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Low Battery- Ademco 5808 rf Smokes

  • Thread starter Samuel Rutherford
  • Start date
S

Samuel Rutherford

I get chronic Low-Bat messages from one of smokes as mentioned above.
I clear it (yeah, I know the sequence).

I've also shorted the contacts at the detector for 30 seconds.

After a few days.....I get the Low-Bat message again.

Yes, the batteries are new and fresh.


Any ideas what I can do to fix this pain?
 
F

Frank Olson

Samuel said:
I get chronic Low-Bat messages from one of smokes as mentioned above.
I clear it (yeah, I know the sequence).

I've also shorted the contacts at the detector for 30 seconds.

After a few days.....I get the Low-Bat message again.

Yes, the batteries are new and fresh.


Any ideas what I can do to fix this pain?


Replace the smoke. Hopefully the faulty unit is still under warranty.
 
C

Crash Gordon

Before replacing the smoke...are you using Duracells?

I lost an idiot client because HE kept putting in cheap Walgreens 9v
batteries in the smokes instead of what I told him...he was such an
ass...even though it clearly says inside the battery compartment what type
of battery to use.
 
S

Samuel Rutherford

Before replacing the smoke...are you using Duracells?

I lost an idiot client because HE kept putting in cheap Walgreens 9v
batteries in the smokes instead of what I told him...he was such an
ass...even though it clearly says inside the battery compartment what type
of battery to use.

Well, like they say, "oh, I forget to tell you one thing......" In my
case I'm sick of the CR123A batteries ($$$) and hardwired a 6v D cell
battery pack into the wireless smoke detector. I worked perfectly for
years (as they say) and then just recently, for whatever reason, I get
the Low-Bat message on the keypad. The detector had been used in the
attic for about 7 years. The cold Winter temperatures effected the
CR123a's too much so I put in the D cell pack. The Lithium's would
only last about 1 year.
 
J

Jim

Well, like they say, "oh, I forget to tell you one thing......" �In my
case I'm sick of the CR123A batteries ($$$) and hardwired a 6v D cell
battery pack into the wireless smoke detector. �I worked perfectly for
years (as they say) and then just recently, for whatever reason, I get
the Low-Bat message on the keypad. �The detector had been used inthe
attic for about 7 years. �The cold Winter temperatures effected the
CR123a's too much so I put in the D cell pack. �The Lithium's would
only last about 1 year.-


You didn't say, but I presume you are an end user.

A. Lithium batteries are used in wireless devices for a specific
reason. The fact that they didn't work in the attic
should have been the first clue that led you to B ..... below.
B. Smoke detectors(battery powered or otherwise) don't belong
installed in non controled environments.
C. You're "lucky" it worked for so long.
D. If it's not the battery it can only be the "other thingy" in the
mix.
E. If you installed the system yourself, you'll have to change the
smoke detector which means you'll have
program in the new smoke detectors ID code.
F. Otherwise you'll have to call your installer in to do it.
G. and lastly, I don't use the product however, it occurs to me that
you may have hooked the batteries up the wronig way. It would seem to
me that the device would work on 3volts but with the batteries doubled
up in "parallel " to obtain a larger current draw at 3 volts rather
than operating at 6 volts with the batteries hooked in "series". If
I'm right, and it's been operating at 6 volts all this time, you've
damaged the unit.
 
J

JoeRaisin

Samuel said:
Well, like they say, "oh, I forget to tell you one thing......" In my
case I'm sick of the CR123A batteries ($$$) and hardwired a 6v D cell
battery pack into the wireless smoke detector. I worked perfectly for
years (as they say) and then just recently, for whatever reason, I get
the Low-Bat message on the keypad. The detector had been used in the
attic for about 7 years. The cold Winter temperatures effected the
CR123a's too much so I put in the D cell pack. The Lithium's would
only last about 1 year.

Did you read the spec sheet on that smoke detector? If the temperature
is too cold for the batteries it is too cold for the device. It is
possible that you have been relying upon protection that wasn't there.

In the two years I have been testing fire alarms I have run across 2
wireless smoke detectors that seemed to work (they went into alarm when
the test button was pushed) but did nothing when I applied smoke-check.
Both these devices were ones that had been exposed to temperature
extremes. Obviously - not every detector exposed presented these
symptoms, but every one that presented these symptoms had been exposed...

If you want protection in the attic then get a standard hard wired heat
detector (in attics I suggest a 190 degree rate-of-rise detector) and
run the wire to a 5817 transmitter (use the supervised loop) in a closet
on the floor below. that way you have a device that can handle the
temperature extremes of the environment and the wireless transmitter is
in a controlled environment. The added bonus is that you don't have to
go up to the attic to clean the detector. (you do clean your detectors
regularly, don't you?)

Folks that don't understand the technology make these mistakes - that's
ignorance and what this newsgroup tries to help correct. Correcting
this sort of misapplication can help keep folks (and more to the point,
your family) safe.

Ignorant can be fixed - stupid is there to stay.

Which are you?
 
C

Crash Gordon

Ah...I see, I see...welp then you can join my idiot client in the Land of
Nod.

Yelp...a couple of bucks is an enormous sum to spend on a life-safety
device.

Lemme guess...it's a self-monitored system too.

Sheesh dood.

--
**Crash Gordon**
 
S

Samuel Rutherford

You didn't say, but I presume you are an end user.

A. Lithium batteries are used in wireless devices for a specific
reason. The fact that they didn't work in the attic
     should have been the first clue that led you to B ..... below.
B. Smoke detectors(battery powered or otherwise) don't belong
installed in non controled environments.
C. You're "lucky" it worked for so long.
D. If it's not the battery it can only be the "other thingy" in the
mix.
E. If you installed the system yourself, you'll have to change the
smoke detector which means you'll have
     program in the new smoke detectors ID code.
F. Otherwise you'll have to call your installer in to do it.
G. and lastly, I don't use the product however, it occurs to me that
you may have hooked the batteries up the wronig way. It would seem to
me that the device would work on 3volts but with the batteries doubled
up in "parallel " to obtain a larger current draw at 3 volts rather
than operating at 6 volts with the batteries hooked in "series". If
I'm right, and it's been operating at 6 volts all this time, you've
damaged the unit.

I didn't install the system.

Yes, of course I'm not so stupid as not to observe proper battery
polarity and I checked the battery pack voltage before I connected it
to the detector.

I now maintain the system myself and have little or no trouble
programming the system....it's extremely easy. I'm eliminating the RF
devices and replacing them with hardwired units. Yes, I can get cheap
cr123a batteries online but the sad commentary of my life is "dead
batteries".
 
S

Samuel Rutherford

Did you read the spec sheet on that smoke detector?  If the temperature
is too cold for the batteries it is too cold for the device.  It is
possible that you have been relying upon protection that wasn't there.

In the two years I have been testing fire alarms I have run across 2
wireless smoke detectors that seemed to work (they went into alarm when
the test button was pushed) but did nothing when I applied smoke-check.
  Both these devices were ones that had been exposed to temperature
extremes.  Obviously - not every detector exposed presented these
symptoms, but every one that presented these symptoms had been exposed...

If you want protection in the attic then get a standard hard wired heat
detector (in attics I suggest a 190 degree rate-of-rise detector) and
run the wire to a 5817 transmitter (use the supervised loop) in a closet
on the floor below.  that way you have a device that can handle the
temperature extremes of the environment and the wireless transmitter is
in a controlled environment.  The added bonus is that you don't have to
go up to the attic to clean the detector. (you do clean your detectors
regularly, don't you?)

Folks that don't understand the technology make these mistakes - that's
ignorance and what this newsgroup tries to help correct.  Correcting
this sort of misapplication can help keep folks (and more to the point,
your family) safe.

Ignorant can be fixed - stupid is there to stay.

Which are you?

As mentioned before, I didn't install the system- a security company
installed it. Face it- most of the guys installing these systems
might have graduated from high school and, believe it or not, might be
able to read. But typically they have no knowledge about the
equipment's electronics.

I love playing with alarm systems and am greatly amazed at the
stupidity of installers. Too bad if that offends you guys but stop
ripping people off with gadgets that don't work....like.....motion
detectors that aren't sensitive to pets....and aiming motion detectors
at heating devices.

Well, to put it bluntly.....ever hear of "smoke in a can" or just a
smoking paper towel? You, didn't mention the method you use to test
detectors. I test all of the detectors in our house once per month.
Yes, once per month. Also....have you ever used a hair dryer to test
the heat detector elements?
 
S

Samuel Rutherford

Ah...I see, I see...welp then you can join my idiot client in the Land of
Nod.

Yelp...a couple of bucks is an enormous sum to spend on a life-safety
device.

Lemme guess...it's a self-monitored system too.

Sheesh dood.

No, genius, it's not self monitored. None of you dummies have
mentioned anything about the current draw of of an 5808 LST (Ademco)
detector. No doubt it's in milli or micro amps.

I'm glad I'm not one of your "customers". Is your work mostly in
trailer parks?
 
S

Samuel Rutherford

You didn't say, but I presume you are an end user.

A. Lithium batteries are used in wireless devices for a specific
reason. The fact that they didn't work in the attic
     should have been the first clue that led you to B ..... below.
B. Smoke detectors(battery powered or otherwise) don't belong
installed in non controled environments.
C. You're "lucky" it worked for so long.
D. If it's not the battery it can only be the "other thingy" in the
mix.
E. If you installed the system yourself, you'll have to change the
smoke detector which means you'll have
     program in the new smoke detectors ID code.
F. Otherwise you'll have to call your installer in to do it.
G. and lastly, I don't use the product however, it occurs to me that
you may have hooked the batteries up the wronig way. It would seem to
me that the device would work on 3volts but with the batteries doubled
up in "parallel " to obtain a larger current draw at 3 volts rather
than operating at 6 volts with the batteries hooked in "series". If
I'm right, and it's been operating at 6 volts all this time, you've
damaged the unit.

The device requires 6v to operate (2 lithium 3v batteries in series)


I'm getting rid of the damn RF devices and hardwiring detectors and
contacts. Programming is very easy.
 
K

KingFish

is that rlb pulling my leg again?


As mentioned before, I didn't install the system- a security company
installed it. Face it- most of the guys installing these systems
might have graduated from high school and, believe it or not, might be
able to read. But typically they have no knowledge about the
equipment's electronics.

I love playing with alarm systems and am greatly amazed at the
stupidity of installers. Too bad if that offends you guys but stop
ripping people off with gadgets that don't work....like.....motion
detectors that aren't sensitive to pets....and aiming motion detectors
at heating devices.

Well, to put it bluntly.....ever hear of "smoke in a can" or just a
smoking paper towel? You, didn't mention the method you use to test
detectors. I test all of the detectors in our house once per month.
Yes, once per month. Also....have you ever used a hair dryer to test
the heat detector elements?
 
D

Doug

As mentioned before, I didn't install the system- a security company
installed it. Face it- most of the guys installing these systems
might have graduated from high school and, believe it or not, might be
able to read. But typically they have no knowledge about the
equipment's electronics.

I love playing with alarm systems and am greatly amazed at the
stupidity of installers. Too bad if that offends you guys but stop
ripping people off with gadgets that don't work....like.....motion
detectors that aren't sensitive to pets....and aiming motion detectors
at heating devices.

Well, to put it bluntly.....ever hear of "smoke in a can" or just a
smoking paper towel? You, didn't mention the method you use to test
detectors. I test all of the detectors in our house once per month.
Yes, once per month. Also....have you ever used a hair dryer to test
the heat detector elements?

I tried the hair dryer once, but I had mixed results, I was too cheap to buy
an extension cord so I tried to run it off ten car batteries, it worked
perfectly for seven seconds, it put out a lot of heat, the heat came out the
wrong end but thats a minor detail and it even doubled as a smoke detector
tester for a few brief seconds and now I can't understand why it doesn't
work at all. I think I'm going to sulk and start throwing tantrums, but
first I have to figure out how to close the battery compartment on my smoke
detector, the batteries just don't seem to fit properly.


Doug
 
C

Crash Gordon

You can test a heat detector with your hands...no need for hair drier.
You're old enough to know the secret trick right?

--
**Crash Gordon**
 
C

Crash Gordon

Uh huh...million dollar and up "trailers"...for 25+ years and have installed
(personally) thousands of alarm systems. How many did you say you've
installed?

And, I've yet to consider running a wireless transmitter (let alone a smoke
detector) on anything other than what the designers/manufacturers recommend.

If you were concerned about the cost of a 5$ battery once a year (we
actually get 3-5 years out of them) then you shoulda hardwired the smokes a
long time ago.

Do you know what FPL wire is?

Just admit it...you're cheap and dangerous.



--
**Crash Gordon**
 
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