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N_Cook
Any tips for single ended signal injection and tracing for high resolution
tracing , floppy/HD head as searchcoil ?
tracing , floppy/HD head as searchcoil ?
N_Cook said:Any tips for single ended signal injection and tracing for high resolution
tracing , floppy/HD head as searchcoil ?
I would second that. I doubt the time and effort spent in attemptng
this is time and effort well spent. You'd be better off going for a
nice walk in the countryside instead, after telling your customer
this is not a viable repair. Which you or he wll end up doing
anyway.
You might be lucky and only power and ground are in the inner layers alongDavid Nebenzahl said:I third that. Much as I commend the spirit of trying to fix everything
yourself that is possible, some things just aren't made to be fixed.
Multilayer circuit boards seem to be one of those things.
Any tips for single ended signal injection and tracing for high resolution
tracing , floppy/HD head as searchcoil ?
You have my sympathies. After replacing $100 worth of high powerArfa Daily said:Yep. Just yesterday I rejected a big ol' Pioneer amp with every output
transistor short on both channels, and most of the emitter Rs open. The
mackled-up box that it came in from the customer, suggested that they might
have obtained it from uPay or some such. With a sigh, I put its covers back
on, and explained to the shop which took it in, that it was going to be more
trouble than it was worth. They told me that they 'knew' this was going to
be the case, but took it in anyway ...
I then went out for that walk in the country that Gareth suggested ...
A few years back, I would have fixed it come what may. Now, it seems that my
time is more importantly used on jobs that actually make me some money.
Arfa
It's a thought Franc, but you would need either a damned strong signal
source (see my earlier thoughts about crosstalk in prallel track bunches),
or a very high gain and very low noise amp on the end of the video head. I
say this because from what I've seen of video heads over the years, they
have very few wire turns on them, relying for their output on the fact that
they are rotating at very high speed relative to the tape, and in extremely
tight physical contact with it.
Wouldn't it be easier in the end, to just use your DMM on its lowest ohms
range with a continuity beeper, to hook onto one end of a track where you do
know that it finds its way to the top or bottom surface, then go hunting for
the next place where it appears by initially listening for the beep, and
then checking for the near-zero ohms reading that you will be getting, if
you have found a direct connection ?
Either way, a very tedious process, and definitely not commercially viable
unless, as someone else commented, it is an expensive board for which there
is no service info available, and that someone wants to contract you to mend
a large number of.
Arfa
It has been my experience with consumer equipment, that if you can fix it,
the customer will either be poor and can't afford it, or will be genuinely
disappointed because they really wanted the newest, latest gimmick. If you
fix it, they will never return to claim it. Or in one case, brought the
whole family over and while I was distracted, one snuck out with TV and
paperwork and all bolted on queue without paying.
Always leave the unit disassembled or at least with the back off with wiring
and circuits exposed and settle the invoice before putting it back together.
Thieves don't want to get electrocuted.
Arfa said:Wouldn't it be easier in the end, to just use your DMM on its lowest ohms
range with a continuity beeper, to hook onto one end of a track where you do
know that it finds its way to the top or bottom surface, then go hunting for
the next place where it appears by initially listening for the beep, and
then checking for the near-zero ohms reading that you will be getting, if
you have found a direct connection ?
N_Cook said:It was worth an enquiry. Perhaps someone had hit on a wondrous new
technique, i was not aware of.