Robert L. Bass said:
From the PC1555 installation manual wiring diagram on page ii: "Bell / Siren
700 mA Maximum" They actually printed it in full caps to emphasize the
point.
So what's your point?? Where did I "recommend" the client max out the
available current through the bell outputs?? I simply stated that
connecting the MVA-1000 to the bell outputs shouldn't be a problem for the
panel to handle. Even a current draw of 2.4 amps is a full 600 mA less than
the "max allowable". And *where* in the OP's question did he include
strobes?? You're such a weasle, Bass. You twist and turn faster than a
Michael Jackson used to... I'll bet you send each other Christmas cards
too...
You read it in my FAQ *after* I told you about it.
No... I know it from experience and it's available for anyone to read it in
the *INSTALLATION MANUAL* for the PC-1555, and PC-1575 (as well as the older
panels in the DSC line-up).
By overloading the bell output you are disabling it. THINK!!!
You stated it would disable the entire panel. This is *not* true. Besides,
we're not talking about maxing out the available current throught the bell
output, Robert. No matter how you slice it you're still trying to cover up
the fact that you *missed* reading that in the manual (or your FAQ, which is
even more difficult to comprehend).
"Bell Output Terminals - BELL+ and BELL-"
"These terminals provide up to 700 mA of continuous current at 12 VDC for
powering bells, sirens, strobes or other warning type equipment. Connect the
positive side of any alarm warning device to BELL+, the negative side to
BELL-. Please note that the Bell output is protected: if too much current is
drawn from these terminals (such as a wiring short), the Bell PTC will open.
Three amps can be drawn for short periods only..."
Bravo... You got it, Mr. Samson... Now take a deep breath and let go of
the pillar...
"... For UL installations, when a bell or siren is used for fire signaling
with a pulsed cadence, it must be connected between the AUX+ and BELL-
terminals... A fire bell or siren used for this application must be UL
Listed and have a current consumption of 400mA or less (e.g. Wheelock
MT-12/24-R)."
Excuse me?? Where did the OP mention he was doing a "UL installation"?? Do
you even know if he's qualified to?? Have you checked his credentials??
It will shut down the bell / siren output. That effectively disables the
alarm.
Nope!! Sorry... The keypad sounders will still be available... not to
mention the panel will still communicate both the alarm and "fuse" trouble
to the CS. Again... I'm *NOT* "recommending" utilizing the full available
output current from the system. I'm simply stating that you can hook up the
MVA-1000 to the bell terminals with *no problem* as long as you don't exceed
the rated "3 amps for a short period"...
Oh., really? Where did you think the power for the bell terminals comes
from?
The battery, Robert... The battery... Talk to DSC tech support... They'll
set you straight... You'll have to call in with your buddy's ID though...
I understand they won't give *you* any info...
You're changing your tune, Frank. First you advised unsuspecting readers to
connect a 3 Amp load to a 700 mA output.
Never said that. I did state that you could hook up a siren/bell that would
draw up to 3 amps for a short period. My point (which you've still managed
to miss) is that the MVA 1000 can be driven directly from the bell outputs
of the DSC 1555 or 1575 panels (or any of the older panels for that matter
as well).
Now you're slipping down to a 2
Amp load. The old Olson Twist is starting again. Chubby Checkers would
turn over in his grave.
Sorry, Robert... I ain't the one "twisting" here...
... other than the system giving NO AUDIBLE at all as soon as the PTC opens.
:^)
Which wouldn't happen in the case in question (the OP's MVA-1000).
From your original recommendation: "The DSC PC1555 is perfectly capable of
driving up to 3.0 Amps through the siren output for a short period as long
as the back up battery is attached."
That wasn't a "recommendation" by any stretch of the imagination, Robert...
It was a statement of fact. You've gotta start reading better than you
do...
You mislead people by holding yourself
forth as an expert here.
Excuse me?? Where have I done that, Mr. "Frequently Wrong Answers"??
Aren't you the one posting FAQ messages in a professional forum (in
violation of the group's FAQ)?? Aren't you the one who holds himself out to
be the "expert" on all things related to aviation and security??
That makes anything you claim can be done without
hazard a recommendation.
Really?? Only in your own sick mind, Robert..
I've been in the trade for going on 20 years now... and I'm still
learning... That's the challenge of working in this industry. You run into
something "new" every day. The bell output specs for the DSC products have
been out for years. If you ever took part in one of their panel seminars
you would have known about it (perhaps even had it demonstrated like they
did here in Vancouver).
You're not even an
installer and never have been.
You're so full of "schitt" it's a wonder you can even talk without spewing
it it all over the room...
You post this sort of crap out of personal
animosity, completely ignoring the fact that in so doing you mislead readers
into doing things that can and will disable their protection when they need
it.
You post *this* kind of crap (personal attacks) for exactly those reasons.
You're an uninsured, unbonded, unlicensed, parts pusher with a felony
conviction who barely managed to avoid a manslaughter charge in a tragic
accident caused when you fell asleep at the wheel. Your one constant
"whine" when we talked on the phone was that I should list your site on mine
(like you managed to talk Mike into)....
I simply pointed out that you recommended connecting a siren driver directly
to the battery terminals *without a fuse* which should *NEVER* be done (by
either the professional you say you are or someone offering a solution to
the OP's question). You're one sick puppy Bass... Still trying to "cover
your sorry ass" by attacking me... What a jerk!!!
Discredit you? You're the one who started the crap. I gave the OP a proper
answer and you respondede with a flame. I don't need to discredit you.
You do that all by yourself.
Bwahahahahahahahaha! You told the OP to connect the driver directly to the
battery leads. What a blatantly irresponsible reply (not to mention *bad
advice*) that was. Now you're trying to "cover up" by saying I
"recommended" you can draw up to three amps from the bell outputs. What a
lying piece of "schitt" you are!!
Most of the reactions I've seen indicate otherwise.
Where?? In this group??
See, there's the difference, Olson. I tried it and the system opened the
breaker. No siren. No bell. Nothing. Other than the keypads there was no
sound at all. If you ever actually installed any of this stuff you'd have
the opportunity to find out.
Yeah... like you have a DSC 1555 sitting right there... What a maroon!!
If you draw too much current through the bell circuit,
the "self-restoring circuit breaker" will only interrupt
that particular circuit, not "power down the whole
system"...
Disabling the siren... [sigh]
*YOU* stated it would "power down the whole system"... The forgoing was a
direct quote... You should take the time to read your own responses before
opening your fat yap to criticize me.
The problem is you don't uinderstand that a disabled bell output shuts down
the siren. You're recommending that a device be conne3cted to the bell
output which will make the bell output stop working.
The MVA 1000 will *NOT* shut down the bell output. The OLDER DSC boards had
a five amp fuse on the siren circuit, Robert. (DSC PC-2550, 3000, 1500,
2000, 2500). It was never "recommended" that you load it up to the max, but
because of the way DSC *designed* the bell circuits, they are able to draw
power straight from the battery (not the aux power supply).
system
That depends on how fast the overload opens the breaker. The MVA-1000 siren
driver draws 2.3 Amps with two 8-Ohm speakers in parallel. If the gentleman
also runs a couple of strobes he's approaching 3.0 Amps.
Which the panel is perfectly capable of supporting for a short time. It
says so right in the manual, Robert. Besides, the OP didn't mention that
any other *OUTPUT* devices were being contemplated in this instance.
So it's OK to wreck the siren hookup because the keypads will still beep?
Where have I said that, you jerk!?!? I simply stated that *in your
scenario* the whole system wouldn't shut down if the bell output was
exceeded (which you stated clearly it would). What if the outputs got
shorted (like could happen if an external siren was vandalized by a burglar
before he got in the house)?? The protection afforded by the system would
still allow the keypad sounders to function *and* the system to communicate
alarms/troubles to the CS.
Oh, so now you *are* recommending. A few lines back you tried to dodge
that.
How about you post the entire sentence, bAsswipe??
The panel doesn't have any "available 3 amps." It has a 1.5 Amp power
supply. Anyone in his right mind would never do what you recommend.
Heh, heh, heh... Still having problems reading the manual, Robert??
Sure. I have plenty of times in the past. But in the present case you are
wrong. I don't recall you ever admitting an error though.
You've had me "plonked" for so long, how would you know??
See. That's an admission of error. I forgot to include that in my original
post. I'm glad you pointed it out. Now, when are you going to admit that
it's a bad idea to connect a load four times the rated output?
Too late, Robbie... It seems to me that your "omission" could have resulted
in serious personal injury to the OP, not to mention anyone else stupid
enough to follow your advice. And what would you "rate" the output, when
the manual states clearly that you *can* draw up to three amps for short
periods. Note to newbies: The "period" available depends on the state of
the system's battery. If it's an older 12V4AH, you may not have very long,
if it's a newer 12V7AH, then I'm confident you can run the MVA-1000 for the
full four minutes that's usually programmed before bell cut-off.
One of the reasons I usually refer people to my FAQ is that the discussions
there tend to be more thorough.
What "discussions"?? You don't even answer your emails. You've had
numerous complaints filed with the Clearwater Better Business Bureau. One
of the dumbest things I've seen you post is the "explanation" where you
stated that the Bureau told you to sell goods to a customer that you didn't
want to have anything to do with or get hit with a bad report... *That* was
not only laughable, it was a blatant example of the sick, twisted,
conniving, *FRAUD* you are.
I often go over those three or four times,
making additions and corrections before I post them to my web server.
The reason for that is that you don't read very well... And even so, your
"FAQ's" are still fraught with errors.
Sometimes I get an idea from something someone else has done and add it to
the pages (with attribution if I know who the person is).
Oh?? Where's the "attribution" to Jim (Alarminex) for the Anderson
windows?? Even if you *don't* use his exact words, he did provide you with
the "inspiration" for the FAQ. I've written several myself and given you
credit for at least one...
http://www.yoursecuritysource.com/wiringwallfaq.htm
Mostly I discuss
things I learned over the 26 years I've been in the trade.
Yeah... heard that before... Funny how you can be "26 years in the trade"
when you haven't touched the tools for going on seven of them, were
*unlicensed* in CT for nine years while you "ran your small central station
alarm company"... No wonder you can't get licensed in Florida. They
wouldn't let you write the challenge exam with *NO* previous certifiable
experience. The criminal record doesn't help either, does it? And I'll
just bet the BBB report from Clearwater will do a lot toward convincing
anyone on the board that you're "honest and trustworthy" and of "good
character".
http://www.clearwater.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bid=41001663
