Marine Stereo Set-up (Amp/Sub/Etc)

[Matt]

I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting a
marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers.

Question:

I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on mounting, as
far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment that really doesn't
get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the amp need alot of constant
airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in an enclosure and non-powered.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[Larry]

I have a 21' bowrider and plan on redoing the stereo system. Getting
a marine Amp, Subwoofer, Headunit, 4 speakers.

Question:

I plan on getting a 6 channel AMP anyone have any experience on
mounting, as far as where? I was going to put it in a compartment
that really doesn't get airflow but is somewhat ventalated, does the
amp need alot of constant airflow? The subwoofer is going to be in
an enclosure and non-powered.

Any help is appreciated.

There is no such thing as a "marine stereo". Putting a white face on a
black faced car stereo that's wide open to the water doesn't wash, so to
speak...pun intended. None of these car radios sold at marine stores is
waterproof, so treat it like you would any ol car stereo and mount it
way up inside the boat so it never gets wet unless the boat sinks. Even
then you'll be hard pressed to keep it from getting wet. In a 21' bow
rider, your best bet is inside any cabinetry the boat has on it.
Putting it into a hole in the dash hanging out the back of the plastic
over your knees in the open just hastens its failure....as soon as the
boat gets splashed by a wake...when your feet get wet. Even with that
"cover" on the front of it, the back is still wide open.

ALL speakers must be PLASTIC coned....no paper at all. You must keep
the back of the speakers DRY or it won't matter. Plastic speakers
labeled "marine", other than tripling their price, only let you splash
the front of them. If any of them have any METAL grillework, don't buy
it...plastic doesn't rust.

My advise....Get a nice PORTABLE stereo you can run off 12VDC plugged
into the boat battery or a small AC inverter. One of those inverters
built into the back of a cigarette lighter plug is plenty to power their
AC cord. No mounting necessary and you can carry the radio over to the
beach blanket or campsite on that little island. Put the stereo in a
trashbag to keep all the water off it...It'll even run that way. Make
sure the portable has no METAL cabinet parts...they're all cheap steel
that will rust awful. My boat radio is one of the windup radios that
also has a solar cell to run it in the sun....no connections, no
batteries and it will run about an hour on a windup after the sun sets.
It'll run continuously on the beach all day for nothing.

 

[[email protected]]

There is no such thing as a "marine stereo". Putting a white face on a
black faced car stereo that's wide open to the water doesn't wash, so to
speak...pun intended. None of these car radios sold at marine stores is
waterproof, so treat it like you would any ol car stereo and mount it
way up inside the boat so it never gets wet unless the boat sinks. Even
then you'll be hard pressed to keep it from getting wet.

Well, I agree that some stereos labeled "marine" are not worthy of the
name, but there are those that DO deserve the name. Being "Marine"
doesn't have to mean something is submersible. It means that it is
designed and constructed to hold up in a marine environment. That
means things like careful choice of materials for mechanical parts,
and conformal coatings for circuit boards.

In the case of electronics, it doesn't mean water tight or water
proof. Just a resistance to corrosion in a humid environment.

For that matter, I've seen "marine" speakers that are totally
waterproof, but are open backed. That means that if you get pooped, or
knocked down, you may have some instant 6 inch diameter holes in your
cockpit leading into your boats interior. Not good.

 

[Matt]

Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if
it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a
boat would be difficult..

Thanks!

 

[Matt]

10-4, I was looking at a PYLE 6CH Marine amp. I know they are not top of
the line, but i have learned from past audio equipment even the best
'marine' equipment doesn't do well in a 'marine' enviorment...

Definately don't want the hot chicks getting burnt, i plan on mounting it in
a comparment infront of the drivers seat, it's enclosed and virtually
impossible for someone to get burnt...

Thanks for the info!!!

Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is
as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure
if
it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a
boat would be difficult..

No, they don't need constant airflow. However, the more restricted the
area you mount it, the more you should consider the quality of the
amp. Alpine has compact stackable marine amps. Pricey, but worth a
look. I've used Alpine equipment for years and have never had a
complaint. They might even have minimum clearance specs.

Remember too that unless it has some kind of decent housing, it's
likely to get hot. Even while idling. Don't want kids or hot chicks
accidentally burning themselves on it.

-phish

 

[GregS]

Yes but what about the moutning / location of the AMP, i want to keep is as
dry as possible, along with all my other stereo equipment, but am unsure if
it needs 'Air' to breath, a location the has constant airflow, whichi n a
boat would be difficult..

Thanks!

Why do you need 6 channels ?
Surely needs air to breath. You must use a fan in an enclosed area
with entry air points. Some amps allready have fans. My old
Pioneer amp had two fans that went along with the music.
If heat is a real concern, a full switching amp is the best
way to go.

PLYE oh the good old days. Pyrimid watts or Pyle watts they call them.

I remember when Pyle was a decent American manufacturer of speakers.

There is something to be said for throwaway electronics in saltwater marine
installations. Typical "Marine" equipment is usually cheap with some kind of O rings
somewhere.


greg

 

[Matt]

Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the
sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too...

I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get
a powered sub...

What do you suggest?

 

[GregS]

Well i really would like a 5 channel, 4 for the speakers and mono for the
sub... Pyle only has a 6 channel so that will work too...

I didn't want to have a second amp just for the sub, and didn't want to get
a powered sub...

What do you suggest?

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg

 

[Matt]

So you recommend something like this PLMRA420
(http://www.pyleaudio.com/manuals/PLMRA220-420.pdf) but would I be able to
setup the four speakers on the two preamps, and all i would lose is the
ability to fade front to back correct? then bridge the other for the sub????
would that work? ? ?

Thanx.

 

[Matt]

Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5
infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the
Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with
that) all are 4ohms.

 

[Larry]

[email protected] (GregS) wrote in @usenet01.srv.cis.pitt.edu:

I would probably use a 4 channel amp thats convertable to 3 channel.
One for the sub and a stereo output for two sets of 4 ohm speakers.
The amp must be able to drive 2 ohms, else use 8 ohm speakers.
Driving low ohms produces more heat, unfortunately.

greg

I'm just an observer in this thread, but can I ask what kind of CHARGING
and BATTERY system this boat has to power all this load?

The average outboard motor charges tops at about 10-12
amps....TOTAL......at full throttle.......

 

[Matt]

I will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of the
audio equipment...

 

[Larry]

will be adding a second battery and a switch prior to installation of
the
audio equipment...

That's great for the beach. What's the CHARGING capacity to supply power
to it? Big amps turned up loud have 20, 30, 50, 60, 75, 100A fuses.
They're not fused that heavy to impress buyers.

And, please make SURE the wiring from battery to the amps is more than
ample to blow the fuses so we don't read about "burning boat" and "ensuing
fire". It's very easy to melt light wiring before the big fuses melt.

 

[GregS]

Follow-up, I was looking to match that amp up with, my current 4 6.5
infinity kappas, then either the Pyle 8" non-amplified sub enclosure or the
Bazooka 8" sub enclosure (if the 10" bazooka will fit, maybe i'll go with
that) all are 4ohms.

They don't give much specs but that should work. Funny it says waterproof and has holes !!

It didn't say where it would drive 2 ohms in non bridged mode. I huess you don't get much specs
for such low price.

I don't know if that amp has low/high filters but you need that.
Here is one that does.....
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-096

greg