Power supply help for air purifier

[diode]

The fan speed and filter reset solder joints look like that, not sure if that is ok. How do I check for cracked solder joints? Magnifying glass? Both units just shut off while being used and never would turn back on or be responsive to pressing buttons. The units weren't used very long, maybe a year or so.

 

[Bluejets]

Might be a good move to check your photos before uploading.
One in #20 looks like the moon is in an eclipse..........

 

[Martaine2005]

looks like the moon is in an eclipse..........

I think it's a torch / flash light.
Yes, use a magnifying glass to check the solder joints. Some look like they've never seen solder.
Might be a good idea to run your soldering iron over the board. That process alone has fixed more faulty PCBs than actual failed components.

What's on the inside of the plastic housing that pushes the coiled switch contacts? A common foil backing?

Martin

 

[Bluejets]

I'd tend to get that grey x2 cap checked for value.
I've seen many timers, daylight switches etc. etc. use that same non-isolated voltage drop arrangement where the cap has gone out of value.

 

[diode]

I think it's a torch / flash light.
Yes, use a magnifying glass to check the solder joints. Some look like they've never seen solder.
Might be a good idea to run your soldering iron over the board. That process alone has fixed more faulty PCBs than actual failed components.

What's on the inside of the plastic housing that pushes the coiled switch contacts? A common foil backing?

Martin

The inside of the plastic housing where contacts go appears to be the same plastic the housing is made out of.

 

[73's de Edd]

Nowhere on that board do I see any ion producing voltage level "creators" with the components being seen.
Is there more to be seen, possibly hidden down inside the case elsewhere, like a HV transformer and its associative needle point electrodes / ion emitters.
Expecting a 2 or 3 connector cable / plug going to it from this board.
On this board shown, its being mostly its control and bells and whistles . .eg . . .LEDS + push buttons., maybe one small sized Sonalert alarm.
There is one logical T1-T2-G terminal marked Triac, which might be that HV transformers driver.
Just now re read all and caught . . . .
I have power going out of the yellow red and green wires to the fan and ionizer.
Then I might expect the yellow wire to be the ionizer feed.
So do the ionizer and fan work ?

 

[diode]

Nowhere on that board do I see any ion producing voltage level "creators" with the components being seen.
Is there more to be seen, possibly hidden down inside the case elsewhere, like a HV transformer and its associative needle point electrodes / ion emitters.
Expecting a 2 or 3 connector cable / plug going to it from this board.
On this board shown, its being mostly its control and bells and whistles . .eg . . .LEDS + push buttons., maybe one small sized Sonalert alarm.
There is one logical T1-T2-G terminal marked Triac, which might be that HV transformers driver.
Just now re read all and caught . . . .
I have power going out of the yellow red and green wires to the fan and ionizer.
Then I might expect the yellow wire to be the ionizer feed.
So do the ionizer and fan work ?

The unit is completely unresponsive like as if not plugged in. The ion function never worked. There is a relay looking device in the case, I will post photo when I get home from work.

 

[diode]

The other smaller unit that failed with the same symptoms, I have 2 of. I will try to take both apart next week to swap parts but I dont like having too many things taken apart at once. I have a hunch the same part failed on the air95 and the smaller airvantage.

 

[Bluejets]

Swapping parts between two units with the same symptoms to me at least, seems crazy to say the least.

 

[diode]

 

[diode]

The red and black connector goes to the ionizer control box, then one red wire to the ionizer element. The 2 black wire connector goes to the power cord. The multicolored 4 way connector goes to the fan motor along with the 2 white wires from the box with 250v written on it. The unit does not power up whatsoever (no leds) so not really sure where to diagnose that. The ionizer function never worked since it was purchased reconditioned at a department store.

 

[diode]

 

[diode]