" won't yield the
results the OP asked for.
---
Laying out a board to create a single protoptype can be worth the
effort for very high speed electronics. For this sort of work a one-
off prototype is usually hand-soldered onto perforated prototyping
boards. You can wire-wrap the connections but I've not seen it done in
recent years.

---
Oh, well...

If I don't go directly from schematic to PCB that's exactly how I do
my prototypes and one-offs. Vector T-44 terminals hot-pressed into
FR-4 perfboard with 0.025" diameter holes on a 0.1" rectangular
grid.

Components are mounted on the forked side of the terminal and the
connections wire-wrapped on the other side of the board. For
high-frequency stuff I use single or double sided copper clad
perfboard and spot-face a 0.1" diameter space around the terminals.

Works great.
---
If you've got access to a printed circuit layout program
that can do auto-routing, creating a printed circuit layout can be the
quickest way to get to a working board, but going from gerbers to
etched boards takes a certain amount of organisation which a
mad.scientist might not be able to access.

---
Again you digress.
---
In case you hadn't noticed, the defects in your banking system
recently produced dramatic falls in every stock market around the
world. That gave everybody a lot more trouble than any comment I could
possibly make.
Try and vote for somebody with an ounce of sense in the next set of
presidential elections.

---
This is supposed to be a technical discussion, not an outlet for
your anti-American garbage. You really do have trouble staying on
track and you never miss a chance to spew vitriol, do you?
---
What the client thought they wanted, not knowing what alternatives
were available.

---
You grasp at straws, Sloman.

The client described what he wanted to achieve and presented a
couple of ways he thought would get him where he wanted to be.

Your cockamamie hex rotary switch "solution", LOL, cannot by itself
a decimal display make.
---
While your approach might be described as the electronic equivalent of
the vanity publisher. Flattering for the client, but scarcely offering
them the kind of service they ought to be able to expect from someone
skilled in the art.

---
LOL, I'm prepared to provide the OP with schematics for either or
both of the two 32 channel switch systems he earlier showed interest
in, (one of which I critiqued in order to show him a better way)
while all you're prepared to do is flap your gums about how he
should settle for hex switching and learn to interpret a,b,...
---
Myopic I am - in one eye. The other one has mild astigmatism, which is
why I've still got binocular vision. Whether I'm an idiot or not is
not a subject on which you are equipped to express a useful opinion.

---
In my opinion, your opinion as to whether or not I'm equipped to
express a useful opinion is flawed.
---
Yesterday's job interview went well enough to show I don't look like
an idiot to people who do know something about electronics, but then
again I've always done well with the engineers at Philips - it has
always been the personnel department that has been unhappy with my
qualifications.

---
Too bad you're so easily outwitted and made to stand outside the
gates, cap in hand, by the morons in the personnel department.
Seems like after all these years, if you were any good, you'd at
least have _some_ internal engineering contacts who were aware of
your massive talents, wanted you on board, and could lean on
personnel in your behalf.
 
F

Fred Bloggs

(The uWave was a Panasonic 1300W oven, for those who wish to avoid
interference. I even went out and bought a 5Gig phone to avoid it, and
it actually interfered with the new phone. I'm surprised it passed FCC
testing. It must have been spraying EM all over the airwaves to
interfere with a 5Gig phone.)

Sounds like a bad seal implementation, hard to get more than 1uW/cm^2
even right on top of the panel or door. Interference that bad could only
be caused by insufficient or severely imbalanced tightening of the
'tron' bolts and gasket.. or it may have been something awry with the
input filter on that crummy little 36KHz inverter, if it had one of those.
 
S

Stephen J. Rush

Sounds like a bad seal implementation, hard to get more than 1uW/cm^2
even right on top of the panel or door. Interference that bad could only
be caused by insufficient or severely imbalanced tightening of the
'tron' bolts and gasket.. or it may have been something awry with the
input filter on that crummy little 36KHz inverter, if it had one of
those.

I use Comcast (I know, but it's what's available) and I see only a few
spam posts a day here, mostly cheap shoes and that damned islamospammer,
with the odd update on the old chain letter.
 
J

John Fields

John Fields said:
[snip]
Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

---
Bad idea.

If you want a resolution of one part in 255 out of a single turn pot
with a rotation angle of (say) 330° degrees from stop-to-stop that
translates into a granularity of about 1.3°, which means you'd be
hard-pressed to select one value out of 255 (if only because of
stiction) no matter how much you diddled the pot.
[snip]

You could use a multi-turn potentiometer. A 10 turn pot would make it much
easier, since a selection would then be 14°, which would be much more
manageable.

---
I guess you missed this part about using a single-turn pot and an
ADC:

"However, if you used only the 5 MSBs, that's 330°/31 steps, which
will get you 10.6° per step, which is eminently doable." :)

That would also get rid of the tedium of getting to a distant
channel and the expense of the 10 turn pot.
 
J

John Fields

---
So the reason you have binocular vision is _because_ you have myopia
in one eye and mild astigmatism in the other?
 
M

MooseFET

Yes, and I've used Dymo labels. So what?

The point isn't that some panel marking methods are cheaper than
others,

A sort of cute trick for making a front pannel on a breadboard /proto
version is:

Draw up you suggested pannel with a CAD package. Print it on the
Laser printer. Take the 3M transfer tape and put the glue down on the
metal panel. Stick down the printed version. Punch the holes to line
up and install the controls.

You can add the 3M sticky Mylar to make the panel stay looking good
for a while.

This works fairly well for a "it will be kind of like this" version.
It also works OK for making quick test jigs.

[....]
If I don't go directly from schematic to PCB that's exactly how I do
my prototypes and one-offs. Vector T-44 terminals hot-pressed into
FR-4 perfboard with 0.025" diameter holes on a 0.1" rectangular
grid.

I use
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2490581;keywords=capital
to make things up to about 100MHz. With a bit of creative use of
tinsnips, you can cut them down for what is needed.
 
I am interested in building a "selector" gadget for devices that take
jumpers
to select a program, such as this game cartridge where you have 5
jumpers
to select program #0-31 (the jumpers represent the binary number):

http://www.retroblast.com/Misc/Vect...m/images/stories/Image/rb_archive/photos/vect...

The selector would have two 7-segment LEDs that display the currently
selected program number (0-31), and a couple pushbuttons (+/-) that
let you
increase/decrease the program #. The device translates the number
into
binary and turns on/off the appropriate switches or relays which are
attached to the jumpers on the device (ie the above game cartridge).

Or I would even like to build a kind of analog to digital converter
device which has a potentiometer (for example 100k) which gets
translated
into an 8-bit number (0-255) and 8 switches get opened/closed that
represent the value of the pot. Adding three 7-segment LEDs to
display
the current value in decimal would be cool and then it could be used
as a "selector" as well.

Does anyone know of any plans or schematics out on the Web to
construct
something like these? (For now I just wire switches to the jumpers.)

Thanks.

This would be an easy project using a 8-pin picmiro (12f508,12F629...)
pic12f508 cost about a buck at digkey.com
You could use a simple momentary-switch to step through from 0-31
If you already have one of the pic progammers found on the web,
here's some code to get you started.

cblock
count
endc

Init
clrf count

main

btfsc GPIO,3 ;loop until switch is cleared
goto main
incf count,f ;increment count by 1
movf count,w ;copy count to Working Register
movwf GPIO ;Send Data to OUTput ports
xorlw .31 ;check to see if count is 31
btfss status,z ;If so reset back to Init
goto Init ;reset count to zero
goto main ;if count is not 31 then to main
end
 
J

John Fields

A sort of cute trick for making a front pannel on a breadboard /proto
version is:

Draw up you suggested pannel with a CAD package. Print it on the
Laser printer. Take the 3M transfer tape and put the glue down on the
metal panel. Stick down the printed version. Punch the holes to line
up and install the controls.

You can add the 3M sticky Mylar to make the panel stay looking good
for a while.

This works fairly well for a "it will be kind of like this" version.
It also works OK for making quick test jigs.

---
What I like to use for stuff like that is a sticky-back repro film
like Rayven 420, a polyester film with an adhesive backing so you
don't have to use transfer tape.

The part that's nice about using transfer tape, though, is that you
can print the mirror image of the panel on the film and then stick
it to the panel toner side down. That makes the image right-side up
and puts the film between the outside world and the toner, keeping
it from getting scuffed up.
---
[....]
If I don't go directly from schematic to PCB that's exactly how I do
my prototypes and one-offs. Vector T-44 terminals hot-pressed into
FR-4 perfboard with 0.025" diameter holes on a 0.1" rectangular
grid.

I use
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Cat=2490581;keywords=capital
to make things up to about 100MHz. With a bit of creative use of
tinsnips, you can cut them down for what is needed.
 
Yes - one eye was active for close work and the other when looking
farther away so neither one went "lazy".
Apparently there was distance where both gave much the same
information and I got to use binocular vision enough that it was still
there when I finally got spectacles, despite the opthalmologists
idiotic objections to spectacles for kids.

You comfort yourself with the thought that anything you can't
understand is idiocy.
 
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