Looking for remote wall switch

[Spehro Pefhany]

2013: Walk into dark room and try to find your tablet computer. Login
with biometric authentication and password. On the 4th try, the
tablet finally recognizes your hung over, unshaven, and unkempt
appearance. Wait while a dozen applications insist on updating
themselves immediately. Find the WeMo light switch app among the
dozen new games the kids have installed. Push the relevant light
switch button. Nothing happens. Try again. Still nothing. Pause
watching Netflix Super-HD movie to recover bandwidth. Try again.
Light comes on.

This is progress?

Pluck smartphone out of pocket, key in unlock code, swipe a page or
two over to the app, jab it a couple more times, done, go back to
waiting in queue for morning take-out coffee.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

You might not enjoy my smartphone (Droid-X2). Every time I try to do
something useful, it spontaneously reboots. I should probably wipe it
and start over, but I've become accustomed to the reboots and can
probably live with it for a while longer.

I would kill it dead.


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"dave" wrote in message

I've been to their warehouse in North Las Vegas. They are busy. Dr Bill
Wattenburg invented the communications-over-powerline methods they use.

Interesting. The X10 Website seems to have disappeared, along with the bargain
prices. Their customer- and technical-service office used to be around the
corner, in Renton.

 

[[email protected]]

"isw" wrote in message news:isw-B09B64.21412324112013@[216.168.3.50]...

Correct. But I don't think X10 makes a three-way appliance module.

They all are. You just need an X10 wireless receiver and two (or more)
X10 remote switches.

Ahem. That is not the common usage of "two-way" or "three-way".[/QUOTE]

Sure it is. The appliance can be turned on or off from two or three
(or N) locations.

 

[[email protected]]

I'd agree, BUT.
I buy the stuff dirt cheap at garage sales.
Works well enough, but it's really old technology.
Susceptible to noise.
Needs help bridging phases of the line.

If I were gonna buy it at retail prices, I think
I'd investigate some of the newer lines.

IME, the "newer lines" are a lot more expensive and no more reliable
(if that good).

 

[[email protected]]

"dave" wrote in message



Interesting. The X10 Website seems to have disappeared, along with the bargain
prices. Their customer- and technical-service office used to be around the
corner, in Renton.

X10.org is still around. It's apparently owned by SmartHome, now.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

wrote in message

"isw" wrote in message news:isw-B09B64.21412324112013@[216.168.3.50]...

Sure it is. The appliance can be turned on or off from two or three
(or N) locations.

It wasn't like that when I was growing up 60 years ago.

These terms have a specific meaning that refers to a hard-wired connection.

 

[[email protected]]

wrote in message

"isw" wrote in message news:isw-B09B64.21412324112013@[216.168.3.50]...

Sure it is. The appliance can be turned on or off from two or three
(or N) locations.

It wasn't like that when I was growing up 60 years ago.

What wasn't like that?

These terms have a specific meaning that refers to a hard-wired connection.

It refers to a function. The mechanics of how that function is
performed is irrelevant, isn't it?

 

[amdx]

<http://www.belkin.com/us/wemo>
Kinda expen$ive. Uses wi-fi to communicate, not power lines. Supports
IFTTT.
<https://ifttt.com/wtf>
A major step up from X10. However, it might be a bit overkill for a
3-way light switch.

How to turn on a room light:

1960: Walk over to wall switch. Flip switch. Light turns on.

1975: Find the X10 wireless remote control. Try to remember which
button controls which light. Press button. Wrong light. Press "all
on" and never mind the electric bill.

2003: Say the magic buzzword that activates the voice controlled home
automation system.
You say: "Room light on".
Controller asks: "Which room"?
You say: "Can't you figure out which room I'm in"?
Controller says: "I do not understand the command".
You snarl: "Bedroom"
Controller asks: "Bright, reading, soft, or motion controlled"?
You say: "Bright" and the lights turn on.
You say (quietly): "Worthless piece of disgusting junk..."
Controller says: "I do not understand the command".
Sound of breaking glass as something hits the LCD display.

2013: Walk into dark room and try to find your tablet computer. Login
with biometric authentication and password. On the 4th try, the
tablet finally recognizes your hung over, unshaven, and unkempt
appearance. Wait while a dozen applications insist on updating
themselves immediately. Find the WeMo light switch app among the
dozen new games the kids have installed. Push the relevant light
switch button. Nothing happens. Try again. Still nothing. Pause
watching Netflix Super-HD movie to recover bandwidth. Try again.
Light comes on.

This is progress?

And all I want is a switch that will turn the kitchen light on and
off, from about 18 ft away without, and I don't want to add wiring.
I want it to act like what normally is called a 3* way switch.
I want the existing kitchen switch to at least look about the same,
being aware that the wiring/components may be different.
I would like it to drive a CFL bulb.
This model has a huge presence on the web,
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Chamberlain-BL-6133-WH-BL-6133-WH-Wireless-Add-On-Switch-Set/17101311
I says 500 watt incandescent lighting only. I see writings about these
types of receivers needing some leakage current, I'm tempted to get one
and try it.
At this point I have remote switch overload.

Thanks all, Mikek


*Searching the net I see, 2 way switch and 3 way switch are often used
to describe the same thing

 

[William Sommerwerck]

These terms have a specific meaning that refers to a hard-wired connection.

It refers to a function. The mechanics of how that function is
performed is irrelevant, isn't it?

Not in this case.

If multiple wireless switches can be installed to activate lights or
appliances, then you have an N-way setup.

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

I checked my CFL, it says "Not Dimable"
Btw, my bulb is 5000k 1550 to 1686 lumens? found three
ratings for the same bulb.
ECOT23 or sku384314. May look for new bulb, (again)

Mikek

A diffuser?

Jamie

 

[[email protected]]

Not in this case.

If multiple wireless switches can be installed to activate lights or
appliances, then you have an N-way setup.

WTF are you talking about?

 

[Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.]

<http://www.belkin.com/us/wemo>
Kinda expen$ive. Uses wi-fi to communicate, not power lines. Supports
IFTTT.
<https://ifttt.com/wtf>
A major step up from X10. However, it might be a bit overkill for a
3-way light switch.

How to turn on a room light:

1960: Walk over to wall switch. Flip switch. Light turns on.

1975: Find the X10 wireless remote control. Try to remember which
button controls which light. Press button. Wrong light. Press "all
on" and never mind the electric bill.

2003: Say the magic buzzword that activates the voice controlled home
automation system.
You say: "Room light on".
Controller asks: "Which room"?
You say: "Can't you figure out which room I'm in"?
Controller says: "I do not understand the command".
You snarl: "Bedroom"
Controller asks: "Bright, reading, soft, or motion controlled"?
You say: "Bright" and the lights turn on.
You say (quietly): "Worthless piece of disgusting junk..."
Controller says: "I do not understand the command".
Sound of breaking glass as something hits the LCD display.

2013: Walk into dark room and try to find your tablet computer. Login
with biometric authentication and password. On the 4th try, the
tablet finally recognizes your hung over, unshaven, and unkempt
appearance. Wait while a dozen applications insist on updating
themselves immediately. Find the WeMo light switch app among the
dozen new games the kids have installed. Push the relevant light
switch button. Nothing happens. Try again. Still nothing. Pause
watching Netflix Super-HD movie to recover bandwidth. Try again.
Light comes on.

This is progress?

SO you're saying the "CLAPPER" which I didn't see listed, would be a
better choice?

Jamie

 

[William Sommerwerck]

I just saw these products in Home Despot, and thought they might be of
interest...

http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2013-11-13/why-ge-sees-big-things-in-quirkys-little-inventions

 

[Robert Baer]

"isw" wrote in message news:isw-B09B64.21412324112013@[216.168.3.50]...

Correct. But I don't think X10 makes a three-way appliance module.

They all are. You just need an X10 wireless receiver and two (or more)
X10 remote switches.

Ahem. That is not the common usage of "two-way" or "three-way".[/QUOTE]
Perhaps, but the effect is exactly the same: if light is on, any
switch can turn it off - and vice-versa.

 

[Robert Baer]

And all I want is a switch that will turn the kitchen light on and off,
from about 18 ft away without, and I don't want to add wiring.
I want it to act like what normally is called a 3* way switch.
I want the existing kitchen switch to at least look about the same,
being aware that the wiring/components may be different.
I would like it to drive a CFL bulb.
This model has a huge presence on the web,
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Chamberlain-BL-6133-WH-BL-6133-WH-Wireless-Add-On-Switch-Set/17101311

I says 500 watt incandescent lighting only. I see writings about these
types of receivers needing some leakage current, I'm tempted to get one
and try it.
At this point I have remote switch overload.

Thanks all, Mikek


*Searching the net I see, 2 way switch and 3 way switch are often used
to describe the same thing

The device i mentioned needs no added wiring, and does not need a
hole in the wall for the switch,which is a flat panel with a rocker-type
switch.

 

[hamilton]

The device i mentioned needs no added wiring, and does not need a
hole in the wall for the switch,which is a flat panel with a rocker-type
switch.

Sounds like an opportunity for some enterprising engineer !

Ya up to the challenge ?

 

[ehsjr]

"amdx" wrote in message


I'll have to make this clear... Whether the module will turn a CFL on
and off has nothing to do with whether the CFL is dimmable.

While accurate, that may create the wrong impression that it's
ok to use a non dim-able CFL with a module that includes the
dimming function.

If the module includes a dimming function and dims
(or attempts to) a CFL that is not dim-able, you
will likely burn out the CFL.

Ed

 

[amdx]

No problem. Find about 50ft of kite string. Drill a hole in the wall
switch lever. Replace the two 6-32 screws holding the switch plate
with eye hooks. Screw another eye hook into the wall 18ft away. Run
the string in a loop, with a weight to maintain tension. Tie the ends
to the hole in the switch lever. Pull on one string, and the switch
turns on. Pull on the other string, and the switch turns off. Just
like a 3-way switch.

Who needs technology anyway?


Well, nobody will notice the extra hole and string. However, if want
to hide the mechanism, I fishing line should be sufficiently strong
and transparent.

That"s it, the string kept breaking, I'll change to fish line, much
stronger.

Thanks, Mikek

 

[amdx]

Did you look at the above Smarthome URL? It's a wall mount switch.
All Z-wave saves you in this case is having to run an extra wire
between switches to make it 3-way.


It would be VERY helpful if you would supply a list of requirements
and constraints for your project.

Sorry, I think I needed educating before I knew what the requirements
and constraints of my project were!
I consider myself appropriately chastised.
But, I'll probably make the same mistake again. :-/

Mikek