Update time: New transformer received:
bushtech Nov 5, 2017 #43 Yep, it's a little monster. Hope it doesn't tear a hole through my plastic case a la Fukushima!
bushtech Nov 7, 2017 #45 Update: Tricky insertion of Diode D13. Big thanks to Paulv here: Don't think I could have figured it out without his help http://www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2015/05/tuning-030v-dc-with-03a-psu-diy-kit.html
Update: Tricky insertion of Diode D13. Big thanks to Paulv here: Don't think I could have figured it out without his help http://www.paulvdiyblogs.net/2015/05/tuning-030v-dc-with-03a-psu-diy-kit.html
bushtech Nov 7, 2017 #47 Update: Installation of RV3: Have I interpreted the wiring at the pot correctly?
Audioguru Nov 7, 2017 #48 Paul's schematic does not have RV3 so which schematic are you using? Your long green wire for C10 is different to what Paul did.
Paul's schematic does not have RV3 so which schematic are you using? Your long green wire for C10 is different to what Paul did.
bushtech Nov 8, 2017 #49 Audioguru: I am building to your Rev 6 design as per first post on this thread.
bushtech Nov 8, 2017 #50 Audioguru: Correct. Paulv: C10 connects between D13 and Q3/R19 Your Rev 6: C10 connects between R19 and U3
Audioguru: Correct. Paulv: C10 connects between D13 and Q3/R19 Your Rev 6: C10 connects between R19 and U3
Audioguru Nov 9, 2017 #52 Your wires for RV2 are much too long and will act like antennas that might make the opamp pickup hum and other interference.
Your wires for RV2 are much too long and will act like antennas that might make the opamp pickup hum and other interference.
Audioguru Nov 9, 2017 #54 I think that RV2 and RV3 should be mounted on the top or bottom if the board with very short wires or a new pcb should be used that has them included.
I think that RV2 and RV3 should be mounted on the top or bottom if the board with very short wires or a new pcb should be used that has them included.
bushtech Nov 14, 2017 #56 Update: Progress on heatsink with 2 x 2N3055(insulated), BD139, LM7812, bridge rectifier and thermocouple for fan. Crowded?? Nah! Bridge rectifier is 6A 50V, bit on the low side, but all that I could get now.
Update: Progress on heatsink with 2 x 2N3055(insulated), BD139, LM7812, bridge rectifier and thermocouple for fan. Crowded?? Nah! Bridge rectifier is 6A 50V, bit on the low side, but all that I could get now.
Audioguru Nov 14, 2017 #57 I hope your heatsink has fins because usually the driver transistor and bridge rectifier have their own heatsinks. I am glad that you are using a fan.
I hope your heatsink has fins because usually the driver transistor and bridge rectifier have their own heatsinks. I am glad that you are using a fan.
Audioguru Nov 15, 2017 #59 You might need a high power and noisy "leaf blower" to cool that little heatsink.
bushtech Nov 15, 2017 #60 lol. I am planning on doing a boxing a la car radiator. If it doesn't work I'll have to get a bigger one. Roughly how big should it be? Thanks for your guidance. I am a babe in the woods here.
lol. I am planning on doing a boxing a la car radiator. If it doesn't work I'll have to get a bigger one. Roughly how big should it be? Thanks for your guidance. I am a babe in the woods here.