PCB toner transfer paper in Aus? ditto laminators?

[[email protected]]

I've finally gotten around to DIY PCB etching, so far using the laser
printer toner transfer method (using a Brother HL-2040, works well
other than stinking something awful when paper jams, damned cheap: $98
@ BigW, replacement toner cartridges are ~$60 (recycled) - $80 (new
retail) for supposedly 2.5k pages).

I tried a few different paper types: plain paper, some HP inkjet photo
paper I've had for ages (forget the name, it was a runout at the local
office store), and I'm currently using paper from one of my wife's
glossy mags which easily works the best of these. The printer has a
"thin paper" setting you have to use to avoid jams with this paper.
The photo paper "shrank" and crumpled as it hit the fuser and jammed,
as did the glossy mag's back cover (though it looked very arty).

The only problem with the mag paper is it's pretty easy to tear when
ironing - can anyone recommend an effective photo paper?

On a related note has anyone tried a laminator? If so, and it's
available in Aus, which one?

Thanks in advance,
Ben

 

[James]

I've finally gotten around to DIY PCB etching, so far using the laser
printer toner transfer method (using a Brother HL-2040, works well
other than stinking something awful when paper jams, damned cheap: $98
@ BigW, replacement toner cartridges are ~$60 (recycled) - $80 (new
retail) for supposedly 2.5k pages).

I tried a few different paper types: plain paper, some HP inkjet photo
paper I've had for ages (forget the name, it was a runout at the local
office store), and I'm currently using paper from one of my wife's
glossy mags which easily works the best of these. The printer has a
"thin paper" setting you have to use to avoid jams with this paper.
The photo paper "shrank" and crumpled as it hit the fuser and jammed,
as did the glossy mag's back cover (though it looked very arty).

The only problem with the mag paper is it's pretty easy to tear when
ironing - can anyone recommend an effective photo paper?

On a related note has anyone tried a laminator? If so, and it's
available in Aus, which one?

Thanks in advance,
Ben

If you aren't doing heaps you could try the Press'n'Peel film from Jaycar.
It's bloody expensive but works very well when done right. At ~$30 for 5 LT
sized sheets you don't want to be using a sheet for one small PCB. When you
iron it onto the PCB it leaves a film sort of glued onto the copper by the
toner. The trick is to keep the iron on it even after you think its done .
I've used it down to .02" tracks and imagine .01" should be easily
acheivable.

As for using a laminator, you'd have to use a good one. Most of the cheapies
probably wouldn't melt the toner, you'd need full heat and a very slow feed
speed to heat the board properly.

James

 

[[email protected]]

I've finally gotten around to DIY PCB etching, so far using the laser
printer toner transfer method (using a Brother HL-2040, works well
other than stinking something awful when paper jams, damned cheap: $98
@ BigW, replacement toner cartridges are ~$60 (recycled) - $80 (new
retail) for supposedly 2.5k pages).

I tried a few different paper types: plain paper, some HP inkjet photo
paper I've had for ages (forget the name, it was a runout at the local
office store), and I'm currently using paper from one of my wife's
glossy mags which easily works the best of these. The printer has a
"thin paper" setting you have to use to avoid jams with this paper.
The photo paper "shrank" and crumpled as it hit the fuser and jammed,
as did the glossy mag's back cover (though it looked very arty).

The only problem with the mag paper is it's pretty easy to tear when
ironing - can anyone recommend an effective photo paper?

On a related note has anyone tried a laminator? If so, and it's
available in Aus, which one?

Thanks in advance,
Ben

Hi Ben,
I saw a recommendation a little while ago for a particular
paper which I now use with quite good results. It doesn't stick in the
laser printers I have tried.
It is from Officeworks and is called Photopaper 150gsm A4 Matte Finish
item code OWPMMW. Print on the shiny plasticy side.
I use a piece of plain paper on top of it when I iron to stop the iron
sticking to it.
Turn the iron up full, and iron over it evenly for two minutes.
It seems best to let it cool fully before peeling off. Make sure you
clean your copper with coarse steel wool or emery paper to improve the
adhesion. I also use it to print a black silk screen on the top side.
I etch with dilute Hydrochloric acid with a few drops of strong
Hydrogen peroxide...cleaner and cheaper than FeCl2 and persulphate.

regards
Russell

 

[Trespasser]

Laser print artwork onto tracing paper - no, not overhead film. Place toner
side down onto pre-sensitised pcb. Use sunlight to expose it if you're a
real cheapo. Otherwise get a UV fluoro. Develop with drain cleaner. Etch in
real ferric chloride if you can get it. 100% professional results.

Any other method and you're wasting both time and MONEY.

 

[Fonz]

Last week some time I saw a mob selling Press-N-Peel for about $15-00 per
pack, somewhere on either internet or EBAY. I'll see if I can find them and
send a link. I've used the stuff and love it.
Rob.

 

[Fonz]

Found one link on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue_W0QQitemZ170158174352QQihZ007QQcategoryZ22669QQcmdZViewItem

It's from the US at $2 per page ($2.25au), which is cheaper than $6-00 per
page at Jaycar. Don't know about shipping prices though. There are others
locally, but I'll keep looking.
Rob

 

[James]

Found one link on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Press-n-Peel-Blue_W0QQitemZ170158174352QQihZ007QQcategoryZ22669QQcmdZViewItem

It's from the US at $2 per page ($2.25au), which is cheaper than $6-00 per
page at Jaycar. Don't know about shipping prices though. There are
others locally, but I'll keep looking.
Rob

Thanks....that does seem pretty cheap. Do you know if the seller regularly
sells it on Ebay or a one off? I don't know that I'd want to take the chance
of it turning up and being creased badly due to inadequate packaging though.
Large boards (150x150mm +)seem difficult to get right if you have even a
slight crease in the film, due to bubbles forming, and require a great deal
of patience and luck to iron flat.

James

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've considered the P&P before, but at
the local prices dismissed it pretty quickly. At $US2 a sheet, might
give it a go sometime just to compare (postage will probably double
the cost, but it's still better than local prices...)

On Oct 6, 11:06 pm, [email protected] wrote:
....

It is from Officeworks and is called Photopaper 150gsm A4 Matte Finish
item code OWPMMW.

....

I couldn't find 'OWPMMW' at my local officeworks, the only non-water-
resistant paper they had was "100gsm Matte Photo Quality Paper" (100
sheets for $18) (product AUOW410?). It works well, takes a little
longer to soak but conversely is resilient to enthusiastic ironing. It
doesn't have a "plasticy" surface and runs through the HL-2040 printer
no troubles.

Ben

 

[Poxy]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've considered the P&P before, but at
the local prices dismissed it pretty quickly. At $US2 a sheet, might
give it a go sometime just to compare (postage will probably double
the cost, but it's still better than local prices...)

Do you know the trick to save usage of P&P?

In case you don't, you first print your board on ordinary paper, then cut
out where the board is and place a piece of P&P the same size in the hole
and put a single piece of paper correction tape on the back across the top
to hold it in place. Then you run it through the laser.

 

[Fonz]

Try this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Printed-Circ...51845538QQihZ011QQcategoryZ4660QQcmdZViewItem

Rob