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Fuse Cap identification

Hello,

I'm a complete newbie on here but have come across from a photographic forum.

I'm a professional photographer who still uses enlargers (basically a glorified projector) for hand printing Black and White prints.

During a recent studio move, the fuse cap off my Durst A707 enlarger's transformer disappeared along with it's fuse. The fuse is a 5mm x 20mm T10A 250V.

Fuses I have spares of but any idea of where I can find another fuse cap? Obviously, I would get a whole fuse holder assembly and just use the cap. This will save me dismantling the whole transformer and replacing the original fuse holder unit including desoldering and resoldering.

It has a bayonet fitting and seems to be a standard Durst thing as the ones off another Durst transformer fit perfectly.

As professional analogue photography has died somewhat in the past years due to digital, these bits of equipment are no longer manufactured nor supported, and parts are usually scavenged off dead machines or improvised.
I've tried going to a Electronics supply place and they have a more modern fitting (such as those found on my more modern Elinchrom flashes for example), but not the Durst bayonet style.

Been googling for days and can't seem to ID a replacement.

I'm posting on here on the off chance someone experience will be able to visually ID the piece.

There are so many different types of mountings out there, hard to know where to go...even a name.
Attached are some pics, (Yes, was a surprise to me too how dirty this one is, years of unattended use!)

Thanks in advance for any assistance!

_HWA2165_LR.JPG _HWA2168_LR.JPG _HWA2169_LR.JPG _HWA2170_LR.JPG _HWA2176_LR.JPG
 

Harald Kapp

Moderator
Moderator
Looks similar to this one.
But: Fuses are standardized, holders not. There's no guarantee this or any other cap fits your holder. I suggest you replace the complete holder. That ensures a match of cap to holder. Complete fuse holders are available at every electronics store. Check Mouser, Digikey, whatever is available to you (might help top know where you're located).
 
Thanks HK,

I'm in Australia and the electronics supplier I've gone to is called JAYCAR.

Online I tried RS and Element 14, but there's simply pages of choices.

I think ultimately, it's going to be a dismantle and replace part, but just a last try for the simplest solution...

It could very well be a discontinued style, but as I'm completely unfamiliar with these things, just wanted to check just in case it's some standard industry thing or some German/Euro part that Aussie suppliers not too familiar with.
 

Harald Kapp

Moderator
Moderator
Here are a few options:
Bussmann fuse holder (make sure to order the screwdriver knob type).
Misc. Panel mount fuse holders from RS.
Element 14 has a lot of panel mount fuse holders, too.

I recommend you swap the complete holder. Even if you find a replacement cap that seemingly fits, there is a risk that it doesn't fit snuggly. The contacts between cap and holder may then be insecure and during operation arcing may occur. This can be anything from a mere nuisance to a fire risk. You eliminate this risk by using matching cap and holder.
 

hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Replacing fuse sockets can be a royal PITA because of their usually tight location. I would suggest using Vice-Grip pliers to crush the fuse holder body (be sure to remove the fuse FIRST) and separate it and its attached wires from the remainder of the fuse holder. You can then remove the nut from what remains of the fuse holder still attached to the chassis, discarding both. Carefully un-solder the wires still attached to the crushed fuse-holder body. Mount the replacement fuse holder and tighten its nut. If the location makes it difficult to solder the original wires (from the transformer) to the fuse holder, attach "extension" wires to the fuse holder first, and splice these into the existing transformer leads, remembering to add some shrink tubing BEFORE adding the extension wires and splicing them into the transformer leads.

BTW, I really miss my Kodachrome slides, but that always required special photographic laboratory processing. Ektachrome and black-and-white film processing just doesn't compare, but it made for a nice hobby in the late 1950s. IIRC, at one time in New York City, Kodak had "life sized" backlit Kodachrome positive color transparencies on display in Grand Central Station. I never had the opportunity to see these in person, but do remember seeing them as background shots in movies. It's all done with light emitting diodes now... and in high-resolution, full-motion, color. That's progress, I guess, but it pretty much put Kodak out of the film business.
 
Thanks all for your help.

I'll attempt to take apart the transformer next week and have a look.

If it is too complex, I'll take it to a tech, who will do a better, and most importantly, a safer, job.

Thanks again all.

RE: Kodachrome, yes, it was a personal fave. I used it in 120 (medium format) and 35mm. Such beautiful colours, and longevity. Even now, the transparencies look as fresh as ever, whereas the Ektachromes, Agfacromes and Fujichromes (E-6 process) starting to change...
 
Just wanted to follow up and let you guys know the conclusion.

I'm following the advice here, but as I'm not so expert at these sort of things (soldering and tinkering with the insides of a 240V transformer) I am getting a "friend" to do it.

A case of beer and a similar sort of plug to be provided (cheap so I'm buying 3-4 just in case this happens again!).

Thanks for all the advice everyone.
 
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