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Sir Jim Hood . . . . . . .
Heeeeeee's baaaaaack . . . . .
Now when I step up from that . . .
small . . . display of a laptop to my BIG 42 inches of display.
I can now see that I was reading the G as an O . . . .but since the switch is performing two SEPARATE switching actions, the right one is as I described.
The left switch opening that circuit to the alternator just might be related to the isolating of the battery when the machine is turned off, since we
can't see WHAT the circuitry inside that item 2 " rectifier " is configured as, just the considration that there might be battery-alternator-ground leakage / drain.
And I imagine that ' proprietary' information aspect precluded any available schematic of that rectifier unit . . .you are just 'posed to buy a NEW one.
" regulated with a capacitor "
Even HIGH capacitance utilization can store its energy but a fraction of time, if having simultaneous power drain from it, at the best it can only smooth out
voltage variations between load demands.
" just use a single wave rectifier "
That would be vewy-vewy inefficient . . .considering the other AC nodes polarity presence . . . and it ALSO having multiple windings to boot.
After getting your page magged up to see it better:
Looking back at the alternator connections, it also looks like the alternator has an additional internal "afterburner" winding on it , with Red and Blue
wire connections to winding, that gets rectified inside of your electronic ignition module to power it.
With that said, I'm looking for the triggering of the electronic ignition with that GREEN wire being the sole one.
Sooooo you should have caught that on my first reply, but with it shown OUTSIDE of the housing, might it be a sense coil that catches the passing
of one spinning magnet inside that triggers your ignition module each crank rotation for firing that one lunged monster.
Matter of fact, in the evolution of the Harley alternators with the new ones using spinning "super power" magnets, seems like the forerunners were
using curved / molded ceramic magnets instead. You will know all of this, and can update / fill me in .
Back to the rectifier assembly only . . . .referring to the schema below:
If you have to make up a rectifier unit from scratch consider some of these Full Wave Rectifier blocks in metal cases, used for further heat sinking contact area.
If you trace the + battery connection to the pair of blocks you will see ONLY a diode cathode being encountered, which means NO flow from the battery to the alternator windings.
This is a strictly one way power flow . . .from the alternator into the battery.
We have no idea on the old rectifier construction, without dissection and reverse engineering evaluation, but they seemed to want to disconnect from the alternator.
It you have a bad old rectifier unit needing replacement . . . you might just try this possibility out . . . . they offer these FWB blocks voltage rated on up to 1000 volts . . . God forbid . . . .
and you pick their current rating at . .5-10-25-50 amps ?
Techno referencing:
73's de Edd
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