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Just When I Thought it was Going to Be Easy

@VB...yeah..I just learned that the hard way ;-(

The tubing helped, but it did not get me all the way there. So, I just put a little pin of Kitchen and bath caulking around the inside of the whole in the box. I will report back.

P.S. I am one of the pose people who rarely throws anythign electronic out, so I am sure I will find a solution somewhere.
 
Hmm. If the inner ring seal works, I will also have to pout a little ring of sealant around the outer surface of the box, around the ring. Otherwise, the washer will touch.
 
Concept is simple enough. Execution ..... Well, now you know.
I'd have 3d printed something by now, but I'm going to assume that is not an option here
 
Turns out that scotch tape did the trick. However; everything works now, until I close the box firmly shut. Something must be shorting because it stops working. It works even until the box is almost firmly shut, but when I tighten the screws to finish the job, it no longer works. I think it is because too much is crammed into the enclosure. Which is frustrating.

Over the last several weeks, I have been picking up odd things from the dollar store, to serve as prototype enclosures. For example, last week I bought a small plastic tool box for $2.50 and used it to build a pedal ion. Whenever I use the types of enclosures, which allow for more room, I don't have issues.

I know the solution is to buy bigger boxes, but I still have 5 of these steel boxes that were not cheap, that I was hoping to use.
 
This gets into more elements than you thought ... Some of them kinda boring, others seemingly unrelated.
Just about anyone actively building things like this would benefit from having a 3D printer. At least for knobs if nothing else.
In your case, project boxes made to order. But for now, you are at the stage where you should get the cheapest stomp box you can find on Amazon to take apart and have a look inside ... they made it all fit sweet and easy through intelligent layout. Just where you route things can eliminate much of this sort of pain.
another thing is paint ... not just any old paint though, it needs to be a bit tougher than your garden variety stuff.
See if you cannot find some rattle cans of appliance epoxy paint. Here in the states we have it in white, black and sometimes a cream flavor if the hardware store was feeling fancy. it takes a while to dry, but it holds up well. if you give the inside of your metal boxes a coat of white, followed by a coat of black, the contrast will show where components are getting smashed into the case with significant force. It'll also serve as insulation. Probably not a great primary insulation layer, but at least a fair safety net.
 
Thanks for the suggestions VB!

At last, it is done. See pic.

Are those fancy and edgy black racing stripes on the side of the box? Or, is that black electrical tape, made to look like
fancy and edgy black racing stripes to cover up where I drilled holes that did not end up working out? I'll never tell.

And note the purple LED.

A masterpiece, thanks to you all. Bertus. AG, VB, Harald etc.

Now..back to the single op amp. I think I'll breadboard it first as you had suggested VB.

Should I start a new thread for the single op amp project?
 

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Mystery solved.

I breadboarded the single op amp I have. Turns out that the Pin mappings do not subscribe to the TL081 op amp. Rather, the main differences are in two pins:

VCC is Pin 8. (not Pin 7)
Out is Pin 1 (not Pin 6)

I bought a million of these op amps on Amazon. I wondered why they were so cheap. I am thinking that perhaps they were stamped incorrectly. Maybe the TL081 stamp is incorrect?

Anyway, now that I figured it out, it sounds great in the circuit. Next, I will build it on a PCB.

I noticed that it follows the Pin mapping of the TL082. However, the TL082 is a dual op amp. I am not sure if this one is a dual or single op amp. It's important to know, so I can buffer the second op amp if it is a dual. How would I know?

These are them: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FFRMWTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
The 4558 is indeed a dual opamp so its pinout would be the same as the TL082. It's easy to discover these things, just look up the datasheet!
 
Thanks guys. I know the data sheet could tell me. The issue is, why does it have the wrong labeling on it and, given that, how do I know for sure that it’s a dual. It says it’s a TL081 but it behaves like a TL082, but what if it is a different series altogether that is a single
 
If it has the manufacturers marking on it (I don't mean some obscure Chinese outfit) and it says it is a TL081 then I think it is safe to assume it is a TL081. Buying from Amazon is no guarantee that they are Kosher!
 
Amazon sell shoes and clothes. Then Amazon and their sellers know nothing about the electronic parts they sell except the color and weight.

EDIT:
An IC marked TL081 that behaves like a TL082 is obviously a fake.
 
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@AG. I think you’re right and I know you have warned me about this in the past.
Back to the reason why I have used Amazon. $20 delivery fee from Digikeys.however, I have signed up with Nuetrix (sp?) and I will see what they are like in the future.
 
If it has the manufacturers marking on it (I don't mean some obscure Chinese outfit) and it says it is a TL081 then I think it is safe to assume it is a TL081. Buying from Amazon is no guarantee that they are Kosher!
On the op amp, the following is written:

19ALE3M
TL081CP

There is also a pic that I posted on post 12 of this thread
 
It’s a good thing the mystery was solved. Do you recall how many posts I made with peculiar pin readings? ( I can hear @AG saying I told you so). Lol

the only positive outcome is now I have about 50 op amps that I can deploy in my experiments
 
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