Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Level 2 newby with a few questions

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
The whole point is that we simply can't tell what resistance will slow the motor down by how much. Also (and this is a bigger deal) you'll probably find that the motor will lose torque when it is slowed down.

Now, I presume that you'll be doing something like spinning slightly angled mirrors and reflecting the beam from one spinning mirror to the other. In this case the torque isn't going to be much of an issue and you're probably not going to have to vary the speed over a significant range.

However, you first need to determine the range of resistances you need to use, then select a pot with a value near the maximum that you've chosen.

As I mentioned above, there's no magic formula. I also would have thought that a couple of fixed resistors will be a lot cheaper than a fairly high wattage pot.

Incidentally, I just happen to have one of those laser spirograph thingies that I built up from a kit. I believe it switches resistors in series with the motor, but I'd have to check. Hmmm, can only find the April 1992 version, and it's not that one.
 
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The whole point is that we simply can't tell what resistance will slow the motor down by how much. Also (and this is a bigger deal) you'll probably find that the motor will lose torque when it is slowed down.

Now, I presume that you'll be doing something like spinning slightly angled mirrors and reflecting the beam from one spinning mirror to the other. In this case the torque isn't going to be much of an issue and you're probably not going to have to vary the speed over a significant range.

However, you first need to determine the range of resistances you need to use, then select a pot with a value near the maximum that you've chosen.

As I mentioned above, there's no magic formula. I also would have thought that a couple of fixed resistors will be a lot cheaper than a fairly high wattage pot.

Incidentally, I just happen to have one of those laser spirograph thingies that I built up from a kit. I believe it switches resistors in series with the motor, but I'd have to check. Hmmm, can only find the April 1992 version, and it's not that one.

thanks for this and i found that 20ohms was too much. it woulnd't allow enough amps through to get the motor rolling. 10ohms was good, able to start up just fine. so i think i'll go with that one pot i had linked to the other day and that should be fine.

Thanks everybody for all your help and i'm sure i'll have more questions.

Matter of fact. Back to the powersupply, i know now that i'll be needing a 3v unit, what about amperage? do i just sum up the total amperages that i'll be running and get one in that range?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
Matter of fact. Back to the powersupply, i know now that i'll be needing a 3v unit, what about amperage? do i just sum up the total amperages that i'll be running and get one in that range?

That is a good approach.

I would advise getting a power supply rated for at least 25% more current than you think you'll need. This will allow the power supply to run further from its limits.

If the motors for a substantial part of the load and they will all start up together (and they do this frequently, not just once at startup) then you may be advised to overrate your power supply even more as the initial switch-on current may be quite high.
 
The schematic for the circuit... let me know if i need anything else or if you see something wrong with the design...

7633790340_bf0ce276b8_b.jpg
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
Moderator
two minor issues.

The first is that the pots are shown wired up as resistors, either show the arrow going through the resistor on an angle, or connect to the line coming from the arrow (or indeed show a connection from the arrow to one end of the device.

Second, it is more typical to wire the motor to the common connection of the switch and have the power supply connected to the other contacts. Depending on your switch, this may not make any difference at all.

Power supply seems adequately rated assuming it's a low powered laser diode.
 
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