A
Archimedes' Lever
**** off and die, you retarded twit.in your ass? No thanks.
**** off and die, you retarded twit.in your ass? No thanks.
I know you said for "Pure capacitors" and "ideal inductors".But justYou are both wrong.
With AC, Volts x Amps only gives the power with a resistive (heating)
load.
If you have an inductive load this is no longer true. (ie a motor.)
If it was a pure inductor, you could draw as many amps as you liked
and no power would be consumed.
Pure inductors only exist in theory BTW.
If you connect a capacitor across the mains, it will draw current but
no power will be consumed (virtually).
Pure capacitors (as near as dammit) exist.
The pair of you study this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor
I don't know where you Yanks get educated. God help America!
And, like the series Xmas lights of yore, when one goes out, they all
go out.
John Fields said:It's clear to me that if the motor load is resistive and draws 6 amperes
from 115VRMS mains, then the power delivered to a nonreactive mechanical
load cannot be greater than:
Actually its not correct at all.I'll ignore your feeble attempt at anBTW.
RMS means Root of the Mean Squared
It's a sort of "average" that indicates the DC equivalent of the
waveform.
EG For a sine wave the RMS value is 0.636 of the peak value.
For a square wave it is 0.5 of the peak value.
This is not a technically correct explanation BTW but I'm trying to
make it easy for you
Not if it fails shorted.
Actually its not correct at all.I'll ignore your feeble attempt at an
insult.
I think you may want to take a closure look at capacitors. They do
indeed have a resistive component obviously we aren't talking about a
resistor but it's the sum of all intrinsic extrinsic imperfections
impurities (chemical and packaging imperfections). This is modeled as
a resistor in series with the cap, this is responsible for capacitor
heating from ripple current. Several types of caps have double digit
esr figures go to digikey and look up Tantulm caps they spec the esr
parametrically. Polymer caps have single milli ohms digit or low teens
milli ohms esr but you pay for them in price as well as possibly a
more complicated loop compensation may be required for smps or LDO due
to the esr zero being useless at the HF that a small esr puts it
at.All capacitors have leakage as well; modeled as parallel resistor,
you place an additional resistor for discharging if the load wont
drain it quick enough at power off to comply with safety regulations
or if it's a requirement of the device to insure correct operation.
I'll leave the effect of inductances as a much needed exercise for you
to investigate.
When discussing power typically one uses average waveforms with
exception of say a sine wave with both positive and negative area
under the curve being equal; obviously the average would be zero This
would also apply to bipolar square waves haveing equal area +/-. Hence
rms describes the equivalent heating effect of a resistor.
Oh and by the way the mean of a sine wave is 0.636 the crest factor is
1/sqrt(2) and the rms is sqrt(2).
BTW.
RMS means Root of the Mean Squared
It's a sort of "average" that indicates the DC equivalent of the
waveform.
EG For a sine wave the RMS value is 0.636 of the peak value.
For a square wave it is 0.5 of the peak value.
This is not a technically correct explanation BTW but I'm trying to
make it easy for you
I can guess - one of the filament supports is springy - when the filament
opens, that support springs back, contacting another electrode, shorting
the bulb - but wouldn't that be kinda expensive?
Except a fillament virtually can NOT fail shorted. The bulb has toNot if it fails shorted.
Sonny, there is NO SUCH THING as a pure Resistive for a Motor.......
Pure resistive would be BEST CASE - So it cannot be BETTER than 690Sonny, there is NO SUCH THING as a pure Resistive for a Motor.......
You must be very young. I remember, oh, about a half-century ago, laying
the Xmas tree lights out on the floor, and if the string didn't light,
we'd take a known good bulb and go down the string swapping out bulbs,
one at a time; if the string didn't light, we'd take the bulb we just
removed from its socket and swap it out with the next one, and so on.
When the string lights up, you'd throw away the bulb that you just
removed/replaced.
Nowadays, they apparently do have low-V bulbs that are designed to fail
short; I'm danged if I know how they accomplish it.
I can guess - one of the filament supports is springy - when the filament
opens, that support springs back, contacting another electrode, shorting
the bulb - but wouldn't that be kinda expensive?
Something like trying to teach a pig how to sing...
JF
Except a fillament virtually can NOT fail shorted.
The bulb has to
besigned to be "failsafe",
so if the filament does not heat the bulb
shorts
You are nothing new, unique, interesting, worthwhile, or anything
good;
nothing but a waste of time.
Do Usenet a favor and
self-destruct.
on Fri said:...
You are nothing new, unique, interesting, worthwhile, or anything
good; nothing but a waste of time. Do Usenet a favor and
self-destruct.
Then you don't know much about decorative series string lightingNO! You said "and like the Xmas lights..." which means that you were
talking about arc lamps in series. THAT is what my comment is about.
Are you drunk, or do you just have a problem remembering what YOU
wrote?
I know how light bulbs fucking work. There is no such thing as such a
bulb "failing shorted" so you fail yet again on common sense as well.
So, while using your BRAIN, re-read what I wrote, which is CLREALY
referencing ARC LAMPS.
They are not incandescents.
Again, use your common sense. and NO, I know of NO light bulbs that
fail shorted.
Except that I was referring to arc lamps.
Also, there is no 'virtually' about it. Short of an impact that jams
both input leads together, an incandescent lamp can NEVER "fail" shorted.
In fact, a good way to 'fix' one is with a swift thud while under power.
If it hits the lead, it will re-weld itself back on, and that usually
(certainly) will not last as long as a properly cinched filament. It
will usually get you a few more hours out of the bulb, but I have seen
them go on for years after a re-attachment.
It has nothing to do with design. The ONLY failure mode IS an open
filament, and that is the only place such a bulb ever fails short of the
encapsulation being breached. That is just the physics of it by default.
You're nuts.
A light bulb is, by default, a very low resistance device. Any shorting
of its internals or the device which it is mounted in would trip the
branch circuit protection. If not, the mount is suspect of total
non-compliance.
The bulb is specifically designed to couple as little heat as possible
to the base it sits in. That is why you never see a dense epoxy holding
the base on the bulb. It is always "airy" baked material of very low
density and therefore low thermal conductivity.
IF the filament feeder leads were to be shorted (broken bulb under
power)(happens a lot with old style garage shop lights), they would NOT
heat the base, the short would cause a breaker to trip immediately.