Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Electric Ducted Fan Powered Longboard Help Please!

The batteries will not be permanently wired in parallel. At least one charger is needed.
You would essentially just have a Y-Cable on the longboard that lets you connect more than one battery. When done, the batteries are removed and charged individually.
The charger and batteries you have will have the power terminals and 'sense' wires used to balance the cells inside them. The sense wires are ignored while you use them, but must be used when you charge them.
I'm sure it's possible to charge them in parallel as well, but I admit to not knowing exactly how the sense wires are connected internally, so I can't suggest the modifications required to actually do so.
The amount of chargers you use is entirely up to you . You can have 1 or 9, just so long as you charge each battery individually.
Okay, The sense wires are those small molex looking ones with the white connectors right?
 
So, Its been a week or so, I've come across a neat little kit which I think will be pretty useful and upon further investigation, found this motor to go with it, What do you with - Would it work with the batteries I chose?

System
Motor

Or Do I go for one of these?
Good find.
Those are 3 different products though.
The 'system' is just the mechanical drive system and has no wheel, motors, controllers etc.

The motor is just the motor and nothing else... You can find equivalent from any other site.
The third link is just a kit with a motor, battery, charger, and ESC.

It's up to you what you go with, but for this type of setup you need:
- Battery
- Charger
- Motor
- ESC
- <Control System>

The control system will require a little imagination. The 'ESC' is the motor driver and expects a PWM signal to control the motor. I suggested a 2-Channel Receiver and a Transmitter above because that will take care of the wireless link from your hand to board *and* generate the PWM for the motor controller (ESC).
If you really wanted, you could put pressure sensitive pads on the board so it goes faster when you lean forward and slower when you lean back.. the PWM signal would be generated by a microcontroller.
The control system is anything you want it to be as long as it can generate the proper signal for the motor controller.
 
Good find.
Those are 3 different products though.
The 'system' is just the mechanical drive system and has no wheel, motors, controllers etc.

The motor is just the motor and nothing else... You can find equivalent from any other site.
The third link is just a kit with a motor, battery, charger, and ESC.

It's up to you what you go with, but for this type of setup you need:
- Battery
- Charger
- Motor
- ESC
- <Control System>

The control system will require a little imagination. The 'ESC' is the motor driver and expects a PWM signal to control the motor. I suggested a 2-Channel Receiver and a Transmitter above because that will take care of the wireless link from your hand to board *and* generate the PWM for the motor controller (ESC).
If you really wanted, you could put pressure sensitive pads on the board so it goes faster when you lean forward and slower when you lean back.. the PWM signal would be generated by a microcontroller.
The control system is anything you want it to be as long as it can generate the proper signal for the motor controller.
Yes, Sorry I should have explained my Self more, I was in a rush. What I meant was, would that motor work with my batteries or Not as it is more powerful and Then I was going on to say, I found that motor bracket that saves me a lot of work then, finally I meant, Was getting that kit going to be easier as they are all compatible or Should I still and buy my own parts?

Also, They do Dual motor kits, but I think I'll stick with one. It may give better traction though
 
Last edited:
Yes, Sorry I should have explained my Self more, I was in a rush. What I meant was, would that motor work with my batteries or Not as it is more powerful and Then I was going on to say, I found that motor bracket that saves me a lot of work then, finally I meant, Was getting that kit going to be easier as they are all compatible or Should I still and buy my own parts?

Also, They do Dual motor kits, but I think I'll stick with one. It may give better traction though
Well.. when you did a search for your own parts, you found a battery and ESC capable of delivering 100A, and the motor from the 'kit' draws 60A.
You've got room to spare. You can purchase what you want.
As far compatibility is concerned. Take a look at the bracket in the kit, and make note of the engine specs... The number they give you (like 5060) is simply measurements of the motor. If you can find a motor elsewhere with the same diameter, you should be fine.

What you need to ensure is the battery output.
They are usually marked with a constant and/or peak discharge rate. 25C, means the battery can output 25 times it's capacity... so a 5,000mAh battery could put out 125 Amps. The wording may be funny, but when they talk about charging and discharging rates, the 'C' value is the number in mAh * the number in C.
The ESC of course is easy to match. Just find something capable of handling the current draw of the motor. The brushless DC motors will all have 3 wires, and the ESCs will output to those 3 leads. Unless it's some oddball proprietary thing.
Same thing with the controller... the PWM signal that goes to the ESC is pretty standard. There *is* a lesser standard called 'one-shot pwm' , but that is typically for added performance for things like quad-copters where the response time is kept as low as possible.
 
Well.. when you did a search for your own parts, you found a battery and ESC capable of delivering 100A, and the motor from the 'kit' draws 60A.
You've got room to spare. You can purchase what you want.
As far compatibility is concerned. Take a look at the bracket in the kit, and make note of the engine specs... The number they give you (like 5060) is simply measurements of the motor. If you can find a motor elsewhere with the same diameter, you should be fine.

What you need to ensure is the battery output.
They are usually marked with a constant and/or peak discharge rate. 25C, means the battery can output 25 times it's capacity... so a 5,000mAh battery could put out 125 Amps. The wording may be funny, but when they talk about charging and discharging rates, the 'C' value is the number in mAh * the number in C.
The ESC of course is easy to match. Just find something capable of handling the current draw of the motor. The brushless DC motors will all have 3 wires, and the ESCs will output to those 3 leads. Unless it's some oddball proprietary thing.
Same thing with the controller... the PWM signal that goes to the ESC is pretty standard. There *is* a lesser standard called 'one-shot pwm' , but that is typically for added performance for things like quad-copters where the response time is kept as low as possible.
Okay, Thanks
 
Okay, Thanks
I forgot to commend on the 'dual-motor' setup.
This is your personal preference. This will increase the overall current draw, but will also give you more torque.
Depending on how the motor is geared to the wheel, this could translate into higher speeds quite easily, or simply more 'oomf' to get you going.
Again. Personal preference here though. Many of the parts will be inter-hangable. So if you do a dual motor setup, you could run with one... if it's not what you expect, you could buy a more capable motor, or a second one to complete the dual setup.
Alternatively, you could also completely cheap out on the ESC and motor and if they under-perform based on your expectations, then you lost maybe $20-$30 for a cheap chinese motor/ESC pair that you could use for another project (as long as you didn't damage it)
 
Hi Doug,


I came across your question. I thought you might be interested to know that I have been developing various ways of propelling myself on skates – including an EDF ‘jetpack’.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlR-BzxgCAw

Here’s the write up I posted back then.
“This Jet back pack has 2 EfliteDeltaV32 electric ducted fans, powered by 2 x 29 Volt 10AH lithium battery packs (from an electric bike), a modified Scalectrix throttle controller interfaced through a PIC microcontroller to 2 x Castle Creations ICE75 Electronic Speed controllers.
This measured at nearly 3KW of power and a theoretical 10Lbs of thrust.
Unfortunately, this way over stressed the battery pack and the battery protection circuits kept cutting in, killing the motors. I guess taking close on 50A from batteries expecting 10A was pushing it a bit!
It didn't have quite the push I was expecting and merely kept me going at whatever speed I got to by skating. I think that it would take about twice this power to give some really useful thrust. I need some bigger fans and batteries that can deliver more current to make this work.
The scream of those motors is quite terrifying.
Anyway, I've now got a great leaf blower!”

I’ve posted other attempts at directly powering the wheels of my skates in other videos. The last attempt was successful, but a bit too powerful and kept wanting to throw my over backwards. My main aim now is to allow any skate to be retrofitted with a motor drive, to get that power under control and to make it lighter.

If you’re still serious, I can direct you to the right ways of doing this, but if you persevere with EDF fans you will end up with a VERY noisy, very inefficient system.

It’s just so much better to drive the wheels directly.

Richard.
 
Hi Doug,


I came across your question. I thought you might be interested to know that I have been developing various ways of propelling myself on skates – including an EDF ‘jetpack’.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlR-BzxgCAw

Here’s the write up I posted back then.
“This Jet back pack has 2 EfliteDeltaV32 electric ducted fans, powered by 2 x 29 Volt 10AH lithium battery packs (from an electric bike), a modified Scalectrix throttle controller interfaced through a PIC microcontroller to 2 x Castle Creations ICE75 Electronic Speed controllers.
This measured at nearly 3KW of power and a theoretical 10Lbs of thrust.
Unfortunately, this way over stressed the battery pack and the battery protection circuits kept cutting in, killing the motors. I guess taking close on 50A from batteries expecting 10A was pushing it a bit!
It didn't have quite the push I was expecting and merely kept me going at whatever speed I got to by skating. I think that it would take about twice this power to give some really useful thrust. I need some bigger fans and batteries that can deliver more current to make this work.
The scream of those motors is quite terrifying.
Anyway, I've now got a great leaf blower!”

I’ve posted other attempts at directly powering the wheels of my skates in other videos. The last attempt was successful, but a bit too powerful and kept wanting to throw my over backwards. My main aim now is to allow any skate to be retrofitted with a motor drive, to get that power under control and to make it lighter.

If you’re still serious, I can direct you to the right ways of doing this, but if you persevere with EDF fans you will end up with a VERY noisy, very inefficient system.

It’s just so much better to drive the wheels directly.

Richard.
Sorry for the late reply.

I'd love help with a direct drive system so much! I've decided to go for Direct drive as I saw the inefficiency of the EDFs just after I posted this, and over these weeks, I've learnt quite a lot from people here!

If I could private message you about this tomorrow, I'd love to.

Thanks,
Doug
 
Top