Lead-Free soldering equipment?

[Steve Noll]

Looking for recommendations for soldering stations for hand soldering
lead-free solder. Getting geared up for RoHS. Surprised that the
solder manufacturers I've contacted don't have any specific
recommendations.

 

[Pooh Bear]

Looking for recommendations for soldering stations for hand soldering
lead-free solder. Getting geared up for RoHS. Surprised that the
solder manufacturers I've contacted don't have any specific
recommendations.

Use the same as before with a hotter tip.

Graham

 

[Joerg]

Hello Steve,

Looking for recommendations for soldering stations for hand soldering
lead-free solder. Getting geared up for RoHS. Surprised that the
solder manufacturers I've contacted don't have any specific
recommendations.

Solder manufacturers will hardly recommend irons. You have to go to the
sites of manufacturers of irons such as Weller. Their silver series is
advertised as more suited for lead free, mainly because of the use of
higher power elements.

However, it depends of what you want to solder. The Weller stations here
have variable temperature, meaning there is a potmeter up front. So I
don't really see any problems there or why we'd have to buy new irons. I
have seen people light a cigarette with an ordinary Weller iron. Not
allowed around here though. For really big stuff there is a 500W big
Bertha in the closet. For really, really big stuff we still have that
blow torch ;-)

Regards, Joerg

 

[Chris Carlen]

Looking for recommendations for soldering stations for hand soldering
lead-free solder. Getting geared up for RoHS. Surprised that the
solder manufacturers I've contacted don't have any specific
recommendations.

If you need to do wire soldering, I have investigated many SAC305 wires,
and can tell you that the best by far is Kester's SAC305 #66/48 (that
means flux type 48, with 3% concentration.)

The #58/275 no-clean sold by many vendors is almost unusable without
added flux.

I have also tried other brands. The best other one is Aim Solder SAC305
with no-clean "Glow-Core" 2.5% flux, and for a water soluble, Aim's
WS482 3%.

Alpha's no-clean Telecore Plus SAC305 3.3% is fair, about as good as
Aim's Glow-Core.

Basically, the non-Kester 48 is difficult wetting, but works well with
added flux. Kester 48 is the best wetting lead-free by far without
added flux, but often you still need added flux.

Lead-free just doesn't work like SnPb. Tinning wires for instance, is
challenging. Even wetting the entire wire end before soldering, you can
never really get the whole thing evenly wetted with solder, without also
having to heat it for a minute and have the insulation dripping off.
What works best here is just to add flux, then let a bead of solder on
the tip of the iron soak into the wire in a few seconds. The strands
won't be wetted on their outer surfaces, but will be glued together by
the solder that wicked inside.

Actually, SAC305 is somewhat appealing for wire tinning, since lead
solder tends to fatigue into mush rather easily when tinned ends are
bent a few times, whereas the stronger SAC305 doesn't do this.

As far as soldering PTH parts into a PCB with wire solder, the Kester 48
is by far superior to the others in terms of wetting and flowing. But
still not smooth like SnPb.




--
Good day!

________________________________________
Christopher R. Carlen
Principal Laser&Electronics Technologist
Sandia National Laboratories CA USA
[email protected]
NOTE, delete texts: "RemoveThis" and
"BOGUS" from email address to reply.

 

[Joerg]

Hello Chris,

If you need to do wire soldering, I have investigated many SAC305 wires,
and can tell you that the best by far is Kester's SAC305 #66/48 (that
means flux type 48, with 3% concentration.)

What is your experience in terms of results when hand-soldering lead
free? What I mean is cold solder joints, burnt parts, general looks. Was
it easy to get the hang of it after a few days?

Regards, Joerg

 

[Chris Carlen]

Hello Chris,


What is your experience in terms of results when hand-soldering lead
free? What I mean is cold solder joints, burnt parts, general looks. Was
it easy to get the hang of it after a few days?

PCB soldering is pretty easy, since the holes are already an almost
perfect soldering surface. Actually, I was probably soldering to SnPb
plated holes, as my proto PCB fab delivers this still. Haven't tried
tin only yet.

But I found Kester 48 flowed clear through through-holes, while other
fluxes didn't have the ability to "lead" the flowing metal enough to
allow the wetting to propagate reliably through holes.

I haven't seen any troubles with cold solder joints, just poor flow.

The SAC305 of course solidifies to a "frosty" finish. This is more so
on PCBs, and less so when soldering wires. In fact, oddly much of my
wire soldering looks shiny.

It also isn't that difficult to get to soldering temp and flow on PTH
PCBs. I use 750F tip temp. One has to be careful about overtemping not
only parts, but the flux as well. That is why lead-free often requires
solder manufacturers to rework the flux chemistry. Kester 48 is a high
activity, higher-temp flux specially designed for lead-free alloys.
Both the higher activity is needed, as well as higher temp.

The only place where I have trouble with burning things is tinning
wires, like I said.

I haven't tried SMT soldering yet. That is the next phase of
experimenting. I am debating whether to continue with 0.015" wire
solder to do 0603-2010 range of parts, and ICs, or to try my hand at
paste again. Perhaps I will get the 0.015" wire just because I can do
it now instead of waiting to get approval and choose new hot-air
soldering tools.

I'll comment on my experiences when I get to that. But it may take a
few months. I have little need to work with lead-free here now, other
than curiosity.





--
Good day!

________________________________________
Christopher R. Carlen
Principal Laser&Electronics Technologist
Sandia National Laboratories CA USA
[email protected]
NOTE, delete texts: "RemoveThis" and
"BOGUS" from email address to reply.

 

[Joerg]

Hello Chris,

Thanks for sharing your experience.

I'll comment on my experiences when I get to that. ...

That would be great.

Regards, Joerg

 

[Ken Smith]

The #58/275 no-clean sold by many vendors is almost unusable without
added flux.

So its "no fluxing good".

I have also tried other brands. The best other one is Aim Solder SAC305
with no-clean "Glow-Core" 2.5% flux, and for a water soluble, Aim's
WS482 3%.

I'll have to look into that stuff.

Lead-free just doesn't work like SnPb. Tinning wires for instance, is
challenging. Even wetting the entire wire end before soldering, you can
never really get the whole thing evenly wetted with solder, without also
having to heat it for a minute and have the insulation dripping off.
What works best here is just to add flux, then let a bead of solder on
the tip of the iron soak into the wire in a few seconds. The strands
won't be wetted on their outer surfaces, but will be glued together by
the solder that wicked inside.

This sounds like Litz wire and lead free can't live together. Does anyone
have experience with this combination yet?

 

[maxfoo]

Looking for recommendations for soldering stations for hand soldering
lead-free solder. Getting geared up for RoHS. Surprised that the
solder manufacturers I've contacted don't have any specific
recommendations.

Hakko 936 if you need a low price high quality soldering station.
Or Metcal 500S if money is no object.

 

[Ken Smith]

Hakko 936 if you need a low price high quality soldering station.
Or Metcal 500S if money is no object.

The Metcal is a nice product. You can solder an 0603 resistor and then
solder two pennies together with the same tip. The temperature control
happens very near the working point so the regulation is very good.

 

[Frank Miles]

The Metcal is a nice product. You can solder an 0603 resistor and then
solder two pennies together with the same tip. The temperature control
happens very near the working point so the regulation is very good.

With the temperature regulation a property of the tips, do you need a
different set of tips for lead-free (higher temperature) work?

-frank
--

 

[GregS]

Hakko 936 if you need a low price high quality soldering station.
Or Metcal 500S if money is no object.

The most obvious need is not just the iron, but a "lead free tip"
Soldering fluxes are probably more important when using these
other solders.

I'm not into lead free, yet

greg
..

 

[Ken Smith]

With the temperature regulation a property of the tips, do you need a
different set of tips for lead-free (higher temperature) work?

I suspect that the answer is "sort of". The tip temperature is well above
the melting point of lead based solder so chances are it would work for
lead-free but not quite as well. I'd have to check to see if Metcal has
lead-free tips.