Sir dmccoyks . . . .
Indeed . . . . the specified 2011 switch given by our Right Honorable and Esteemed . . . .Tha fios agaibh . . . is being the proper one to use, as
your referenced unit was using a shaft collar that was geared to solder mounting to a PCB.
The use of your same type of threaded shaft is required.
Also that switch that
you initially referenced would have needed a jumper wire between the
YELLOW end terminal and the center terminal, since switch common is being at the
YELLOW end of the three terminals.
The Tha fios (I see) specified relay has the required center common terminal.
I have marked the blow up below to specify the
RED and
BLUE pairs of terminals that you would want to orient the switches N.O. contacts to, and use for each switch install.
FAILURE ANALYSIS:
In looking at my supplied bottom pic of the aspects of the control box . . . . .
Examining the stick on label of the control box, there is the high probability that the build of this unit ( with the adjunct visibility blocking effect upon the up down arrows) was altered from initially using the common supplied miniature hex nuts to mount the switches.
They modified it upwards by the use of a protective threaded metal sleeve / shroud to give aditional lateral impact protection to the switch shafts.
Somewhere in the lifetime of this unit . . .logically it being recent . . . their might have been an accident which led up to your end predicament.
Look at one of the left sides of one of those just mentioned protective sleeves and you can see impact dingy-dingies, where the whole system seems to have made hard contact with the concrete.
These lift units can use different base mounts so that the whole systen can be transferred between different vehicles. Possibly that somewhat weighty unit got dropped in one of those transfers ?
A caused secondary effect, I can see, would be the related hard pressure inwards on the two pushbuttons.
Look at my right bottom corner pic of the end of the switch portions of an old switch and you can see the 4 tang tabs that are pressed into divots recessed in the plastic molding to unite the plastic to the metal portions of the switch. I think that impact likely
splayed the tabs apart and loosened them.
Then you come along an give a firm to hefty press on the switch button and the loosened tangs then slip along the side of the plastic and separate from the plastic and leave the contacts loose and the compression spring of the switch shaft being unable to let the switch pop back.
Thereby . . .your final situation.
Back to the switch, I believe that the old switches and the proposed new switch units inter terminal solder lug spacings are being the same . . .Perhaps your acuity in visual measurment has declined from possibly discriminating between a presumed .125 in and an actual 5/32nds in.
If it indeed requires some hole alterations, looks like a mini rat tail jewelers / tool and die file is needed.
The reason for the NEC POWER RELAY data sheet is so that you can see its LIKE MANNER of utilization, as is being shown in the second pages top corner illustration. Your switches contacts are merely supplying the minute power needed for the coils at 2-3 or 6-7.
The actual POWER switching actions within the relay proper, will flip the polarity of the voltage being sent to the drive motor to switch direction, that differentiates between lift or lower action.
Looks like the hole plugs on the housing and the extra paths on the PCB also tell us that there is being another upgrade and a motor that provides a power rotation of the boom, fo people that might need that extra assistance. . . .OOOOMPH.
SUGGESTION . . . .
While you are at it why not fabricate a metal barrier as I have being shown on only one of the switches in
GREEN.
The switch screw on sleeves or separate screw sets can hold it down.
It is physically being about 3/4 " in width or greater and extends in its overall height as to be
ABOVE the end heights of the switch buttons. Round the corners off from having any sharp corners. Use 1/8 in thick steel or even thicker aluminum ( thus requiring the screws, since the thread length of the switch shafts would be inadequate.)
You then have a sacrifical barrier for your switches mechanical protection .
Photo Assists . . . .
73's de Edd
