High temp. connectors?

[DaveC]

My toaster resurrection project

Need to (re)connect the nichrome wire to the insulated, stranded supply wire.
The existing (now overheated and useless, due to heat via bad connection)
connection is a rivet (stainless?) with the nichrome wrapped around the head,
and a brass (looking) crimp on the backside that accepts the supply wire.

Barring an original replacement item, what replacements would you recommend?
Most crimp ring terminals aren't brass. Should I use brass? A rivet would be
difficult to install here. Would a threaded fastener (nut & bolt) be
sufficient? Stainless?

Thanks,
--
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ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[Phil Scott]

My toaster resurrection project

Need to (re)connect the nichrome wire to the insulated, stranded supply wire.
The existing (now overheated and useless, due to heat via bad connection)
connection is a rivet (stainless?) with the nichrome wrapped around the head,
and a brass (looking) crimp on the backside that accepts the supply wire.

Barring an original replacement item, what replacements would you recommend?
Most crimp ring terminals aren't brass. Should I use brass? A rivet would be
difficult to install here. Would a threaded fastener (nut & bolt) be
sufficient? Stainless?

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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those are specially rated terminals and wire ... a first rate
appliance repair shop would have them and might sell you a
few..otherwise search google.

brass and copper wont work unless plated, ni chrome or silver
usually. the insulation is special also

Phil Scott

 

[DaveC]

those are specially rated terminals and wire ... a first rate
appliance repair shop would have them and might sell you a
few..

Can't use anything off-the-shelf?

otherwise search google.
Have.

brass and copper wont work unless plated, ni chrome or silver
usually. the insulation is special also

Don't need more nichrome or supply wire; there's enough slack to make it
work. Just need a means for connecting these together through the mica (?)
composite backing board.

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[DaveC]

I would probably use a plated crimp sleeve.

How do I determine that it is plated? As opposed to ... just a bare metal
sleeve? What plating?

Are the common plastic-covered crimps (which, of course, will be used sans
plastic) plated? They seem to me to be made of softer metal that would lose
its strength when heated. How to tell if a particular crimp is suitable?

Thanks,
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[DaveC]

I would probably use a plated crimp sleeve. Overlap the two
wires through the whole crimp sleeve - which should be small
enough diameter to just take the wires. Double crimp the
sleeve onto the wires. Remove any plastic insulation from
the crimp sleeve, if fitted, before use.

This is what I used. Found plated crimps at local appliance "fix-it" shop.

Used short length of 14 ga solid copper wire between supply wire and nichrome
wire. Two crimps, one for supply-to-solid wire, one for solid
wire-to-nichrome.

Looks solid and works. Time will tell.

Thanks to all who contributed ideas.
--
Please, no "Go Google this" replies. I wouldn't
ask a question here if I hadn't done that already.

DaveC
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[Andrew Gabriel]

My toaster resurrection project

Need to (re)connect the nichrome wire to the insulated, stranded supply wire.
The existing (now overheated and useless, due to heat via bad connection)
connection is a rivet (stainless?) with the nichrome wrapped around the head,
and a brass (looking) crimp on the backside that accepts the supply wire.

Barring an original replacement item, what replacements would you recommend?
Most crimp ring terminals aren't brass. Should I use brass? A rivet would be
difficult to install here. Would a threaded fastener (nut & bolt) be
sufficient? Stainless?

I needed to repair a 1955 toaster element after someone stuck a
fork in to remove a piece of stuck toast. First time, I used a
small steel washer folded in half and effectively used as a crimp.
That repair lasted about 25 years before the nichrome wire burned
through at the edge of the washer (probably the contact got bad
and it locally overheated). I've recently repaired it again with a
tiny crimp cut off the end of a crimp connection washer, which I
suspect was brass. I scratched the nichrome wire clean where it
went into the crimp, but I don't know if that really makes any
long lasting difference.

If you're playing this game, think carefully what the consequences
of the join breaking are, and the nichrome wire contacting the case
metalwork. In a British earthed toaster, this is not much of a safety
issue, but I wouldn't dare do such a repair on a US toaster which is
likely not earthed anyway, and even if it is, the outlet might not be.

 

[Dimitrios Tzortzakakis]

why not brass and copper, many terminals for copper wire are made from
brass, and copper is widely used for connections