Fine. May I make a few suggestions then?
1- Ring terminals would provide more security than spade terminals.
Especially, if the box is going to be vibrating all over the roadways.
2 - Soldering the crimp terminals is another good idea. I can't tell
if you've done that from the images or not. It does not appear so.
3 - The barrier strip can probably be double-nutted, (or nylon captive
nut) so it won't swing in the breeze should one side vibrate loose.
At least you could dab it with Lock-tite.
4 - I can't quite read the NEMA nameplate, but with this many holes in
it, that rating is completely irrelevant anyway. Still, the inside
appears pretty rusty. Perhaps it was out of service for a long
time.? Or maybe it's not as airtight as you image?. (Think rust,
oxidation, poor conductivity, ice pooling, etc...)
5 - I see you have cord protection, but no strain relief.
Interesting choice.
Now, let's get to the electroncis:
6 - Many automobiles use a system that causes a more rapid flashing if
one of the filaments burns out. Do you plan on implementing such a
system with the LED's or some other POSITIVE indication of a
malfunction?
7 - The LED soldering job leaves a little to be desired (if the view
is the final version, that is..). You have simply lapped the resistor
and LED leads side-by-side and soldered them. This should be a FIRM
mechanical connection first, THEN a solid soldering job. (Again,
think vibration!!.)
8 - The resistors appear to be simple carbon film resistors. Probably
OK, but for another penny you could get flameproof resistors. (Always
a nice consideration around fuel.)
9 - I cannot see the rating on the 110V cable. It "looks" like
standard "SO-type" cord, which of course is an indoor cable and not
rated for outdoor or UV exposures. Of course, that's an NEC rating,
not DOT, or whatever Standard might be applicable here(?).
10 - Will the transformer be fused, and will the 110V ground connect
to the vehicle's 12V ground? In other words, is the isolation of these
two systems totally dependent on the HiPot testing of whatever
transformer you are using, and do you know what that rating actually
is? I don't even want to think about the condition of a hot chasis
and a weak ground, or a loop if the trailer happens to touch the
building structure while charging under fault conditions. Or, if the
trailer is somehow grounded to earth and a fault doesn't clear on the
charging circuit branch breaker. (Or, if the neutral to the building
lifts, etc...)
11 - Speaking of DOT, who cares if the bulbs & fixtures are DOT
rated? Everyone here knows the DOT has never laid eyes on this
thing..., so it's totally unfair to intimate their seal of approval.
At least on a systems-level.
12 - The idea of dual use (i.e., electronics & glove box / storage) is
a novel idea. Ideally, this would have separate access doors or
panels, etc... At the very least, there should be a non-conductive
cover (and appropriate warning signage) on all exposed 110V. As well
as a rigid divider of some sort between the compartments. Possibly
something fire rated, depending on what you might want to store inside
this thing. Which brings up another issue:
13 - Have you considered the possibility of liquids being stored and
what might happen if they leak on the unprotected barrier strip
terminal block? Like a lead-acid battery or...[use imagination]
Anyway, I think you get the point.
I completely agree that wiring trailer lights is trivial.
And probably well within the skill set of everyone here.
My point is:
I've seen enough injury accidents, fatalities and "near-misses" to
CONVINCE me that things are NEVER as trivial as they first seem to
be. And further, that when one of these "gotcha's" does bite you in
the _ _ _, you can always go back and figure out what you could have
done differently to better protect life and property.
I've said my peace. You can agree or disagree.
And I'm truly not looking for royalties on any of my above
suggestions! (Feel free to incorporate!.)
Oh, one more thing.
When you do mount the transformer, you might want to use a shock-
absorbing mount (rubber bumbers, pads, etc...) Those things are
pretty dense. You wouldn't want it flying around inside the cabinet
when you hit a pothole (or a deer, elk moose, etc...)
Oh, and of course, the forces involved in an accident are tremendous.
So the obligatory statement about making certain it's affixed
permanently....
Sorry. One more thing. You mentioned there would be a battery in the
trailer box too.
If this is a standard lead-acid battery, the charging space needs to
be ventillated.
(Was this going in the cabinet too?) And of course, the charge would
need to be regulated somehow to prevent overcharging, loss of
electrolyte, release of explosive gases, etc... But I'm sure you knew
all that.
Sorry. One more: What if you have to jump start the truck with the
trailer connected?
Is this a problem? (From a harness current-carrying point of view.)
Good luck with the project!!
-mpm
