Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Denon AVR-1912 E2/EA

In the event that TR16 is fried I tried sourcing a replacement. The only place I could find was in Hong Kong but there's an Escrow means of payment with a minimum of $10 + 5% of the cost. Is there an alternative to 2SA1954 by Toshiba? There's a 2SA1954-B but that's got too many pins. Michael Studio1 UK 13:57BST 24-05-2018
 
Last edited by a moderator:
When you say "get a monitor hooked up asap." you mean a monitor speaker?..By 'onscreen menus' do you mean what shows up on the screen on the front of the AVR?
No, a TV monitor. This thing is like a computer and I think you should look at what the AVR is telling you when it sends a message to the TV display.

We may be looking for signals on the boards when software conditions might be a prerequisite to getting those signals.
 
I thought you were originally saying that you didn't have the SWM5v rail? That was the whole reason for looking at CPU power, Tr16, etc.

Other than the high voltages, what else don't you have?

Have you verified that all connections are made and no cables are loose?

Btw, you only need to state voltages to the nearest 1/10th. Instead of 6.163v, just say 6.2v.
 
No, a TV monitor. This thing is like a computer and I think you should look at what the AVR is telling you when it sends a message to the TV display.

We may be looking for signals on the boards when software conditions might be a prerequisite to getting those signals.
A T/v monitor. The only one I have available is a small analog type with a Scart socket. Will that do?
I thought you were originally saying that you didn't have the SWM5v rail? That was the whole reason for looking at CPU power, Tr16, etc.

Other than the high voltages, what else don't you have?

Have you verified that all connections are made and no cables are loose?

Btw, you only need to state voltages to the nearest 1/10th. Instead of 6.163v, just say 6.2v.
OK, John, Thanks. ALL the internal connectors are connected. So why the high readings at SWM5V. and SWM3.3V. I wonder? The signal tones get as far as IC30 and have been traced to pin1 and pin2.

Thanks John. The Signal Tones are getting as far as pin1 and pin2 of IC30. The power on IC30 at pin 6&7 is 5.1V. As for a T/V monitor I only have a small analog colour T/v with Scart socket - will that do? All connections are made, no loose cables. As for what else I don't have well, I'm not sure if I have the equipment to trace the digital signal through to the DAC. I just have that pocket-size Oscilloscope (which I need to learn how to use) but am not sure whether it will do the job of tracing the digital signal. Michael Studio1 UK
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I thought you were originally saying that you didn't have the SWM5v rail?
Yes,No?
If not, my abject apologies for sending you off on a tangent.

(Big heavy sigh) Looks like your back to looking at voltage supplies.
Swm3.3v should be regulated by IC2 on page 117 although it should only have 5v on Vin.
So ignore that for now, and find out why "standby power" (which goes on to feed SWM5v) is reading 8.8v instead of 5v.
It looks like standby power originates as D5.2v on the SMPS B'D.
See CX1 pins 4,5 on same page.
 
Signal Tones are getting as far as pin1 and pin2 of IC30. The power on IC30 at pin 6&7 is 5.1V. As for a T/V monitor I only have a small analog colour T/v with Scart socket - will that do?
Id forget signal tones until power supplies have been verified as good. Be careful that you are using the proper reference point when reading voltages. Also might want to verify your meter readings on a known voltage.

I'm not sure what cables you should use, but that single RCA jack on the back panel looks like an analog output to me. You'd better reference the manual for that.

I know you limies have strange tv formats and do things like drive on the wrong side of the road.
Lol
 
SMPS on Page 109.
If your still reading ~8.8v with respect to dgnd (where it should be 5.2v), I suspect either ZD114 zener diode or IC116 regulator may be toast.
If that's where we're at, unsolder one leg of ZD114 and recheck the voltage.
 
Id forget signal tones until power supplies have been verified as good. Be careful that you are using the proper reference point when reading voltages. Also might want to verify your meter readings on a known voltage.

I'm not sure what cables you should use, but that single RCA jack on the back panel looks like an analog output to me. You'd better reference the manual for that.

I know you limies have strange tv formats and do things like drive on the wrong side of the road.
Lol
Thanks, John. As for 'Limes' - Royal Navy protection against scurvy - we have a small lime tree growing on our patio. T/v formats? I'm thinking this small T/v will not pick up the current digital signals on its antenna input, but should be able to connect to the AVR - being the younger of the two devices. The RCA (or Phono) jack you're talking about is probably the Monitor (OUT) jack - which I should be able to connect to that small T/v via the Scart socket. I must rummage for a suitable adaptor. AND - Power. Thanks for the timely reminder about 'using the proper reference point when reading voltages' All the Voltages I have been quoting are referenced to AGND. There is (apart from Chassis GND) another GND point - 'High GND' I must study the Cct Diags to ensure I am using the right GND!! My reference to the L&R Signal Tones was to let you know the progress I'm having here on the Bench. But I see we have gone on another tack (as the Sailing fraternity say) and concentrate on Power Ccts. Michael Studio1 UK 06:32BST 25-05-2018 (only 7 months to Xmas!)
 
SMPS on Page 109.
If your still reading ~8.8v with respect to dgnd (where it should be 5.2v), I suspect either ZD114 zener diode or IC116 regulator may be toast.
If that's where we're at, unsolder one leg of ZD114 and recheck the voltage.
Thanks, John. I've just found the Scart plug with a BNC plug at the other end and also a BNC/Phono (male) adaptor. More importantly though is this business of Power Ccts. You mention DGND. I haven't yet found that. When I do I shall attach a 'test-tail' to it. Therefore I am going to concentrate on the various Power Supplies to ensure I have the correct GND to reference to. Then I shall re-check the SWM5V and SWM3.3V rails. Michael Studio1 UK 10:27BST 25-05-2018
 
SMPS on Page 109.
If your still reading ~8.8v with respect to dgnd (where it should be 5.2v), I suspect either ZD114 zener diode or IC116 regulator may be toast.
If that's where we're at, unsolder one leg of ZD114 and recheck the voltage.
__________________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks, John, for an amazing revelation! It's all to do with using the CORRECT GND.!!! Now, having soldered a Test-Tail to DGND on CX1 pin3 on the SWMP_B'D we are getting a different answer at CN5 pin17 = 3.3V. and pin18 = 5.2V. So - that's where I was going wrong! In short, how can I conclude the correct GND reference? No 'toast' today! (yet) Michael Studio1 UK 13:15BST 25-05-2018
 
That's great. Just a matter of looking at the print from the perspective of what your trying to power up.
So if you get that monitor hooked up, it may lend some insight as to making sure this thing is set-up properly.

So, all is well with the power supply world now?
 
HERE is a plenary of pinnery test results: CP13A pin6 = -7.8V pin7 = +8.2V CN14 pin15 = +6.9V Ribbon CX4 pin3 ref DGND = 3.3V pin4 = +8.2V pin5 = -7.8V CN103 pin6 = +8.2V pin7 = -7.8V CN104 pin6 ref DGND = 3.2V CN5 pin2 ref DGND = 3.3V pin9/10 = -7.8V pin11/12 = +8.2V pin16/17 ref DGND = 3.3V pin18/19 = 5.2V CN3 pin6/7 ref AGND = 5.1V CP14 pin 14/15 = 6.9V CN13A pin6 = -7.8V pin7 = +8.2V. That's it - so far. I don't think this 'reply area' allows for making columns - it jumbles them all up for the recipient - so I haven't tried. Now on to the T/v (Monitor) Apart from stick it on the bench and fire it up + find all the connectors I've done nothing yet. Don't hold your breath - but Voltage-wise things seem to be looking good - thanks for all the help . . . . . Michael Studio1 UK 16:23BST 25-05-2018
 
Last edited by a moderator:
No, and honestly it's not that helpful.
Just state the page your looking at and what you think is a problem. Do take notes for yourself, but to list everything here just confuses the reader.
Well, I simply said what Voltages I was getting and where - so you could envisage the progress. At least we have Voltages! I have attached the 14" CTV but it isn't picking up anything from the AVR. All the signs are that it should if there was something at the 'MONITOR' phono jack. That jack is coloured yellow - which indicates it's at least the right colour! Do you know whether the AVR has an in-built T/v signal that it can put out for testing? Michael Studio1

P.S. I'm sorry if I'm confusing my Readers!
But it's really me who is confused! I simply don't know how to progress this AVR to a working situation. i.e. what's the next step? Michael Studio1 UK 19:40BST 25-05-2018.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OK. We've just established that the 14" T/v doesn't do the job - we've moved the AVR to the domestic T/v and connected it up. The domestic T/v is showing the Denon's 6 Point 'SETUP WIZARD' so - they're interacting and we're getting closer to getting the show on the road. Michael Studio1 UK 20:35:BST 25-05-2018
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The domestic T/v is showing the Denon's 6 Point 'SETUP WIZARD' so - they're interacting and we're getting closer to getting the show on the road.
Yay Michael!
Hopefully the set up will help diagnose some problems. If nothing else, it will indicate that its set-up properly.

Confusing may not be the best word choice here. Perhaps overwhelmed would be better? (maybe not)
It just seems like a sea of numbers when written into a long paragraph. Your doing great, but lets stick to specifically where you see something wrong, or ask a question.
All the good measurements just seem superfluous.

If your content with your voltage test points and you've walked through all the set-up screens, you could go back and see if you get any analog audio through to the speakers.

Like I was saying before, I believe IC801 is capable of directly routing analog audio through to the amp without converting the signal to digital.

If still nothing, go back to the point where you lost the audio signal.
 
Yay Michael!
Hopefully the set up will help diagnose some problems. If nothing else, it will indicate that its set-up properly.

Confusing may not be the best word choice here. Perhaps overwhelmed would be better? (maybe not)
It just seems like a sea of numbers when written into a long paragraph. Your doing great, but lets stick to specifically where you see something wrong, or ask a question.
All the good measurements just seem superfluous.

If your content with your voltage test points and you've walked through all the set-up screens, you could go back and see if you get any analog audio through to the speakers.

Like I was saying before, I believe IC801 is capable of directly routing analog audio through to the amp without converting the signal to digital.

If still nothing, go back to the point where you lost the audio signal.
Thank you, John, for you help - as ever to the point and informative. That 'sea of numbers,untabulated, means nothing to me either! - I was asking for confirmation that the Voltages I see at those various test points are correct - for I may inadvertently been applying the wrong reference GND to any of them. To be able to form a grid of those measurements would certainly be tidier! Our T/V test was taken with an HDMI cable from the HDMI MONITOR ARC OUT' jack. We see nothing from the yellow phono jack 'MONITOR OUT' with the analog T/V However - back to the problem: Signal Tone tracing. The last point the signal is traced to is pins1&2 of IC30 page130. But I do seem to remember those signals taking some other divergent path through IC801 and must verify this in my notes. I didn't question that the IC801 was the switcher but only in digital - maybe I should do. That those Tones go, by default, to FR and FL when the AVR is initially turned on (pre-supposing that was the setting when it was turned off), would seem to indicate an analog routing 'by default' - and that's where it gets lost. I will investigate! Michael Studio1 UK 07:32BST 26-05-2018
 
When time allows, I'll take another look.
In the meantime, I've got some projects of my own to tackle.

This may be nothing, but you might want to look at is relay2 in the speaker section. If it's in mute mode obviously it'll inhibit the output. What drives this relay is called several things along the way...relayF, FrontRL, etc. It would be a good sign it it was enabling this relay.

Regards, John
 
Top